Last post on Apr 22, 2012 at 6:27 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota-2010 and older
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Dodge Dakota, Truck
#132 of 243 Re: Dakota Fuel Pump Problem? [pnedry]
Sep 24, 2004 (12:44 pm)
I have a 1995 dakota 5.2 v8 and have had the same problem at about the exact same time (mileage).
I went with the mopar over autozone. Dodge warranties part and labor for 12 months or 12 thousand miles. With Autozone you save money but what's the reliability? and Warranty? They probably warranty the part but not labor. I don't think you'll find anybody to warranty the labor if the part goes, unless you do it your self. Good luck it's your call.
#133 of 243 Re: ABS 8 BRAKE WARNING LIGHTS (....' dodge dakota, 2 wheel drive [jody]
Sep 24, 2004 (4:22 pm)
I am trained in electronics and have been using DVMs (Digital Volt Meters) for over 25 years.
When you say ". When I put a volt meter in series w/ the 10 amp fuse slot (for the ABS), I read a partial short... Anybody know if I'm on the right track?"
I am not clear what you are expecting to measure and what reading you are seeing.
A "VoltMeter" cannot measure a "short" (That would be done with an OHMmeter)
If you are truly putting a VoltMeter in "series" with a fuse, then you are not measuring anything very meaningful. (I would expect that you would measure battery voltage if the key were turned on) I am wondering how in the world you got a voltmeter in "series" with a fuse. (most folks measure voltage across or "parallel" to a fuse)
If one measures in "series" with a fuse, it is usually CURRENT (amps) that would be measuerd. This value is most often measured if a fuse were constantly blowing. I would NOT recommend a novice to be making this measurement. (easy to fry your meter)
This leads me to ask some additional questions so I understand the conditions under which you are making measurements.
*)Why are you taking this measurement?
*)What voltage are you reading for each position of the keyswitch?
*)Do you have 2wheel or 4wheel ABS on your Dak?
I would not recommend that you mess with the ABS system very much. Failure of the ABS system may compromize your safety.
If you really wish to take some meaningful measurements, why not unscrew that sensor from the rear axle and test it with an ohmmeter on the bench? (2 wheel ABS only)
Nov 06, 2004 (6:35 pm)
Hi everybody! I just found the Dakota board and signed up. I don't know the rules of the road re: etiquette on this board, so I hope I don't step on anybody's toes.
I bought a 2001 Dakota Sport Extended Cab 4x4 with the 4.7 V8 today (Intense Blue) with 46,000 miles on it. It's the first truck I've ever bought, and its the truck I've always wanted, so I'm real excited about it!
I have a couple of questions, and I was wondering if anybody could help me out. (Sorry if these have been posted before and I didn't find them on the search)
1. Where can I get an owner's manual? Is it possible to download a PDF online, or is hard copy the only thing available? The truck came with everything but that, and not only do I not know the maintenance schedule, I can't even set the darn clock on the CD player!
2. Are there any well known problems that I should watch out for (because its a 4x4, or problems with the 4.7 engine, or problems in general for the 2001 model)?
Thanks for any help you can give!
#135 of 243 Re: New member says [bluesport4x4]
Nov 07, 2004 (3:21 pm)
I have a 2000 Dak 4X4 and had the dealer throw in the shop manual. It is at least 3 inches thick and explains most of the mechanical systems in great detail. Either pay full price at a Dodge dealer or check out Ebay. Oftentiomes these can be found there.
The 4.7L engine has been pretty bulletproof. Change the 6-quarts of oil every 5K miles and it will outlast the truck.
There is an "issue" with water-oil emulsion (AKA snot) buildup in the oil-fill tube. This is most evident in cooler weather. About once a week, remove the oil-fill cap and pull out the "baffle" (about 6-inch long insert inside the oil-fill tube). I can saturate 3 paper towles with the water that builds up in there.
Be prepared to replace the front brakes/rotors more frequently than with other vehicles. If you install the best components you can find, it will help.
original shock absorbers are cr$p. Mine wore out and were leaking in a year. Most folks install "Edelbrock IAS" which are perhaps the best available for the Dak.
If you replace all gear oils (front/rear diff, xfer case.) with RedLine, you can get about 2-4 more MPG.
A/C can be a bit whimpy, I have improved my A/C with some pipe-insulation. Ask if you want details.
The 2001 was somwhat "cheepened" by Dodge, the spare is not the same aluminum wheel as the other 4. The insulation under the hood was not installed on most 2001s. ... I can go on but you get the idea.
#136 of 243 New Member Bluesport4X4
Nov 08, 2004 (9:50 am)
Welcome, I have an '01 CC 2WD 4.7. You can get an owners manual from Techauthority.com for $10.00 and the Service Manual is $90.00 (hard copy or CD) if you are into your own maintenance. I don't know of any place that you can download from. To set the clock look for the letters "H" and "M" on the face of the radio at the top right. There are two little buttons that you just push in on. I use a toothpick. Let us know if you have any other problems.
#137 of 243 Thanks for the advice
Nov 25, 2004 (5:59 am)
Bruce - Thanks for the advice. Its great to hear that the 4.7 is a good engine. I like the idea on switching to RedLine. I switched to all synthetics on my previous ride (an Eagle Talon TSI AWD) and it definitely made a difference. Plus, I'm a firm believer on clean fluids and synthetics. The shocks are crap, just like you said. Do the Edelbrocks help eliminate the bucking I get when going over rough pavement?
Dick - Thanks for the tip on clock changing and owners manual info. I've now got both in hand.
#138 of 243 Re: Thanks for the advice [bluesport4x4]
Nov 27, 2004 (5:52 pm)
YES! The Edelbrock IAS shocks absolutely ELIMINATE the "bucking" over rough pavement.
My dak had got to the point wheras over expansion joints (on bridges) the reazr end would "buck" about 4-6 inches to the side. This was VERY scary at 65MPH. Alsom I could not accelelrate over rough pavement because the rear wheels would "buck" all over the place.
After switching to the Edelbrock IAS absorbers, the rear end stays planted. I can acclerate at full-throttle in second gear and the rear end just 'squats' a little bit over the rough stuff.... but it NEVER "bucks" anymore.
As a bonus, the special valving in the Edelbrock IAS, actually improves cornering and braking because the absorbers are "smart enough" to remain "stiff" under those conditions.
Make no mistake, the Edelbrock IAS are a high-pressure MONOTUBE shock absorber. Not the cheaper design of a dual tube with low pressure in it. Also, the Edelbrock IAS patented valves require them to be installed "upside down" from what other absorbers normally are. This places the valves on the lower MOVING part of the mechinism. This allows a built-in weight to "sense" the accelleration of the wheel and instanty adjust the valves to control the wheel movement.
Nov 28, 2004 (6:58 am)
These shocks sound almost too good to be true. Where did you find the best price for them?
#140 of 243 Re: Edelbrock IAS shocks [bluesport4x4]
Nov 28, 2004 (2:36 pm)
I got my Edelbrock IAS from http://www.shockwarehouse.com/
Their price was competitive and their website is very informative.
Nov 30, 2004 (4:43 pm)
I appreciate the info!
Do you know of anybody that's put an aftermarket cat-back exhaust system or aftermarket cold air kit on a 4.7 Dakota? I'm wondering if its worth the money.