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Dodge Dakota - FAQs

241 messages,  Last post on Dec 31, 2007 at 3:13 PM

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#51 of 241 Heater Cores and Rough Idles by ohc_baby Oct 02, 2000 (3:14 am)
A quick comment to the rough idles in the V-6 - it IS internally counterbalanced, and twice for good measure (not really, but it does have 2 counterbalance shafts) just the same as the 318 and 360. If it shakes, then it's something else. They're really quite smooth for a V6.   As far as heater cores go, they seem to be streaky. on the DML (www.dakota-truck.net) a couple of members have had real problems with the cores, losing 2 or 3 in the truck's life so far. The concensus has been that the plastic cores are not reinstalled carefully. If it gives you problems afterward, discuss an aluminum core and see if your dealer will go for it. It's a HUGE pain in the rear to swap a core, and they might be willing to put in an aluminum unit to get you out of their hair after one or two fudged installs. BTW, check out the DML, it's a wonderful resource and a lot of fun
#52 of 241 fat-fenders(mobil 1 filter) by cmick Oct 12, 2000 (8:34 pm)
themacguy is right about the oil filters. I have a '00 club cab slt with the 4.7 and 4 wheel drive. I used to use nothing but Fram but they're not what they used to be. The mobil 1 is a bit more expensive (about $9 at autozone) but I love my truck and I think it's worth it.
#53 of 241 muffler exchange-still looking by bpeebles Oct 17, 2000 (12:00 am)
(moparpower1) Check out the SPINTECH muffler. It uses a new technology to take the 'sting' out of the exhaust note while keeping the SOUND. http://www.spintechmufflers.com/spintech/index.asp
#54 of 241 Increasing "Homelink" (built-in garage door opener) Range by skylerk Nov 14, 2000 (8:32 am)
While trying to figure out why the "Homelink" garage door opener built-in to my 2001 Dakota would only work from 30 feet away, I submitted a request for info via the Johnson Controls web site at http://homelink.jci.com. They responded via e-mail with the suggestions below. I only needed to do #1 and #4 and my range increased to about 150 feet. 1. Put a new battery in your hand-held remote. Training the HomeLink takes more power from the battery than when you push the button to open the door. Sometimes by putting a new battery in the hand-held remote, it does help pick up a better train and increases the range. 2. Retrain the HomeLink at different lengths and angles. Start by holding the hand-held transmitter 3-4 inches away then 5-6, even 6-8 inches from the buttons. Sometimes this helps pick up a better train to HomeLink. 3. Try a second remote with new batteries. 4. Straighten the antenna wire that hangs down from the garage door opener motorhead. 5. Park your vehicle outside of the garage during programming (make sure it is not under the garage door). 6. Try programming all 3 HomeLink buttons- they are all on different channels.
#55 of 241 Owner's Manual Correction: Disabling Horn Chirp by skylerk Nov 14, 2000 (8:41 am)
The instructions on pages 15-16 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual for disabling the horn chirp are incorrect because the button names are wrong. (I think the 2000 manual has the same error.) Here are the corrected instructions for turning the horn chirp on and off (the words in green/bold are the ones which need to be changed in the manual): 1. Place the key in ignition and turn the key to the ON position (donot start the engine). 2. Press and hold the LOCK button on the transmitter for four to ten seconds. 3. While the LOCK button is pressed, press the PANIC button on the transmitter and then release both buttons. 4. You will hear a single chime when programming is completed. (To give credit where it's due, I must admit that I got these horn chirp instructions from an archived post on the DML.)
#56 of 241 Owner's Manual Correction: Programming Additional Transmitters by skylerk Nov 14, 2000 (8:48 am)
The instructions on pages 16 of the 2001 Dakota Owner's Manual for "Programming Additional Transmitters" are incorrect. (I think the 2000 manual has the same error.) About two-thirds of the way through the instructions, the sentence in the manual which (incorrectly) says... "Within thirty seconds, press and release the lock OR unlock button on all transmitters intended for use with this vehicle except the transmitter used to start the programming mode." ...should say... "Within thirty seconds, press and release the lock AND unlock buttons SIMULTANEOUSLY on all transmitters intended for use with this vehicle except the transmitter used to start the programming mode." (I figured this out myself the hard way after I accidentally deprogrammed one of my remotes while trying to discover the correct way to disable the horn chirp.)
#57 of 241 Keyless entry horn honk by victx Nov 15, 2000 (12:42 am)
AWESOME, just did it and it work. Thanks skylerk. Isn't the internet just great. I went to the dealer several times and they couldn't figure it out.
#58 of 241 all door unlock by quader Dec 01, 2000 (2:17 pm)
Thanks the keyless door lock honk fix worked, now I need help with the all four door unlock on the first press on remote fix. Anybody eles have this problem.
#59 of 241 Farm Bureau stuff by 2nddak Dec 07, 2000 (2:33 am)
Skyler, and others, I had the Farm Bureau just call the "source sequence" number into my dealer since time was short and they accepted that. I never got the $500 voucher to present to the dealer. I assume that the number is what they need to get their cash out of the deal. 2nddak
#60 of 241 Farm Bureau by victx Dec 07, 2000 (3:44 am)
I didn't do any work for my Farm Bureau discount. My dealer asked for a copy of my FB membership card and that's all, they took care of the rest. BTW, Texas Farm Bureau. I got my dealer through autobytel and I was happy with their off of $500 over invoice, so there was no price negotiation. I ordered my truck, so I guess they had plenty of time for them to get the paperwork done.

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