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Factory oil filters vs. After Market oil filters ![]()

100 messages, Last post on Feb 13, 2001 at 5:48 AM
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| I wonder if an assumption can be made for Toyota filters also? Especially for the Toy cars built in America? I was just planning to bid on a case of EM filters on bay! Awl Mart (and Moil One ) here I come. | |
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| THat should be OEM, Ebay, WalMart and Mobil One in the above. Watch out for that spell checker! | |
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I have used FRAM oil filters for years with no trouble. My 85 Jetta had 186K when I sold in '90. Our '89 Mazda MPV had 155K when we sold it in '97. My '95 Dodge Stratus had 92K when I traded it with private owner's 96 Toyota Camry. I truely feel that buying expensive oil filters and synthetic oil is just increasing your operating costs. UNLESS your car manufacturer calls for synthetic oil, Just change your oil/oil filter every 3000 miles or 3 months, and let your engine warm up before driving off. I sold my high mile cars becauseI got tired of them, and not because they ever gave me any troubles. |
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I continue to say if you change your oil and filter every 3,000 miles you can use the least expensive piece of crap off of the shelf (oil and filter) and your car will get 100,000-200,000 miles. Now, if you want the same engine life or better then use synthetics with a premium filter and change it every 7,500-10,000 miles. Works for me over the past 9 years on currently 5 cars. Hassle is more of a concern then getting under the car or bringing it in every 3,000 miles. Much less hassle with synthetics, especially with 5 cars |
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| Just cut apart a factory Toyota oil filter and it appears it is a Purolator Pure One cartridge with a plastic bypass valve. Overall quality seems good. Pure One filter for about $2 less. Only difference was the bypass valve and the plastic one seemed to work well. | |
| On my 92 Toyota Camry V6 I used OEM filters for first several oil changes as Amsoil did not have one fitting it at the time. Since I switched to Amsoil filters several years ago (I get oil analysis at least once a year) the wear and dirt particles definitely appear to be less at the same mileage then with the Toyota OEM filter. However, on another car I use the Pure One filter as it is only one I can find, has been working great and analysis great. I have found that Toyota air filters do a better job then the after market ones as do brake pads and most other components. The only after market part that seems to do better are the oil filters. | |
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Here's an idea so obvious we shouldve thought of it years ago! A GREAT way to increase life of an engine is probably the simplest and cheapest thing you can imagine! Okay, go to your fridge. Grab one of those magnets that's flexible and is magnetic over the entire back, and go stick it on your oil filter!!! Put some tape on it to make sure it stays there, and VOILA! Most of the particles that collect in these things are metal from your engine, so having a magnet somewhere in there will suck em to the side! try it! |
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| Has it been tested to show its effectiveness?? Furthermore, I'm guessing that the bulk of wear particles may not be magnetic material. Also the filter medium should be effective enough that particles in the size range of greater than 15 microns or so are filtered out. Smaller ones don't appreciably contribute to engine wear. Good origional thinking though. Hats off to you. | |
| I own a 95 Infinity J30t with 60,000 miles. After hard driving, I notice a oil burning smell coming from the engine. I believe it is coming from the oil filter but their is no visible evidence. The reason I say this is when I use a Fram Filter their is no smell. But when I have a lube place change my oil, I smell it. Has anyone else had this problem? | |
| I would wonder if the lube place is actually using the right filter. Some places will use generic filters and not all of them actually work to manufacturer's specification in some applications. Look at the filter brand and number and then check it out. I always specify the filter or give them the filter if they won't handle it. | |
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