Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota - FAQs
241 messages, Last post on Dec 31, 2007 at 3:13 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota Forum. Your Host is kcram
|
Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 22, 2006 7:34 pm) It is simply a small radiator inline with the return hose that is connected to the plastic overflow tank. If you wish to add one, then the biggest problem will be locating a place to mount it. Since there is no pressure in the return line, a couple hoseclamps is all that is needed to plumb it in. Any small radiator like a xmission cooler would suffice... it just needs 2-3 passes of the pipe thru the core. The one on the factory 4.7L is actually mounted just beside the PS pump. (on the engine). Perhaps you could look under the hood of some Daks with the factory towing package to see what it looks like. I dont have a PS cooler and prefer to not have one. The steering used to get 'stiff' when outside temps are below -15F. I beleive adding a PS cooler may "overcool" the fluid in my situation. Instead, I replaced my PS fluid with the RedLine PS fluid.... I never-again had 'stiff' steering in the winter. The RedLine base-stock can handle any heat that may get generated without breaking down so it is a good alternatave to having a PS cooler. |
|
|
Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 22, 2006 7:34 pm)
|
|
|
Replying to: mike133 (Jun 23, 2006 8:09 pm) Other 05/06 Dak owners could confirm this..? I would like also to hear from anyone that has installed a fan-on-demand as opposed to one that is always running which is what I have in mine. Now it may be that due to the the way the motor is cooled with the Tstat being one that has a small bypass valve, one should not put in a fan-on-demand type. However if you have... Does it work well, What's the opinion out there.? Thanx, stk
|
|
|
Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 25, 2006 10:04 am) |
|
|
Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 25, 2006 10:04 am) My dak has an electric radiator fan also, it comes on when the AC is enguaged.
|
|
|
Replying to: bpeebles (Jun 25, 2006 4:39 pm) As for the Tranny cooler: You are right mike. I do not have a full blown cooler for the trans...hope I can get one installed in the next 3 days. Don't want to be sitting in Golden, BC with a blown tranny..!!! YIKes..! I noticed that the AC cooler has two receptacles for a bolt on OEM Trans cooler. Will check it out in the AM for price and installation. ...and yup the fan is in fact an electro-static fan. Gonna leave that alone too. man oh man..the learnin just keeps coming.! thanx big time - glad I had a second look and glad for the comments/your query.!! stk
|
|
|
Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 25, 2006 7:47 pm)
|
|
|
Replying to: mike133 (Jun 25, 2006 8:20 pm) I will write a follow up..but I am not so sure I am going with a dealer install. (not avail..?? - weird..it's part of the "tow pkg"). They tend to be a bit of a rip..Last time I was qutoed 425 for a trans cooler for a Montana (my previous Co. unit). Got it done for 225 cooler incl. at a private garage. I did some looking around last night and think I will go with either a B & M or a Hayden like yourself. I,ve seen pricing in the 50-100 range CAD. What I want to know is which of the two lines is the return line to the Tranny.? I was thinking a bit about how to install the plumbing and think I will go in series. But put the cooler on the return line from the small cooler in the rad. That way the fluid should be coolest going back to the tranny. That might just work as a 2 stage cooler..? BTW. I would like to know what PN & where you got that 180 Tstat..?? ( I thought about this too...if the motor is only good running at 195..how does it even drive when cold in the AM..Nah I am sure a 180 would work..!!)so yea I would like to know what you put in.? Temp sensor for trans cooler would be a good idea..I will look into doing that as well. Well it's real early here (5:56 Am) and gotta go to Red Deer (Dead Rear), this AM. But will be hunting for a Trans cooler this aft. talk to ya. stk (Theo)
|
|
|
Replying to: steak2k1 (Jun 26, 2006 3:59 am) I put in a NAPA superstat Part # 530080. Now this stat is not listed for a dakota it comes back as for a ford something in their parts book. It does work. You have to get a new gasket from the dealer as it is a rubber ring that slips around the edge of the stat. There is a notch on the edge of the factory stat. Using a small file you can put a notch in the new stat so the gasket rubber ring fits properly. Now I reused the existing gasket and had no problem with leaking. But I do not recommend doing this. The Superstat is $7.00 at NAPA. Now you can also get a direct replacement one from Jet performance thermostats the part # is 10177 it cost $30.00 from SummitRacing.com. I am not sure if it comes with the gasket rubber ring. Hope this was helpful for you. If you check the other forum sites, you will find both pro's and con's to this modification. Most who have done the change like it. Those apposed do not indicate what problems you would have,some do not know just don't recommend it. Make sure you leave the radiator cap off until the engine comes up to temp to make sure no air was trapped in the cooling system. Whether factory or aftermarket it will overheat with trapped air. If you need more coolant use the correct type and do not add water to the coolant, I believe the owner's manual indicates this.Also when these type of thermostats fail, they fail in the open position and the engine will run too cold. I'll be looking for your write up. Mike |
|
|
Mike. Great info on the Tstat. will look for that and i would love to know how/where it goes..?? Seems a bit strange to have to possibly remove the alt to get at where I would think the Tstat goes..?...and yea I have seen the rubber gasket when I went looking for a 180..a bit different but I know what it looks like...cool. let me know I bought a Trans Cooler by "Long" for $ 70.00 CAD today in a Red Deer Tranny Place. Installed the cooler body no problem. The pkg. came supplied with enough brackets and HD screws/bolts-nuts-locks-hose to do this easily. When I went to remove the return line (looking from the front of the engine compartment, it is the one on the right side of the rad), it leaked a bit of rad fluid. Don't worry about it, just remove the nut (7/8" wrench stubby if you got one or a line wrench of that size), and pull the fitting out. It is a bit of a weird set-up as the brass block (inside the bottom part of the rad), that the fittings are attached to seems to be loose inside it's compartment...and at first it made it a bit difficult to re-insert the fitting. Just push on the steel tubing and it will take. BTW..I do not think you can get away without using this so called OEM cooler, as without fittings in them, it will leak out rad fluid. Anyway I cut the return line in two and used 2 dbl. barbed hose nipples (3/8"), and connected the cooler lines to the cut ends. I used Oetiker style clamps..std fare in a welding supply shop. They are the crimp type on 2 sides of the clamp and once crimped, will never let go...but you will need the crimping plier to do it. Once installed, I ran the engine for about 10 minutes to check for leaks .. found none .. so it seems good to go.! Wish I had my digital camera (got stolen at the Global Petroleum Show here last week)...Anyway when I get my new one I will post some pics on webshots: http://community.webshots.com/user/steak2k1 Rgds, Theo
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota - FAQs
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Dodge Dakota
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
