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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota Owners-Archived Discussions Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions 
4362 messages, Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 9:06 PM
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Replying to: dunn4 (Dec 14, 2005 4:45 pm)
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Well, it finally did it. Water pump failed on my '97 Dakota Sport (2WD auto). The symptoms came ever so gradually, and I must confess that - like a dope - I never bothered to flush my coolant: My Bad. Last July I noticed that the AC didn't seem to work very well: blamed it on the intense heat of NC. In recent weeks here in NJ, I noticed that the heater didn't work very well: blamed it on ultra cold weather. One day, I noticed that my temp gauge was a bit erratic - doing excursion to >220F then back down to a normal 190F. Later that evening, things got much worse and the gauge redlined  260F and I pulled it over immediately. Note that this came with no "warnings" such as a noise, etc. though I confess that I didn't check for leaks under engine (never sensed a problem before). At this point, however, the "weep hole" had opened up on the bottom of the water pump and most of you know the rest of the story. The coolant was rather rust-colored. 1) OK, I had the pump replaced and was advised NOT to flush the system now as things had rusted to the point that this may invite more problems, as leaks in the radiator or freeze plugs. I'd like to know if anyone has had this experience and agrees with this position? 2) I was also told that the condition of the coolant over time caused the pump bearing to fail. Any thoughts on this? 3) What is the relationship between a failed pump bearing and the "weep hole" deciding to open up and drain the coolant? I'm very curious about this. 4) Regarding the earlier cooling heating symptoms, I was told that the condition of the coolant over time did a job on the heater core, which I find believable. Is there any magic liquid I could add to the coolant that would help remove the "plaque/cholesterol" from the heater core to help restore it? Then maybe I could simply drain (remove case plug) and replenish the coolant at intervals to rid the gunk ... 5) As I had mentioned in an earlier post, I noticed (as have many other Dodge owners) the elusive "Check Engine" light come and go. I wonder if this could have been somehow related to the impending pump failure - either a sensor of the bearing state, coolant level (mine had probably been falling over time), or some other related variable? I checked the P-codes I have access to and did not see anything obvious. I realize these are a lot of Qs, and I did research the data base on this forum before posting this. I did not see any similar Qs posted. If anyone could please entertain this, I'm sure we could all learn something. Thanks, DakotaMan 
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Replying to: dakotaman1 (Dec 20, 2005 8:35 am) 2. Yes, coolant also has a lubricant in it and in time will cause the pump to fail if not maintained. 3. See #2. Seals will fail of their own accord but slack in the bearings will take the seals out in a heartbeat. 4. Again, have the system professionally flushed if you don't have the equipment to properly back-flush it, this will also take care of the heater core. 5. Possibly related to the coolant level but doubtful.
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My '03 Dakota Quad (V6) has approx. 41k miles. Noticed yesterday that during idle the heater did not work, actually blew cold air. As I drove it started pumping out warmer air and the more I drove it seemed to get hotter. However, the minute I would slow down or stop the air would cool. Based on what I read on this site it seems like a coolant issue. But since I'm not a "car guy" I thought I run it past the experts. Thanks and have a good holiday season (PC).
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Replying to: jneal (Dec 20, 2005 9:08 am) As for (2), are you saying that the lubricant in my coolant eventually dimished, and that may have led to the bearing failure? As for (5), it'll be interesting to see if my intermittent Check Engine light now goes away ... I forgot to mention that my Dakota has only 57K miles on her. I wonder if Dusty is still out there? Penny for his thoughts ...
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Replying to: hoosier1bucki (Dec 20, 2005 10:13 am) *) Air trapped in the system *) Thermostat problem *) waterpump not pumping *) Use of incorrect antifreeze that will "GELL" when mixed with HOAT antifreeze....thus plugging the system. |
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I can't keep new blades from squeaking after 3 months! Seems like the wiper arm blade spring is very strong and causes the new blades to deform while just sitting in the rest position. Then when it rains the blades start sqeaking in a few months,,,I've tried just about all the brands and they all do this. The blades on my 2005 Highlander are over a year old and are not squeaking! Oh, well,,,,MERRY CHRISTMAS to all,,,,,, P.S. I've decide to buy Yokohama Geolander tires. Mick 2001 QUAD, 2WD. 64k miles.
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Replying to: hoosier1bucki (Dec 20, 2005 10:13 am) |
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Replying to: dakotaman1 (Dec 20, 2005 10:55 am) Water pumps should last more than 57K but it isn't unusual for one to fail at that mileage. I replaced the original water pump on my '93 Dak at 117K but I have replaced many others at a lot less mileage than that.
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Replying to: mtrialsm (Dec 21, 2005 10:13 am) Basiclly; **Natural rubber will "wipe" the best... but tends to degrade the fastest in sunlight. Also tends to deform faster when parked. (not being used) **Synthetic rubber is tougher and can resist UV light... but does not "wipe" nearly as well. (some are a composite of natural/synthetic... these tend to be a good compromize) I recommend BOSCH as perhaps the best wiper blades. Since you have tried several different brands/types of wipers...lets take another approach at your problem. First, make CERTAIN that the glass is squeeky-clean. You may have gotten some type of silicone or other oil on the glass which is VERY difficult to remove. (There are not many chemicals that will remove silicone from glass) I am guessing that you must have used some kind of wax containing silicone and it "bled" down on to the glass when it rained. Use plenty of muscle to scrub the glass and scrub in at least 2 different directions. There is a little-known "adjustment" that can make a HUGE difference in wiper performance. The angle at which they contact the glass can be "tweaked" by slightly twisting the wiper-arm. This is most easilly done using a cresent-wrench clamped down on the arm near the wiper end and applying some "twist" in the desired direction. Also, in reference to your comment on the wipers taking on a "set" while at rest.... I usually slide out the rubbers and re-install in the other direction to compensate for that phenomenon. I have been able to DOUBLE the useful life of wiper blades in this mannor. Also, DO NOT get rid of the original wipers from your Dakota... if you look closely at them and count the number of "holders" for the rubbers, you will see that the originals are "special" because they have additional holders for the rubbers. (A very good measure of a windsheild-wiper quality is the number of holders for the rubbers....more is better) Besides, it is better to replace JUST THE RUBBER and not the entire thing. It is a HUGE waste of money to replace a perfectly good part.
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