Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota - FAQs
241 messages, Last post on Dec 31, 2007 at 3:13 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota Forum. Your Host is kcram
|
Replying to: dodgetrukn (Oct 21, 2005 8:57 am) The first time I changed it, I used "normal" PS fluid.... my steering was VERY stiff on cold mornings. The next time, I used RedLine and that totally fixed my stiff steeing in the cold weather. I had no issues with PS pump after refilling. I found that the first time I started the engine, the new fluid turned into foam from all the air in the system. I just stopped the engine and let it sit for a few minutes to allow the air to percalate out of the fluid. It may take a few days for the fluid-level to settle out to a constant level. Just check it daily for a while. It is impossible to get ALL of the old fluid out using this method... but it is less risky than removing the hoses from the PS rack to drain it. If you are concerned about it, just change fluid again after about a month to ensure that the system is mostly new fluid. Since it takes less than a quart to change it and is not very hard to do, this is not really a bad idea. |
|
|
Replying to: dodgetrukn (Oct 21, 2005 8:57 am) Regards, Dusty |
|
|
|
|
Folks , got the truck back today. Called first thing in the morning to confirm that dealership will put syn back into the rear after the rebuild. They said I would have to pay for the synthetic fluid. I stated that Dodge specifically says that there must be synthetic in the rear or dodge would not honor their warranty if I towed anything. I also mentioned that I had originally paid for them to swap in synthetic years ago so as I would not be at fault for my original warranty. They said they would check on that.. New pinion,carrier, and axle bearings along with specified seals and synthetic with friction modifier...as prescribed..Nothing needed for driveshafts, trans, or transfer case. $422-parts, $686-labor, $66 tax = total $1174 covered under "warranty direct". Happy to have my truck back....Ger. 
|
|
|
|
|
Hello everyone, I'm wondering if anyone has encountered what I am going through now. I bought my Dakota new. It is the extended cab with the 3.9L V6 and I have just over 105,000 miles on it and have loved the truck up until now. (Well, I still love it I'm just frustrated.) I brought the truck in recently because the front end was feeling a little "off" and it was shaking when I put the car into 4WD. My mechanic said that the front end was shot. I had to have the shocks, ball joints, tie rods and idler arm all replaced, which cost me a bundle. He said he didn't see a problem with the 4WD though. Now the truck drives better but there is a clicking noise when I get over 20 and it isn't a consistent one. It comes and goes and sometimes it clicks fast and others slow. I'm hesitant to bring it back to my mechanic because I think he may have forgotten to check it at all and just said he did. That bothers me. Is anyone aware of suspension and drivetrain troubles with the Dakota. I've found online that the Durango is a nightmare with ball joints and I know a lot of the parts are the same. Any feedback or thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks John
|
|
|
Replying to: thrllskr85 (Oct 27, 2005 10:32 am) Some say the shocks are poor quality (pre-2005), but I see them going 70-80K on a lot of Daks. I've got 50K on my 2003 Club Cab suspension and everything is still good. The shocks have softened up but they are still within 80% of new. My Dak was recalled for the upper ball joints and one was definitely bad at the time they replaced it. Tie-rod ends, springs, bushings are still in excellent shape and most Daks are fine in this area even at 200K miles. My son's '91 went 340K on everything...including the ball joints...and is still going with out any front end work other than shocks, although the bushings are dry and beginning to squeak. Regarding the drive train, I think the Dak is pretty solid here, too. There seems to be a small population of Daks that suffer from premature rear differential failures, but I think that's on the 9.25 differential made by American Axle. I can't remember any 8.25s failing. What I have seen are u-joints wearing and quite a few seem to go at the 50K mark or there abouts. I've seen a couple that have seized, too. As to the clicking noise, is this a problem that only occurs in 4wd? Regards, Dusty |
|
|
Factory eqipped:Copper+ (OEM)RC12MCC4 (#439) Autolite Double Platinum APP5224 gap .040 Platinum AP5224 gap .040 Resistor 5224 gap .040 Bosch Platinum +4 4418 (Do not Gap) Platinum Part 4230 Gap=.040 Super Plug FR8LCX Gap=.040 Platinum Plug FR8LPX Gap=.040 Platinum 2 4301 (Do Not Gap) Super Part 7562 Gap=.040 Champion Double Platinum RC12PYP #7071 .040 Truck Plug #4071 gap.040 Platinum Power #3071 .040 Copper+ (OEM)RC12MCC4 #439 .040 (2003-2006) Copper Plug RC12MCC4 (2003-2006) Platinum Plug #3318 (2000-2003) Double Platinum Plug #7318 (2003-2004) Denso Iriduim 5303 IK16 .044 Double Platinum 3246 PKJ16CR-L11 .044 U-groove 3132 KJ16CR-L11 .044 NGK IX Iridium ZFR6FIX-11 (6441) .040 Double Platinum PZFR6F-11 (3271) .040 GP Platinum ZFR6FGP (7100) .040 V-Power ZFR6F-11G (6987) .040 Platinum Laser PZFR5F-11 (4363) .040 |
|
|
Replying to: dustyk (Dec 19, 2005 7:35 pm) Do you have a preference on these plugs and if so, why??
|
|
|
Replying to: dustyk (Dec 19, 2005 7:35 pm) The preferred spark plug is perhaps the Bosch Platinum +4 (4418) When changing the spark plugs on the 4.7L engine do not forget the following. 1) Use compressed air to blow any debris from the hole BEFORE removing the sparkplug. 2) Apply antiseeze to the sparkplug threads. 3) Apply silicone to the O-rings of the ignitors before reinstalling.
|
|
|
Replying to: jneal (Dec 20, 2005 7:50 am) I only have experience with the factory supplied Champions and the Bosch Platinum Plus 4s. I changed the factory plugs out at 10,000 miles because of an intermittent lumpy idle and very slight and only occasional cold weather hestitation. I just replaced the Boschs at 50,000 miles. They looked very good and I'm sure they would go another 50K. When I went from the Champions to the Platinum+4s I did not feel any difference in the way the engine ran, except the lumpy idle and occasional cold weather stumble seemed to disappear. There was no change in fuel consumption and I do not believe any change in overall performance. When I changed-out the +4s for another set, I did realize about a 1.7 MPG increase in fuel mileage and I felt some increased responsiveness in the low end. I must also say that I replaced the air filter and PCV valve, as well as cleaned the throttle body and air port. At this moment I am not inclined to believe that the Bosch plugs offer a lot more than the Champion Copper Plus that came with my 4.7. In all fairness, I should try another set of the Champions before I can conclusively be convinced, but I have worked on a few Dak 4.7s with 50-60K on the factory plugs and they seemed to be running fine, albeit they ran better after a plug change. Maybe after 40K on Champion Copper Pluses Id being saying the same thing. I don't know. One thing I can say for sure is that for most drivers with the 4.7 the Champions are probably a pretty good spark plug and you won't go wrong if you continue to use it. You should go longer with platinum, however. Bests & Merry Christmas, Dusty
|
|
|
Replying to: bpeebles (Dec 20, 2005 3:42 pm) Good comments on 4.7 spark plug maintenance. At 50K everything looked almost like new on my 4.7. The O-rings are still pliable and appear to be sealing well. The one curse is the cooling line clamps that secure the metal heater lines that run in front of the throttlebody. I broke one the last time and broke another this time. The right side clamp is 05015518AA, by the way. I also broke the end of the PCV valve off trying to remove the vacuum line. Fortunately I had a new valve (53032800AA) in hand. Be sure to remove the inlet duct from the air box before attempting to remove the PCV valve. The valve does not simply pull out, but twists out by camming action, and to properly access the PCV valve requires good access. Looking at the PCV valve head on from the right side of the vehicle, the PCV valve must be rotated downwards (counterclockwise) and may then be withdrawn. Bests & Merry Christmas, Dusty
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota - FAQs
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Dodge Dakota
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
