Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM
You are in the Dodge Dakota Owners-Archived Discussions
What is this discussion about?
Dodge Dakota, Truck
#4288 of 4362 Continuing problem with 1990 Dakota starting
Aug 07, 2006 (11:02 am)
Hello again. I posted a history of a problem with a 1990 Dodge Dakota on June 5th. It is posting #4227. I was in the US all of July and had a look at the pickup at my sister's house in Minneapolis and all seemed OK, but I am certainly no expert on auto electrics. I am back in Ireland now, and my daughter and son have driven from Minneapolis to Bismarck with no problems until Saturday when they stopped in a parking lot and went to a grocery store. When they got back, the engine would not turn-over from the ignition key.
However, when they tried the "jumper" trick described in #4227, the engine turned over fine and started and the problem hasn't repeated (as of today, Monday). While in Minneapolis, I spoke with my nephew who had the pickup for 3 years and also with the neighbor down the street who showed the nephew how to start the car. The technique is to take a piece of what looks like 14 gauge insulated copper wire like the kind used to wire outlets in the house, strip about 3/4 inch of insulation from either end and use that as the jumper. Then, near the battery, there is a push-in connector that, as I remember, has a red wire on the male half of the plug leading toward the firewall and maybe the ignition switch, and on the female side another red wire leading toward the battery. The technique is to pull the connection plug apart, stick one of the bare copper ends of the jumper into one of the two connector sockets on the female half and then turn the ignition switch to "on" and then touch the positive pole of the battery with the other bare copper end of the jumper. That engages the starter and starts the engine. My nephew says it was foolproof.
This pickup has been to two or three garages and one of them replaced the ignition switch and some wiring that runs along the steering column. The other two garages charged big bucks for changing every electrical part possible connected with the ignition system except for the solenoid and the starter. The most recent garage is convinced the headlights were left on and the battery was run-down, and that was why the engine wouldn't start.
The neighbor thinks it is a starter problem and thinks the garages were wrong for dismissing that possibility. He said when he checked for voltage at a time when the engine wouldn't start from the ignition switch (after the switch and wiring had been replaced, and after the pickup had been starting well for several months) he found voltage up to the plug I mentioned above, but nothing at all beyond it, even the dashboard lights not working. On this episode of Saturday, my son and daughter said the lights on the dashboard worked fine.
We would all be very grateful for any ideas that anyone might have of what is happening.
#4289 of 4362 Re: Thanks - coffee stain advice [colbates]
Aug 09, 2006 (6:00 am)
just became a member.. but saw your message and i feel for ya.. new truck and stain... only i clean carpets and apolstry (sp) one thing i've found with coffee stains.. are this.. if not treated with a proper cleaner to start with,, this will set the stain basically making it perminant. Best thing to do is use an apolstry cleaner like you listed.. while it is still wet.. did you use something else before resorting to what you listed.. just curous as it may have set the stain.
anway.. bla bla bla isall i hear from my self so i'll shut up...lol
Aug 09, 2006 (6:06 am)
Hey, i'm new.. i have a 1999 dodge dakota.. sport.. 2wd, 3.9 6cyl..
anyway here is my problem.. i just had the tensioner replaced. .. was charged 181 bucks for the part i realize this is too much.. anyway.. so not after paying the stupid bill...i'm stuck with a fan the is roaring like a woken bear. what is going on.. i checked the fan.. and it is actually loose to the touch.. it.. moves front to back.actually feels loose..was it the mechanic's fault for not tight'n properlly .. or is this a comcon problem the just has to be fixed every once in a blue moon????
Aug 09, 2006 (9:40 am)
A national newspaper is looking to interview consumers who have decided to hold on to their current pickup truck, rather than purchasing a new one. Please send an e-mail to ctalatiedmunds.com no later than Wednesday, August 9, 2006 by 2:30 PM PT/5:30 PM ET containing your daytime contact information and what pickup truck you currently own.
#4292 of 4362 2000 Dakota running rough...
Aug 09, 2006 (10:23 am)
HERE'S THE HISTORY: I have a 2000 dakota and wrote in a while ago about it running rough and backfiring. After COMPLETE tune-up, still running rough. I changed the throttle position sensor and it seemed to run fine for about a week. THEN...the check engine light came on and it began to run rough again. Took it to Autozone to check the code and it coded for a loose gas cap. (of all things). Just to be sure that it was a bad cap and not just loose, I had them reset the light and I ran it around for another week. It still ran rough and was back up to it's old pre-TPS replacement behavior. Check engine light came on again and again it coded for a loose gas cap. I replaced the gas cap yesterday and so far it is running better.
HERE'S THE QUESTION: Will the bad gas cap effect the way the truck runs? I am perplexed because this rough running and backfiring thing had been going on ever since I bought this thing and neither I nor the mechanic can figure it out. I am getting really frustrated with it and any other help would be greatly appreciated.
#4293 of 4362 Re: Engine Roaring Noise - Just Started [dustyk]
Aug 09, 2006 (1:26 pm)
Dusty.. i find that a little strange.. why is it then that my dakota.. which i've had for only 3 months now.. never made a noise from the fan clutch.. until after i took it to the mechanic to get the belt tensioner replaced... now it makes a rotten roaring noise.. that sounds like i'm driving a piece of crap.. the fan clutch assembly seems to have alot of play in it. would it be time to replace it?
#4294 of 4362 Re: Engine Roaring Noise - Just Started [firstdakota]
Aug 11, 2006 (2:41 pm)
The Dakota service manual states that there should be "no play" in the thermostatic Fan Clutch assembly. If you apply back-and-forth force to the fan blades in the axial position (attempting to move the fan blades in a line from the front to the rear of the vehicle), there should be no perceptible movement.
Another test is to spin the fan with a brisk motion. When fully warmed the fan should not rotate one revolution, and they typically move no more than one or two blades distance.
The noise is normal as previously described. I cannot offer a logical explanation at this time, except that maybe the belt was so loose that the fan was not receiving enough drive until the tensioner was replaced.
Aug 11, 2006 (3:07 pm)
Noise produced by the fan clutch on a Dakota is normal.
The Dakota uses a viscous clutch fan that permits reduced load and subsequent loss of horsepower at high speeds, yet increased cooling capacity at low speeds. These fans contain a silicone filled coupling that connects the fan blades to the water pump shaft. This design utilize a thermostatic bimetallic coil spring that reacts to the temperature of the radiator discharge air.
If the air temperature rises above a certain point, the bimetalic exerts pressure against a slip clutch and allows power of the water pump shaft to be transmitted through coupling to the fan assembly. This raises the speed of the fan blades and increases air flow through the radiator to provide increased cooling.
Sometimes after the vehicle has been driven to operating temperature the bimetalic spring may expand to the maximum coupling position due to localized heat from the engine or radiator after shutdown. After a cooling period the spring may not contract or contract fully. Upon restart the expanded spring causes the fan to spin at engine RPM until enough cool air has been drawn through the radiator, Then the spring contracts. This is what causes that momentary period when the fan is heard.
Testing the Fan Clutch Assembly
If the fan assembly free-wheels without drag for more than five revolutions when spun by hand, the fan clutch assembly is defective. This test must be conducted when the engine is completely cool.
Fan drive engagement begins between 165 to 180 degrees F.
There should be no perceptible lateral movement of the fan blades. If so, the fan assembly is defective.
#4296 of 4362 Re: Fan Noise [dustyk]
Aug 11, 2006 (4:32 pm)
Just to clarify.... when dusty says "Fan drive engagement begins between 165 to 180 degrees F."... this is refering to the AIR BEING PULLED FROM THE RADIATOR...not engine temparture.
I know that in over 6 years, my fanclutch has NEVER enguaged due to heat from the radiator. HOWEVER: my fanclutch enguages for about1 mile of driving when ambient temps are about 40 degrees. (this is also normal behaviour)The silicone fluid inside the fanclutch gets "thick" and takes some time for the centripital forces to move it around.
#4297 of 4362 Re: Fan Noise [bpeebles]
Aug 12, 2006 (5:48 am)
Bpeebles is correct.
Mine engages at very low temperatures (winter) but releases by the time the transmission is in second gear, and it's always done that even on the one that Dodge replaced a couple of years ago.