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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota - FAQs
241 messages, Last post on Dec 31, 2007 at 3:13 PM
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Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 25, 2006 10:04 am) |
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Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 25, 2006 10:04 am) My dak has an electric radiator fan also, it comes on when the AC is enguaged.
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Replying to: bpeebles (Jun 25, 2006 4:39 pm) As for the Tranny cooler: You are right mike. I do not have a full blown cooler for the trans...hope I can get one installed in the next 3 days. Don't want to be sitting in Golden, BC with a blown tranny..!!! YIKes..! I noticed that the AC cooler has two receptacles for a bolt on OEM Trans cooler. Will check it out in the AM for price and installation. ...and yup the fan is in fact an electro-static fan. Gonna leave that alone too. man oh man..the learnin just keeps coming.! thanx big time - glad I had a second look and glad for the comments/your query.!! stk
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Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 25, 2006 7:47 pm)
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Replying to: mike133 (Jun 25, 2006 8:20 pm) I will write a follow up..but I am not so sure I am going with a dealer install. (not avail..?? - weird..it's part of the "tow pkg"). They tend to be a bit of a rip..Last time I was qutoed 425 for a trans cooler for a Montana (my previous Co. unit). Got it done for 225 cooler incl. at a private garage. I did some looking around last night and think I will go with either a B & M or a Hayden like yourself. I,ve seen pricing in the 50-100 range CAD. What I want to know is which of the two lines is the return line to the Tranny.? I was thinking a bit about how to install the plumbing and think I will go in series. But put the cooler on the return line from the small cooler in the rad. That way the fluid should be coolest going back to the tranny. That might just work as a 2 stage cooler..? BTW. I would like to know what PN & where you got that 180 Tstat..?? ( I thought about this too...if the motor is only good running at 195..how does it even drive when cold in the AM..Nah I am sure a 180 would work..!!)so yea I would like to know what you put in.? Temp sensor for trans cooler would be a good idea..I will look into doing that as well. Well it's real early here (5:56 Am) and gotta go to Red Deer (Dead Rear), this AM. But will be hunting for a Trans cooler this aft. talk to ya. stk (Theo)
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Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 26, 2006 3:59 am) I put in a NAPA superstat Part # 530080. Now this stat is not listed for a dakota it comes back as for a ford something in their parts book. It does work. You have to get a new gasket from the dealer as it is a rubber ring that slips around the edge of the stat. There is a notch on the edge of the factory stat. Using a small file you can put a notch in the new stat so the gasket rubber ring fits properly. Now I reused the existing gasket and had no problem with leaking. But I do not recommend doing this. The Superstat is $7.00 at NAPA. Now you can also get a direct replacement one from Jet performance thermostats the part # is 10177 it cost $30.00 from SummitRacing.com. I am not sure if it comes with the gasket rubber ring. Hope this was helpful for you. If you check the other forum sites, you will find both pro's and con's to this modification. Most who have done the change like it. Those apposed do not indicate what problems you would have,some do not know just don't recommend it. Make sure you leave the radiator cap off until the engine comes up to temp to make sure no air was trapped in the cooling system. Whether factory or aftermarket it will overheat with trapped air. If you need more coolant use the correct type and do not add water to the coolant, I believe the owner's manual indicates this.Also when these type of thermostats fail, they fail in the open position and the engine will run too cold. I'll be looking for your write up. Mike |
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Mike. Great info on the Tstat. will look for that and i would love to know how/where it goes..?? Seems a bit strange to have to possibly remove the alt to get at where I would think the Tstat goes..?...and yea I have seen the rubber gasket when I went looking for a 180..a bit different but I know what it looks like...cool. let me know I bought a Trans Cooler by "Long" for $ 70.00 CAD today in a Red Deer Tranny Place. Installed the cooler body no problem. The pkg. came supplied with enough brackets and HD screws/bolts-nuts-locks-hose to do this easily. When I went to remove the return line (looking from the front of the engine compartment, it is the one on the right side of the rad), it leaked a bit of rad fluid. Don't worry about it, just remove the nut (7/8" wrench stubby if you got one or a line wrench of that size), and pull the fitting out. It is a bit of a weird set-up as the brass block (inside the bottom part of the rad), that the fittings are attached to seems to be loose inside it's compartment...and at first it made it a bit difficult to re-insert the fitting. Just push on the steel tubing and it will take. BTW..I do not think you can get away without using this so called OEM cooler, as without fittings in them, it will leak out rad fluid. Anyway I cut the return line in two and used 2 dbl. barbed hose nipples (3/8"), and connected the cooler lines to the cut ends. I used Oetiker style clamps..std fare in a welding supply shop. They are the crimp type on 2 sides of the clamp and once crimped, will never let go...but you will need the crimping plier to do it. Once installed, I ran the engine for about 10 minutes to check for leaks .. found none .. so it seems good to go.! Wish I had my digital camera (got stolen at the Global Petroleum Show here last week)...Anyway when I get my new one I will post some pics on webshots: http://community.webshots.com/user/steak2k1 Rgds, Theo
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Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 26, 2006 8:49 pm) If I understand you correctly. If I remove the two quick disconnects that appear to be threaded into the radiator housing which are actually threaded into the transmission cooler coil unit located inside the radiator and this unit will fall away from the inside of the radiator housing and all the coolant inside the radiator will drain out. Wow I didn't realize the radiator was build that cheap. I hope I find a source for the quick disconnect fittings. I really do not want to cut into the factory lines. Thanks for all your help. Also the thermostat is located in the lower left front of the engine. The lower radiator hose is connected to the thermostat housing. Drain the radiator, remove the lower radiator house, remove the thermostat housing two bolts, pay close attention to how thermostat is installed so you do not re-install it backwards. Be careful that stat is align correctly. You can break the stat housing, damage bolts or engine housing threads if you do not take your time. I found it best to work from underneath truck. Just don't get any coolant in your face. Good luck, Mike
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Replying to: mike133 (Jun 27, 2006 4:48 pm) Pics are up BTW. I don't think that the brass block will fall away as there is very little room for it to go anywhere. I did not however have both of the lines off at the same time. And if these are considered quick-disconnect...I would hate to see what a normal connect is..!! I had to use a stubby 7/8 wrench to get them off. Although the cooler I bought came with extra fittings, none of them seemed to match the threading in said brass block. That is why I went with splicing the lines. It is OK to do so as long as you use good clamps )...std hose clamps are in my opinion - useless. If required use good size dbl barbed nipples (3/8). You will not loose all your rad fluid at all...just a few drips/drops will come out but they will come out continuously. The fittings I believe are some sort of hydraulic type compression fitting as it has a flare which you will see when you go to remove the return line. While I was at Best Buy performance here in Calgary, I bought an inline filter for the cooler as well..fairly inexpensive I thought at $35.00CAD .. it too is installed on the return line after the cooler...now having given this some thought now, I probably should have put it into the "in" line side of the cooler as opposed to the last thing before it goes back to the tranny. oh well...can't hurt I feel. Today I finally received my Magnaflow exhaust..damned glad I had a torch here as the old clamps were almost impossible to remove without it. Once the old system was out it was only 15 minutes to install the magnaflow...nice sound, and we shall see in the ensuing time how much of a performance improvement it is. It's just too bad superchips hasn't come up with a programmer just yet...I hear end of summer maybe. Well only thing left before I go to BC is to get the brakes done...(company expense). May as well, as I hear some squealing. curious..have you had any weird things go with your rakes.?? After first getting this truck and if I would step on them real hard I got a shuddering/front end shaking happening that is not (IMHOP), the anti skid braking system. Talked to Dodge and they said at the time there was nothing wrong. Go figure .. A dealer not accepting that their brakes SUCK.?? Imagine that..!! (sic). Just got to read the LemonAide guide and see how many complain about Dodge Brakes..!! Anyway, I took it back in at around 22k and they said I needed all new brakes and charged me for them too.!! I was choked. I'm at 93K at this time ... do lots of business driving.! I will probably have 135 -140 by April and then I can buy it for cheap. anyway...I'll try to post again before I leave on Thursday noon. have a great weekend Mike.! Theo |
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Theo, I now realize why you used the 7/8 open end wrench. You are not aware how the quick disconnects work. It takes a special tool to remove the fitting from the 3/8" tubing. It can be picked apart but you can damage the spring.Best way is the quick disconnect tool less than 10 bucks at most parts stores. I replaced my muffler right after I bought it with a 14" magnaflow sounds great and the rest of the exhaust system is stock other than a stainless steel tip. Have had no problems with my brakes. gook luck on the brake issue. |
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