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Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

4362 messages,  Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 9:06 PM

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What is this discussion about? Dodge Dakota, Truck


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#4218 of 4362
1998 dodge dakota 4wd slt v.8 by 98dodgeguy350
May 28, 2006 (7:12 pm)
i just bought this truck used and the check engine light the washer fluid light and the gas light stay on and i dont know why please help also i need to know if anyone knows where i can get a owners manual for my 98 dodge dakota 4wd slt v.8 thanks
 
joshua sandker
#4219 of 4362
Re: 1998 dodge dakota 4wd slt v.8 [98dodgeguy350] by ronslakie1
May 30, 2006 (4:54 am)

Replying to: 98dodgeguy350 (May 28, 2006 7:12 pm)

Jpshua - Usually ebay is a good source for Factory Service Manuals at a good price.
 
Ron
#4220 of 4362
Re: uneven pad wear [dustyk] by dakotaman1
May 30, 2006 (5:11 am)

Replying to: dustyk (Jan 04, 2004 10:19 am)

HI Dusty, or anyone else who can please comment.
 
I've read w/ interest the discussions about uneven pad wear, which I think is a perennial problem w/ the /97 Dakota.
 
I did my first front axle brake job 36K, and the Left was massively UNeven (inside pad gone and wasted inside of rotor. You know the story. Right side set of pads were evenly worn and "normal' looking. (Replaced pads but rt. rotor was fine.)
 
26K miles later, same song: repeat pattern on Left side; Right side even and "normal". I had Rt. rotor turned; new Left side rotor - AGAIN!
 
Sounds like the real culprit here is the caliper assembly! My question is WHY? I've read variously that OEM Dakota calipers are WORSE than aftermarket. Any confirmation or explanations of this?
 
Also, I believe Dusty mentioned tht post-2001, Dakota went w/ dual plumgers, whih may have alleviated this (distributing the force from both sides).
 
Any comments or thoughts on this nagging problem are welcome!
 
DakotaMan
 
Bonus Q:
Does anyone know the size of the front axle (spindle?) nut? 35mm? 36mm? Very curious ...
#4221 of 4362
Re: uneven pad wear [dakotaman1] by hasel
May 30, 2006 (5:44 am)

Replying to: dakotaman1 (May 30, 2006 5:11 am)

You need to check for a sticking piston in the caliper,
#4222 of 4362
Stuck calipers on '97 Dakota WD by dakotaman1
May 31, 2006 (12:01 pm)
I posted this message as a "reply" to a dated post (#4220; p.212); since no replies, I'm afraid it was buried. Here goes:
 
HI Dusty, or anyone else who can please comment.
  
I've read w/ interest the discussions about uneven pad wear, which I think is a perennial problem w/ the /97 Dakota.
  
I did my first front axle brake job 36K, and the Left was massively UNeven (inside pad gone and wasted inside of rotor. You know the story. Right side set of pads were evenly worn and "normal' looking. (Replaced pads but rt. rotor was fine.)
  
26K miles later, same song: repeat pattern on Left side; Right side even and "normal". I had Rt. rotor turned; new Left side rotor - AGAIN!
  
Sounds like the real culprit here is the caliper assembly! My question is WHY? I've read variously that OEM Dakota calipers are WORSE than aftermarket. Any confirmation or explanations of this?
  
Also, I believe Dusty mentioned that post-2001, Dakota went w/ dual plumgers, whih may have alleviated this (distributing the force from both sides).
  
Any comments or thoughts on this nagging problem are welcome!
  
DakotaMan
  
Bonus Q:
Does anyone know the size of the front axle (spindle?) nut? 35mm? 36mm? Very curious ...
#4223 of 4362
02 dakota 4.7 check engine code p 0455? by sleded
Jun 01, 2006 (5:42 pm)

Replying to: ronslakie1 (May 28, 2006 5:56 am)

hey guys im new this the board and i love it already!! i was wondering if anyone knew what that code means? i took the truck in the other day for the check engine light and it was the gas cap!! so he fixed it and today the check engine light came on again. i think its the gas cap but who knows hope u guys can help me out
  
thanks
  
eric
#4224 of 4362
P0463, P0551 by dritten01
Jun 01, 2006 (5:54 pm)
this is my first post, and I am glad I found this site. I have a 2000 4.7 dakota 4x4. Check engine lite on with these codes, but my bigger problem is that all of a sudden a couple of weeks ago my truck is taking 2-3 cranks to get started. Once started it runs great. any ideas? I thought maybe a bad injector, but getting same fuel mileage. today I am also hearing a loud ticking for the first 5 min or so after starting. It eventually goes away
#4225 of 4362
when should i change my transmission fliud by sleded
Jun 04, 2006 (6:49 pm)
just wondering when i should change the fluid on my 4.7 02 dakota. it has 85,000km on it and my buddy told me to change it twice a year? thanks guys
#4226 of 4362
Re: when should i change my transmission fliud [sleded] by sunburn
Jun 05, 2006 (3:46 am)

Replying to: sleded (Jun 04, 2006 6:49 pm)

Is it a manual or automatic transmission? If it is an automatic, then at either 30K of 60K miles. If you do any significant towing, then 30K. Otherwise, 60K miles.
#4227 of 4362
1990 won't start by tjfitz
Jun 05, 2006 (10:15 am)
About 5 years ago in North Dakota, I bought a used 1990 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 L engine and automatic transmission with overdrive. My son and I drove it from to Minnesota then from there to Florida and back and left the pickup with my daughter who used it while spending the summer in Minnesota with my sister.
 
The daughter had an episode of the pickup stopping on a highway within coasting distance of a garage and the crew there diagnosed a burned ignition switch and wires. When the daughter came back home, she "willed" the pickup to my nephew, my sister's son. He found trouble, eventually, with the pickup starting. There was battery power but the starter wouldn't engage or spin (not sure which: this is being posted from across the Atlantic!). A neighbor down the alley from my sister showed him how to get it started, and I quote my nephew:
 
"As far as the electrical issues, it first seemed to have problems about 2 or 3 years ago in mid-winter. When I tried to start the truck, there would be battery power to the radio, lights, and everything like that but there would be no response by the engine whatsoever. The neighbor showed me that I could disconnect the battery from what I assumed was the starter, insert a simple copper wire into that connector, place the other end of the wire to a battery terminal with the key in the ON position and it would start the truck EVERY time. That worked every single time the truck wouldn't start until last winter when no there was no battery power."
 
This sounds to me like a solenoid or a starter motor problem. Like I say, it is at my sister's and she has had it to service stations but hasn't got it going yet. She tells me the battery cables and connectors at the battery have been replaced, as well as the distributor cap.
 
I thought I'd post this and see if anyone has seen the same problem, although I recognize that there isn't a lot of information being given to help with a diagnosis, never mind being sure what the problem is!

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