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Dodge Dakota - FAQs

241 messages,  Last post on Dec 31, 2007 at 3:13 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#168 of 241
Re: 95 Fuel Gauage issue [utter1] by bpeebles
Sep 15, 2005 (5:14 pm)
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Replying to: utter1 (Sep 15, 2005 5:00 pm)

Try connecting together the wires that go to the fuel sender (at the tank) If the gauge does not move and the light does not go out... you have a wiring problem...not a fuel-sender problem
#169 of 241
Re: 95 Fuel Gauage issue [bpeebles] by utter1
Sep 16, 2005 (11:31 am)
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Replying to: bpeebles (Sep 15, 2005 5:14 pm)

Thanks Saturday morning Garage will let you know
#170 of 241
2001 quad. 4.7l -3.92lsd rear. by dodgetrukn
Oct 18, 2005 (2:48 pm)
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Almost 70k miles, now I hear a whine from the rear end direction.. Checked the rear diff for synthetic fluid levels as is fine and even looks/feels fine .. Don't feel any wobble at any certain speeds but definite whine. Anyone have something similar after all these miles? Wondering how many folks might have had to change their u-joints at 70k?? The whine increases in loudness as I drive faster..I used to remember when u-joints wore out on my older vehicles that you would feel the vehicle shake at a consistent speed..45-50mph.. Seemed to notice that this noise just started about a day or 2 ago..Any background help is appreciated as I am leaning towards getting the u-joints looked at and/or replaced..or jack it up myself and see if the driveshaft feels loose.. I dont get any banging in gears although it would seem less with a manual then an automatic trans.. bahhhh
Thanks, Ger
#171 of 241
Re: 2001 quad. 4.7l -3.92lsd rear. [dodgetrukn] by bookitty
Oct 18, 2005 (4:11 pm)
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Replying to: dodgetrukn (Oct 18, 2005 2:48 pm)

Ger, I had some noise emanating from the rear axle in my 2000 4WD w/3.55. It turned out to be the side thrust bearing in the axle/differential. They were replaced and it is fine now.
 
Bookitty
#172 of 241
Re: 2001 quad. 4.7l -3.92lsd rear. [dodgetrukn] by bpeebles
Oct 18, 2005 (5:21 pm)
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Replying to: dodgetrukn (Oct 18, 2005 2:48 pm)

My rear Ujoint was replaced under warantee just before the 50K mile warantee ended. As you say -- a Ujoint usually cuses a vibration... not a whine
 
 However, I would not expect a Ujoint to cause a "whine". That would be more like center bearing (if you have one) or rear end.
 
Question: Does the whine change amplitude when ACCELLERATING or DECELLERATING? ...What about at constant 'cruze' ?
#173 of 241
Re: 2001 quad. 4.7l -3.92lsd rear. [bookitty] by dodgetrukn
Oct 18, 2005 (5:21 pm)
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Replying to: bookitty (Oct 18, 2005 4:11 pm)

Thanks for the tips guys... I was just under the truck again for another quick check thinking maybe its still a u-joint..seems tight.. Guess I'll be checking my original warranty and my "extended direct warranty" for some $$ help.. and..i'll be heading to my dealer ...
The whine noise pitch seems to get higher with more speed and lower with less speed as does the volume increase and decrease with acceleration and decceleration. It sounds like its coming from the back seat to rear of the truck..but definitely just started happening 1-2 days ago..Oh. and at constant cruise, the whining sound remains the same.
 
Just wondering bookitty..how many miles did your truck have before exhibiting this noise..? thanks for the response(s)..Ger
#174 of 241
Re: 2001 quad. 4.7l -3.92lsd rear. [dodgetrukn] by bookitty
Oct 19, 2005 (12:01 pm)
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Replying to: dodgetrukn (Oct 18, 2005 5:21 pm)

Ger, under 35K. Extended warranty took care of it, because the OEM warranty expired (time-wise)
 
Bookitty
#175 of 241
Re: 2001 quad. 4.7l -3.92lsd rear. [bookitty] by dodgetrukn
Oct 19, 2005 (6:05 pm)
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Replying to: bookitty (Oct 19, 2005 12:01 pm)

Bookitty..dealer gets my truck thursday..will see whats diagnosed! Got the diamond "direct warranty" 7yrs/100,000 miles..Will post what they "fix" soon.. Ger
#176 of 241
Dealer to replace Carrier and Pinion bearings.. by dodgetrukn
Oct 21, 2005 (8:57 am)
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Bookitty, Bruce, All...
  Dealer is rebuilding the rear differential. Was told the carrier and pinion bearings were bad. I originally thought carrier bearings were for the driveshaft..My warranty approved the repair. Dropped truck off thurs night, should get it back monday.
  My truck was built in april-2001. I had mentioned about flushing and replacing my p/s fluid with synthetic. I was told DODGE does not make synthetic for the p/s unit. I thought dodge put syn in ~ > june of 2001 trucks.. Told them forget about that. I will look for the Redline, and pull the low pressure hose off and drain turning the wheel lock to lock?? then refill with redline synthetic as I have read others have done. I am just a bit concerned not to lock up the p/s pump when the fluid comes out..Guess a bit nervous.. Comments?? thanks, Ger.
#177 of 241
Re: Dealer to replace Carrier and Pinion bearings.. [dodgetrukn] by bpeebles
Oct 21, 2005 (5:05 pm)
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Replying to: dodgetrukn (Oct 21, 2005 8:57 am)

I have replaced my PS fluid twice by pulling the low-pressure line off the resivour and lowering it into a bucket. It helps if the front wheels are off the ground so you can turn the wheels lock-to-lock to purge the fluid from the system. It also makes less of a mess if you suck out as much fluid as possible from the resivour BEFORE pulling the hose off.
 
The first time I changed it, I used "normal" PS fluid.... my steering was VERY stiff on cold mornings.
 
The next time, I used RedLine and that totally fixed my stiff steeing in the cold weather.
 
I had no issues with PS pump after refilling. I found that the first time I started the engine, the new fluid turned into foam from all the air in the system. I just stopped the engine and let it sit for a few minutes to allow the air to percalate out of the fluid. It may take a few days for the fluid-level to settle out to a constant level. Just check it daily for a while.
 
It is impossible to get ALL of the old fluid out using this method... but it is less risky than removing the hoses from the PS rack to drain it. If you are concerned about it, just change fluid again after about a month to ensure that the system is mostly new fluid. Since it takes less than a quart to change it and is not very hard to do, this is not really a bad idea.

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