Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM
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Dodge Dakota, Truck
#4227 of 4362 1990 won't start
Jun 05, 2006 (9:15 am)
About 5 years ago in North Dakota, I bought a used 1990 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 L engine and automatic transmission with overdrive. My son and I drove it from to Minnesota then from there to Florida and back and left the pickup with my daughter who used it while spending the summer in Minnesota with my sister.
The daughter had an episode of the pickup stopping on a highway within coasting distance of a garage and the crew there diagnosed a burned ignition switch and wires. When the daughter came back home, she "willed" the pickup to my nephew, my sister's son. He found trouble, eventually, with the pickup starting. There was battery power but the starter wouldn't engage or spin (not sure which: this is being posted from across the Atlantic!). A neighbor down the alley from my sister showed him how to get it started, and I quote my nephew:
"As far as the electrical issues, it first seemed to have problems about 2 or 3 years ago in mid-winter. When I tried to start the truck, there would be battery power to the radio, lights, and everything like that but there would be no response by the engine whatsoever. The neighbor showed me that I could disconnect the battery from what I assumed was the starter, insert a simple copper wire into that connector, place the other end of the wire to a battery terminal with the key in the ON position and it would start the truck EVERY time. That worked every single time the truck wouldn't start until last winter when no there was no battery power."
This sounds to me like a solenoid or a starter motor problem. Like I say, it is at my sister's and she has had it to service stations but hasn't got it going yet. She tells me the battery cables and connectors at the battery have been replaced, as well as the distributor cap.
I thought I'd post this and see if anyone has seen the same problem, although I recognize that there isn't a lot of information being given to help with a diagnosis, never mind being sure what the problem is!
#4228 of 4362 Help me please
Jun 06, 2006 (2:37 am)
Ok here is my problem. We replaced the thermostat on my 98 Dodge Dakota and now the fan won't come on to cool the engine. some one told us to replace the relay switch that makes the fan come on at a certain temp. Where is it located at we think it is by the thermostat houseing. Cause when we unplug it the fan comes on.
#4229 of 4362 99 dakota water leak
Jun 08, 2006 (4:09 pm)
i have a '99 dodge dakota and whenever it rains just the passenger floor leaks and forms a puddle,does anyone know what the problem is, i am in desperate need of an answer.
Jun 08, 2006 (4:39 pm)
I recently posted that my check engine light had come on and that I had scanned code P0551 (Power steering sensor range/switch). I was about to purchase a new power steering switch when I decided to check the power steering fluid level, I discovered that it was slightly over filled (had the dealer change the fluid about 11 months ago) so I drained some fluid and erased the code. I have not had any further codes for the past 2 weeks. So checking the fluid level might be worthwhile if you are pulling this code.
#4231 of 4362 Re: engein swap [spillingvoid]
Jun 09, 2006 (8:08 am)
I put a magnum 318 inside my truck and did some modifications to it. Luckly it turns out my dad was expirienced in changing engines.
#4232 of 4362 Re: Stuck calipers on '97 Dakota WD [dakotaman1]
Jun 10, 2006 (11:19 am)
My son had a '91 Dakota that now has close to 300,000 miles on it. In the nine years he owned the vehicle he never replaced either of the factory calipers. I have not seen any evidence that the factory calipers are of poor or faulty quality or design. There are bound to be a population of Dakotas and calipers that will fail, but I don't believe this happens at a greater rate than anything else I see or work on.
You will find that aftermarket calipers utilize the same piston housing (since it's an OEM piece). The quality of the piston and seal materials can and do sometimes vary, but here I find the factory stuff just as good as the best aftermarket.
Assuming the seals are good and the piston and piston bore is clean, the caliper slide bolts are clean, lubricated and free of pitting, there is one item most overlooked.
There are only two ways that a piston will become stuck in the applied position. One, if the caliper is binding on the slide bolts and not returning to the unapplied position; or two, if pressure remains in the caliper housing keeping the pads applied.
When I see this scenario of only one caliper remaining applied on older vehicles I find that the brake hose from the caliper to the metal line is the cause. What happens is over time the rubber brake hose material begins to break down and effectively deteriorates on the inside. As it breaks down the rubber swells and closes the inside diameter of the hose to the point that it becomes completely closed up when there is no brake fluid pressure.
In this state when brake fluid pressure is applied the pressure force opens the inside of the hose enough to permit normal braking, but when the brake pedal is released the hose collapses internally trapping fluid under low pressure. This pressure is usually enough to force movement of the piston(s) and drag the pad on the rotor.
This back pressure on one rotor may not be noticeable as you drive, but under constant low pressure the pads drag enough to cause accelerated pad and rotor wear. You might also see a rotor "warp" on the affected side prematurely.
My advice: since it sounds like you've been struggling with this issue for a while, replace the rubber brake hose(s) and see what happens. Make sure the caliper slide bolts are in good condition. Replace them if there is any signs of corrosion. It's a cheap insurance.
One other thing about brake maintenance. Over time brake fluid in the master cylinder will absorb moisture. This moisture gets pumped downstream in the system, where it can cause internal rusting of the lines and other brake components. I know this isn't done very often, but flushing the brake system and replenishing with new fluid will go a long way in preventing future brake problems.
Good luck and best regards,
P.S. I've been away for a number of reasons, but mostly my stinking RoadRunner service has caused me to be incommunicado. It now appears to be fixed -- for the moment!
#4233 of 4362 Re: rear differental noise [dustyk]
Jun 10, 2006 (5:32 pm)
Dusty, I took your advice and changed the fluid. I put in
Valoline full syn for limited slip difs and after a day the noise disappeared. Strange that the dealership did not suspect this when I asked them to check it. Thanks for your help. John
#4234 of 4362 HELP!!! 2000 dakota bucking issue!!!
Jun 13, 2006 (2:30 pm)
I have a 2000 dakota 6 cyl automatic. When I first start the thing and take off with it, it is doggy and wont take the gas. It dies out and bucks and back-fires. Sometimes I can get it to come out of it by mashing the pedal to the floor until the passing gear kicks in and then let off it when it finally goes, but sometimes it wont work. Sometimes it just needs to go through its fit and then it will straighten out. Once I get it going, it will run fine as long as I dont shut it off and let it sit for a while. It also seems knumb on the acceleration when it is "running right", compared to my friends dakota. I have spent over a 1000 bucks at the garage trying to get it fixed. Mechanic says it is not showing any codes and he cant figure it out either. I trust this guy and have had 20 years of satisfied service from him. So far we have changed battery, complete tune up,O2 sensor, pcv valve, among other things. We are both pulling our hair out and I am going BROKE!!! Someone please help!!
#4236 of 4362 Major problem need some help to fix.
Jun 16, 2006 (6:25 pm)
Have a question someone help me. I have a 1998 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 V-6 with 64500 miles. The tranny seems to slip when up shifting and it idles ruff. The RPM gauge jumps between 800 and 900. There also seems to be some weird noise coming from some wear cant figure it out sounds like an bearing not a belt. Also it has no power when it is at normal freeway speed (60). Also when it is at normal speed it drives ruff and seems to want to die. Also when I go from drive to reverse to park the rpms jump to like 1200 and drop to 500 then to normal sometimes it drops so low it will suddenly die but start right back up. I know that is a lot but I dont want to go into a shop and get a huge bill for nothin someone give me some ideas to go on. This truck has low miles and I dont think it is something major.