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Subaru Crew - Modifications II

5330 messages,  Last post on Nov 13, 2007 at 7:31 AM

You are in the Subaru Crew Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Subaru Impreza, Subaru Outback, Subaru, Subaru Legacy, Subaru Baja, Subaru Forester

Your Community Leaders are ateixeira and rsholland.

#5271 of 5330 Re: Brake Pads [hondafriek] by ateixeira Jul 28, 2006 (10:20 am)
Replying to: hondafriek (Jul 27, 2006 4:54 pm) OK, glad I asked. Picked up a set of OE replacements last night.   I also got one of those hand pump brake bleeder kits, as suggested on that same site.   Question, though, I saw instructions to bleed the brakes, but not to change pads. Am I blind, or do such instructions not exist?   For the caliper, do I remove the top bolt or the bottom bolt, to tilt it away?   -juice Replies to this message: lucien2 (Jul 28, 2006 10:45 am)
#5272 of 5330 Re: Brake Pads [ateixeira] by lucien2 Jul 28, 2006 (10:45 am)
Replying to: ateixeira (Jul 28, 2006 10:20 am) It's in the Legacy section, Juice.
#5273 of 5330 Found 'em by ateixeira Jul 28, 2006 (6:17 pm)
Though they're a bit different on the Forester, they still served as a guide.   Trouble I had was it was *filthy*. 9 years of brake dust and surface rust. Yuck.   The bolts on the Forester are 17mm, rather than 14 as on the instructions. They were stiff but my torque wrench is long and gave me enough leverage to get them out.   Had to tap the calipers out with a rubber hammer. The Miata was so much easier. Just one piston to push back in, plus you can remove just one bolt and tilt the caliper out of the way and still get it done.   Another hard part was pushing the pistons back in and getting the new pads in straight. One piston was stubborn towards the end, didn't want to go all the way in. I finally got them all the way in and struggled them back over the rotors, which had some rust at the edges (sanded that off some).   The 2nd side (passenger side) was much easier for some reason, maybe because I had experience with the other side.   Still didn't bleed them, but ran out of daylight so I'm doing that tomorrow.   -juice Replies to this message: hondafriek (Aug 04, 2006 1:54 pm) rangner (Aug 06, 2006 5:36 pm) hondafriek (Aug 11, 2006 2:14 pm) ateixeira (Aug 07, 2006 12:57 pm)
#5274 of 5330 Starter Motor replacement by amsbear Jul 31, 2006 (9:11 am)
Success!!!   I decided that replacing it myself was the practical thing to do. The dealer wanted approx. $270 for the starter plus an hour of labor which would push this up to nearly $400. The part at the local auto parts store cost me $85 plus a $30 core charge (refundable upon return of old part).   This replacement was technically easy but physically a bit tough since access to the bolts and starter itself is lousy. There are only two mounting bolts plus the power connectors. With the car up on ramps, I was able to remove the nut from the lower mounting bolt with a socket wrench plus extensions. Space is limited there allowing only 1/4 turns of the wrench, but once it loosened I was able to take it the rest of the way off by hand.   Now the top bolt was a different story! Getting to that bugger meant getting the wrench in place, snaking past coolant lines, avoiding fuel filter, throttle body, and other plumbing. This allowed for such little movement of the wrench and a poor angle for any leverage on a bolt that has been solidly in place for 8 years. Once I got it going and started backing the bolt out, I couldn't believe it. That bolt must be over 6 inches long, and it took forever to remove. The ratchet would travel for just one click before I ran out of room.... talk about a slow process. The bolt loosened enough eventually for some hand removal, but my knuckles are scraped and forearms bruised.   So, removal took me 1.5 hours with some breaks and head scrathing.   Install of the new one was a breeze by comparison, since I learned a bit during the dismantle phase and the engine was cooler. That took 1 hour including cleanup.   End result, my car cranks strongly and starts nicely. Plus a little boost in pride that I can perform some maintenance that may fall a bit outside the usual DIY category.   Thanks to Wes for your help and advice.   Alan 98 OBW Ltd Replies to this message: subi4obs (Jul 31, 2006 8:08 pm) jfl (Jul 31, 2006 8:32 pm)
#5275 of 5330 Re: Starter Motor replacement [amsbear] by subi4obs Jul 31, 2006 (8:08 pm)
Replying to: amsbear (Jul 31, 2006 9:11 am) Did it feel like over $100 of work? I think I'd probably had done like you did, bought the starter myself (dang! $270 for a starter!!), but then taken it to someone who'd be able to do it for $100 to $150, still saving lotsa $$$. Last time I changed out a starter was on a 1969 Toyota, no trouble at all. I'm unwilling to try a sparkplug change on my Impreza OBS! Although I was still doing that kinda stuff on my GMC truck and other vehicles before. Replies to this message: jfl (Jul 31, 2006 8:32 pm)
#5276 of 5330 Re: Starter Motor replacement [subi4obs] by jfl Jul 31, 2006 (8:32 pm)
Replying to: subi4obs (Jul 31, 2006 8:08 pm) For me, the hardest part of changing spark plugs is removing the spark plug boot (but only the first time)! I always use dielectric grease to make future changes easier.   Jim
#5277 of 5330 Re: Found 'em [ateixeira] by hondafriek Aug 04, 2006 (1:54 pm)
Replying to: ateixeira (Jul 28, 2006 6:17 pm) juice, I don't know why you would want to bleed the brakes, unless changing fluid or you have air in the system bleeding the brakes is not necessary. I did not see you saying you had serviced the caliper sliders, if you didn't you should have, they eventually seize up and should be cleaned and greased at every brake service.     Cheers Pat. Replies to this message: rangner (Aug 06, 2006 5:36 pm) hondafriek (Aug 11, 2006 2:14 pm) ateixeira (Aug 07, 2006 12:57 pm)
#5278 of 5330 Re: Found 'em [hondafriek] by rangner Aug 06, 2006 (5:36 pm)
Replying to: hondafriek (Aug 04, 2006 1:54 pm) What about greasing the piston boot? I've never done it when servicing the brakes but the service manual says to push out the caliper piston with compressed air through the caliper body and lube the boot with the same grease that you use for the sliders. Nigilube or something IIRC.   Eric Replies to this message: hondafriek (Aug 11, 2006 2:14 pm)
#5279 of 5330 Re: Found 'em [hondafriek] by ateixeira Aug 07, 2006 (12:57 pm)
Replying to: hondafriek (Aug 04, 2006 1:54 pm) The fluid was a bit dark in color, not brown but not light yellow either. It was not original - they replaced my brake master cylinder in a recall in 2000, but that means the fluid was 6 years old already.   I'm not sure I understand your terminology, but I did use high-temp brake grease on the two sliders that line up the two halves that make up the caliper, is that what you meant? I had to take the little rubber boot off one side, took it apart, and then greased them before putting them back together.   Sound about right?   -juice
#5280 of 5330 Now, dad's brakes by ateixeira Aug 07, 2006 (12:59 pm)
01 Outback this time, fronts were done no problem.   Rears were tough. The suspension bits in the rear get in the way and I did not have the right extensions to get the lower bolt off the caliper to get it out.   Tool suggestions? Do I just need a long ratchet extension? How long?   Or is access easier from the side, with a closed-ended wrench that has a slight angle to it?   Another question - the end links - to remove those do you need tools on both sides? I turn one side and it does not loosen or tighthen, the bolt just turns with the nut.   I can't express how many things are easier on the Forester vs. the Legacy. Even the stereo. OK, the spark plugs are easier on the Legacy, but that's it.   -juice Replies to this message: hondafriek (Aug 11, 2006 2:18 pm) ateixeira (Aug 21, 2006 11:13 am)

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