Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM
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Dodge Dakota, Truck
#4310 of 4362 Re: 2005 Dodge Dakota Break Problems [missmae]
Aug 30, 2006 (12:27 pm)
In my opinion as long as you have factory brakes on there you are guarenteed to have problems. My buddy who used to work at a dealership swears DC can't design proper truck brakes if its life depended on it. He said his dealership actually started going to outside suppliers after repeatedly replacing factory brake components that just went bad again in another few thousand miles.
On my 04 Dakota 4x4 Quad my first set warped, and warped BADLY, at just after 7500 miles of all highway driving. After fighting with my dealership to even get them to admit that there was a vibration problem they admitted that all four rotors were warped and replaced them with a new set for free. I was fine for 3-4 months, then that 2nd set started causing another steering wheel vibration when braking right after my 12000 mile goodwill brake replacement period was up. It started as a very minor shimmy so I tolerated it until 45 thousand miles when it got so bad that the whole truck would vibrate violently in hard braking and when you tried to talk while the brakes were applied your voice waivered like you were sitting in the middle of an earthquake. As of 1000 miles ago there is now a set of Raybestos rotors with Bendix titanium metallic II pads on the front and the truck is now 100% vibration free in all braking situations. This is the best the truck has ever felt in braking, with much better pedal feel. Finally feels like I have something that can stand up to a little abuse. It'll eventually get the same combo on the back.
Gas and time repeatedly going back to the dealership can be cost prohibitive and the stress of having such problems with a new vehicle probably isn't worth it anymore even if you're getting goodwill replacements. And if you're no longer getting free replacements I definitely wouldn't let a dealership put factory brakes on the truck again. Whatever they did to fiddle with the brake lines won't help and the thing about the brakes seating with the pads eventually solving the vibration problems isn't true. They're lying to you just so you go away without raising an even bigger stink. Dodge Dakota rotors are utter garbage, plain and simple.
IMHO, do some research on the net and get a consensus on good aftermarket rotor/pad combos for your truck. Mine works for me, but you may want something different. The important part is make sure none of it is mopar. Spend 100-150$ for good front pads and rotors and another 60$ for the labor and then enjoy problem-free braking for another 50-100,000 miles.
They don't make them like the used to. My old 95 Ranger had the factory rotors on it when I traded with one resurfacing at 100K, and I beat the snot out of that truck. On the Dak if I would have kept getting factory brakes put on I'd probably literally need rotors with every oil change. The one good thing I can say is between rotor issues and wheel balance issues, I have gotten really good at 'seat of the pants' diagnosis of vibration problems.
#4311 of 4362 Re: 2005 Dodge Dakota Break Problems [eharri3]
Aug 30, 2006 (6:20 pm)
I second thaqt opionion..... the factory brake rotors are junk. Why waste your time having the dealership install the same junk?
I went thru factory rotors and some expensive "powerslot" rotors too. This is what the powerslot looked like after 3 winters.
Now, I have the Raybestos / Bendix rotors installed on my dakota. They have lasted TWICE as long as the factory or the "powerslot" rotors and are still going.
I dont know about you .... but it is a big waste of my time to do a rinky-dink job on my brake system. In the long run it costs less and is safer to just install quality components and be done with it.
#4312 of 4362 rear window defroster
Aug 31, 2006 (12:59 pm)
I bought a quadcab about a month ago which did not have the rear window defroster option. I asked the dealer roughly how much one would cost, he said that the window itself was $650 plus, but mentioned about a stick-on one from a parts store. The option is only $160 from factory. Has anyone done something like this before? Running wire is a pain but could be done, it would really be nice to see out the rear window in the winter. Thanks for any input - Tom
#4313 of 4362 Re: rear window defroster [broph]
Aug 31, 2006 (4:25 pm)
I have a cap on my truck and visability out the back window is nil. Most trucks have no rear window at all. It took me a while to get accostumed to using the side mirrors but now I can back up as well as any trucker using just the mirrors.
Perhaps you just need to start using your mirrors as they are meant to be used.
Another option would be to keep a rag in your truck and simply wipe off the rear window on those rare occasions it gets fogged up.
OR... you could always drive your Dakota like my wife does mine.... never EVER back up.
#4314 of 4362 Re: 2000 Dakota running rough... [me2butch4u]
Aug 31, 2006 (9:16 pm)
well, i would check and see how your mass air flow sensor is doing. what it does is regulate the ammount of air and gas mixture being put into the engine. that might be starting to go, and if the gas cap could have been bad, it could have been allowing moisture into the gas tank, and that moisture could have made the mass air flow sensor freak out
#4315 of 4362 03 brake problems
Sep 01, 2006 (3:09 am)
had warranty replacement of master cylinder and power assist unit. brakes are soft and need bled but dealer is either lazy or incompetent , puts more effort into smooth talking than into troubleshooting/repairing. I've been away from shade-tree
repairs for a while , what is the procedure for a home hack without a manual to bleed ABS brakes? Sounds like you guys have been through all of this and I hope you still visit the site to help us other poor fools.
#4316 of 4362 Re: rear window defroster [bpeebles]
Sep 01, 2006 (4:08 am)
I replaced my Silverado extcab with the Dakota and that's how I used to back that thing up, with the mirrors. After posting the query, I got to thinking that putting in a rear defroster would not be a good idea anyway. I eventually want to get a cap and it would be 1 more thing to go wrong. Thanks for the feedback.
#4317 of 4362 Re: 2000 Dakota running rough... [curious_gears]
Sep 01, 2006 (3:18 pm)
Dakota does not use MAF (MassAirFlow)sensor ... instead it uses MAP(Manifold Absolute Pressure)sensor.
MAF sensor is more accurate. It actually measures the mass of the airflow into the engine and automatically compensates for temparure and air-density. MAF is also more expensive and very sensitive to contamination. (Oiled-guaze airfilters can ruin a MAF sensor)
MAP is just a vacuum sensor in the intake manifold. The computer has to also take temparture readings and other sensor inputs to CALCULATE the amount of air entering the engine. MAP based systems are cheeper... but tend to be inaccurate. As airfilter starts to plug and air-density flucuates, its calculations are less than accurate.
ALSO: Moisture in the fuel has no affect WHATSOEVER on either MAF or MAP systems. The fuel never ever comes anywhere near either of the sensors.
#4318 of 4362 Re: Gas Guage problem? [mtrialsm]
Sep 02, 2006 (5:48 pm)
Have you solved the problem with the gas gauge? I have a 2002 dakota quad cab with the 4.7/auto that started the same problem. It started out a couple of weeks ago,intermittently, when the tank got low on fuel, but today the tank was 3/4 full the gauge went to empty and will not move.
#4319 of 4362 2003 QC 4.7L 2WD 3.92 - LSD Rear Diff Problems
Sep 06, 2006 (11:27 am)
At the 70K maintenance servicing at the dealer, I was advised during fluid levels checks that the rear differential fluids had traces of metal in the oil and further visual checks indicated that the LSD clutch retainers are broken and the mechanism has begun to slide from its normal position. The parts are on order and will replace when they arrive. There is absolutely no noise whatsoever but, they said it is ok to continue driving. I wonder if the gears are damaged? Has anyone experienced this situation with their Dakota or can offer some information on this? I am a normal sedate driver and am puzzled what could have caused it. Any recommendations are muchly appreciated. Specs - 2003 Quad Cab 4.7L 2WD LSD 3.92 5-45RFE Auto Trans.
Thanks in advance.