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Dodge Dakota - FAQs

241 messages,  Last post on Dec 31, 2007 at 3:13 PM

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#180 of 241
98 Dakota front suspension problems by thrllskr85
Oct 27, 2005 (10:32 am)
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Hello everyone,
 
I'm wondering if anyone has encountered what I am going through now. I bought my Dakota new. It is the extended cab with the 3.9L V6 and I have just over 105,000 miles on it and have loved the truck up until now. (Well, I still love it I'm just frustrated.)
 
I brought the truck in recently because the front end was feeling a little "off" and it was shaking when I put the car into 4WD. My mechanic said that the front end was shot. I had to have the shocks, ball joints, tie rods and idler arm all replaced, which cost me a bundle. He said he didn't see a problem with the 4WD though.
 
Now the truck drives better but there is a clicking noise when I get over 20 and it isn't a consistent one. It comes and goes and sometimes it clicks fast and others slow. I'm hesitant to bring it back to my mechanic because I think he may have forgotten to check it at all and just said he did. That bothers me.
 
Is anyone aware of suspension and drivetrain troubles with the Dakota. I've found online that the Durango is a nightmare with ball joints and I know a lot of the parts are the same.
 
Any feedback or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
John
#181 of 241
Re: 98 Dakota front suspension problems [thrllskr85] by dustyk
Oct 27, 2005 (3:09 pm)
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Replying to: thrllskr85 (Oct 27, 2005 10:32 am)

Actually, even on the Durango the suspension components are good OEM quality. The common part that has been a notable problem are the upper ball joints. The metallurgy of the joint itself was good, but the seal material was the problem that allowed moisture to get into the joint and cause premature rusting. This issue has been addressed and mid-2003s and up are fine.
 
Some say the shocks are poor quality (pre-2005), but I see them going 70-80K on a lot of Daks. I've got 50K on my 2003 Club Cab suspension and everything is still good. The shocks have softened up but they are still within 80% of new. My Dak was recalled for the upper ball joints and one was definitely bad at the time they replaced it.
 
Tie-rod ends, springs, bushings are still in excellent shape and most Daks are fine in this area even at 200K miles. My son's '91 went 340K on everything...including the ball joints...and is still going with out any front end work other than shocks, although the bushings are dry and beginning to squeak.
 
Regarding the drive train, I think the Dak is pretty solid here, too. There seems to be a small population of Daks that suffer from premature rear differential failures, but I think that's on the 9.25 differential made by American Axle. I can't remember any 8.25s failing. What I have seen are u-joints wearing and quite a few seem to go at the 50K mark or there abouts. I've seen a couple that have seized, too.
 
As to the clicking noise, is this a problem that only occurs in 4wd?
 
Regards,
Dusty
#182 of 241
Spark Plugs - 4.7 (287 cu.) Magnum by dustyk
Dec 19, 2005 (7:35 pm)
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Factory eqipped:Copper+ (OEM)RC12MCC4 (#439)
 
Autolite
Double Platinum APP5224 gap .040
Platinum AP5224 gap .040
Resistor 5224 gap .040
 
Bosch
Platinum +4 4418 (Do not Gap)
Platinum Part 4230 Gap=.040
Super Plug FR8LCX Gap=.040
Platinum Plug FR8LPX Gap=.040
Platinum 2 4301 (Do Not Gap)
Super Part 7562 Gap=.040
 
Champion
Double Platinum RC12PYP #7071 .040
Truck Plug #4071 gap.040
Platinum Power #3071 .040
Copper+ (OEM)RC12MCC4 #439 .040 (2003-2006)
Copper Plug RC12MCC4 (2003-2006)
Platinum Plug #3318 (2000-2003)
Double Platinum Plug #7318 (2003-2004)
 
Denso
Iriduim 5303 IK16 .044
Double Platinum 3246 PKJ16CR-L11 .044
U-groove 3132 KJ16CR-L11 .044
 
NGK
IX Iridium ZFR6FIX-11 (6441) .040
Double Platinum PZFR6F-11 (3271) .040
GP Platinum ZFR6FGP (7100) .040
V-Power ZFR6F-11G (6987) .040
Platinum Laser PZFR5F-11 (4363) .040
#183 of 241
Re: Spark Plugs - 4.7 (287 cu.) Magnum [dustyk] by jneal
Dec 20, 2005 (7:50 am)
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Replying to: dustyk (Dec 19, 2005 7:35 pm)

Hey Dusty, haven't seen you on the boards in a while. Merry Christmas.
 
Do you have a preference on these plugs and if so, why??
#184 of 241
Re: Spark Plugs - 4.7 (287 cu.) Magnum [dustyk] by bpeebles
Dec 20, 2005 (3:42 pm)
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Replying to: dustyk (Dec 19, 2005 7:35 pm)

Dusty, As usual, you are knowledgable about the Dak and its intricies. I am duly impressed 8-)
 
The preferred spark plug is perhaps the Bosch Platinum +4 (4418)
 
When changing the spark plugs on the 4.7L engine do not forget the following.
1) Use compressed air to blow any debris from the hole BEFORE removing the sparkplug.
2) Apply antiseeze to the sparkplug threads.
3) Apply silicone to the O-rings of the ignitors before reinstalling.
#185 of 241
Re: Spark Plugs - 4.7 (287 cu.) Magnum [jneal] by dustyk
Dec 23, 2005 (11:45 am)
Reply

Replying to: jneal (Dec 20, 2005 7:50 am)

I've either been very busy, trying to survive another personal upheaval, or suffering from a bad case of RoadRunner internet service.
 
I only have experience with the factory supplied Champions and the Bosch Platinum Plus 4s. I changed the factory plugs out at 10,000 miles because of an intermittent lumpy idle and very slight and only occasional cold weather hestitation.
 
I just replaced the Boschs at 50,000 miles. They looked very good and I'm sure they would go another 50K. When I went from the Champions to the Platinum+4s I did not feel any difference in the way the engine ran, except the lumpy idle and occasional cold weather stumble seemed to disappear. There was no change in fuel consumption and I do not believe any change in overall performance.
 
When I changed-out the +4s for another set, I did realize about a 1.7 MPG increase in fuel mileage and I felt some increased responsiveness in the low end. I must also say that I replaced the air filter and PCV valve, as well as cleaned the throttle body and air port. At this moment I am not inclined to believe that the Bosch plugs offer a lot more than the Champion Copper Plus that came with my 4.7. In all fairness, I should try another set of the Champions before I can conclusively be convinced, but I have worked on a few Dak 4.7s with 50-60K on the factory plugs and they seemed to be running fine, albeit they ran better after a plug change. Maybe after 40K on Champion Copper Pluses Id being saying the same thing. I don't know.
 
One thing I can say for sure is that for most drivers with the 4.7 the Champions are probably a pretty good spark plug and you won't go wrong if you continue to use it. You should go longer with platinum, however.
 
Bests & Merry Christmas,
Dusty
#186 of 241
Re: Spark Plugs - 4.7 (287 cu.) Magnum [bpeebles] by dustyk
Dec 23, 2005 (11:59 am)
Reply

Replying to: bpeebles (Dec 20, 2005 3:42 pm)

Bpeebles,
 
Good comments on 4.7 spark plug maintenance. At 50K everything looked almost like new on my 4.7. The O-rings are still pliable and appear to be sealing well.
 
The one curse is the cooling line clamps that secure the metal heater lines that run in front of the throttlebody. I broke one the last time and broke another this time. The right side clamp is 05015518AA, by the way.
 
I also broke the end of the PCV valve off trying to remove the vacuum line. Fortunately I had a new valve (53032800AA) in hand. Be sure to remove the inlet duct from the air box before attempting to remove the PCV valve. The valve does not simply pull out, but twists out by camming action, and to properly access the PCV valve requires good access. Looking at the PCV valve head on from the right side of the vehicle, the PCV valve must be rotated downwards (counterclockwise) and may then be withdrawn.
 
Bests & Merry Christmas,
Dusty
#187 of 241
Re: Spark Plugs - 4.7 (287 cu.) Magnum [dustyk] by jneal
Dec 24, 2005 (6:31 am)
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Replying to: dustyk (Dec 23, 2005 11:59 am)

Very good information...Thanks, Dusty and Bpeebles
#188 of 241
4.7 by dakota0
Dec 30, 2005 (10:38 am)
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hey ppls i have a standard 2000 4.7 dakota and i was wondering if any of you have run one stock in a 1/4 mile. i was wondering what they run. and i've seen the new dakota r/t's from the 2006 line. why are they using an inferior engine to the 5.9?
#189 of 241
Chrysler Transmissions & ATF by dustyk
Feb 22, 2006 (4:34 pm)
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Petroleum-based Dexron-Mercon automatic transmission fluid (ATF) was originally designed for General Motor’s automatic transmissions and has been in existence since the early 1950s. In "normal" service Dexron-Mercon will provide an approximate 100,000 miles service limit when operated in a steady 175 degree F environment.
 
Dexron-Mercon ATF, like all other types, are easily deteriorated from heat, friction, moisture, and other contaminates that cause oxidation. As oxidation advances, clutch and other component operation are adversely affected, and likewise as component and clutch operation degrade, ATF deterioration advances. This causes a rapid, non-linear effect in overall fluid deterioration and subsequent lack of fluid performance.
 
The approximate life expectancy of petroleum-based Dexron-Mercon ATF types are shown in the following commonly distributed chart. Keep in mind that the chart only considers temperature variation. Contamination from moisture or other materials will advance the fluid’s deterioration and expiration:
  
175°F.............100,000 miles
195°F..............50,000 miles
212°F..............25,000 miles
235°F..............12,000 miles
255°F...............6,000 miles
275°F...............3,000 miles
295°F...............1,500 miles
315°F.................750 miles
335°F.................375 miles
355°F.................187 miles
375°F..................94 miles
390°F..................47 miles
415°F...................5 miles
 
NOTE: The above chart has not been verified for accuracy, however is included here to illustrate the relationship of operating temperature to ATF longevity.
 
A little known fact is that Chrysler Corporation has for some time had its own proprietary ATF, eventually known as ATF+ (ATF "plus"), and since the mid-1950s this fluid was designated "fill-for-life." This meant that under "normal" driving conditions the transmission fluid was serviceable for the life of the vehicle and did not require routine service. "Normal" driving conditions were defined as a vehicle that was NOT used for police, taxi, or other commercial operation, towing or exceeding the vehicle load specifications, not operated in dusty conditions, at high speeds in greater than 90 F ambient temperatures, excessive idling, or above average short trip or stop-and-go driving (city). In addition, Chrysler stipulated that if any amount of Dexron-Mercon was added to the original factory fill, the fluid and filter required replacement every 25,000 miles.
 
Chrysler permitted use of Dexron-Mercon in their older series of transmissions (A-904, A-727) for many years but strictly for the purposes of maintenance or over haul. Since its inception, Chrysler has improved on the original ATF+ with ATF+2 (7176D), ATF+3 (type 7176E), and the current ATF+4 fluids and now recommends the use of ATF+4 (type 9602) and prohibits the use of Dexron-Mercon, with a few exceptions. Jeep vehicles using the Aisin-Warner transmissions (AW-3, AW-4) must use Dexron-Mercon. In addition, all 1999 and older mini-vans should continue to use ATF+3 to prevent torque converter shudder. For all other Chrysler-built cars and trucks, any transmission originally supplied with ATF+, ATF+2, or ATF+3, should use type 9602, ATF+4. Chrysler states that ATF+4 may be used when adding fluid to all vehicles originally supplied with ATF+3. Some earlier Chrysler vehicle owner’s manuals stated that Dexron-Mercon could be used, and some dipsticks are marked "Use Dexron-Mercon." This is an error, however. Dexron-Mercon should not be used in ANY Chrysler-built vehicle.
 
USE
 
Despite the myth perpetrated by many, Dexron-Mercon is not a universal transmission fluid. And just like the prohibition against its use in Honda, Nissan, Toyota, and some Ford products, Dexron-Mercon should not be used in ANY Chrysler-built motor vehicle. In addition, all packaged ATFs of whatever type are not necessarily the same. If you look closely at the various manufacturers of Dexron or Mercon, for example, you will note there are significant variations in the fluid specifications. There is even disagreement in the industry of whether Mercon V is compatible with older transmissions specifying the use of Dexron IIE or III. The same situation holds true for non-OEM manufacturers of ATF+3.
 
Chrysler’s prohibition against the use of any fluid other than the appropriate ATF+ is not arbitrary. ATF+3 & 4 are highly modified fluids. ATF+ 3 and 4 contain a unique and patented friction modifier formula that is integral to the transmission design and is required to maintain the original shift quality, and ultimately the design life of the transmission. This makes the shift and clutch engagement quality of Chrysler transmissions extremely sensitive to ATF characteristics. Despite claims otherwise by transmission repair centers or competitive lubricant manufacturers, Dexron-Mercon altered with generic friction modifiers are NOT equivalent with the design specifications of ATF+ series fluids.
 
ATF+3
 
ATF+3 is an advanced fluid that replaced factory fill ATF+2. It is specifically formulated to Chrysler automatic transmission designs and is necessary to maintain factory shift quality and overall transmission performance. Although a Chrysler proprietary formulation, ATF+3 has been licensed by Chrysler for manufacture by competing, non-OEM suppliers. Although always a better choice than using somebody else’s fluid, aftermarket ATF+3 formulations are not necessarily the same as the original factory fluid and either shift quality or long term transmission performance and reliability may be adversely affected.
 

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