Last post on Oct 18, 2006 at 8:06 PM
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Dodge Dakota, Truck
#3530 of 4362 Re: Question for Dusty (or anyone else)... [dataguru]
Jul 18, 2005 (6:19 pm)
My squeak back two years ago turned out to be the ball joints needing grease, which was performed by the dealer and did resolve the problem. Earlier Dakotas suffered from squeaks caused by the sway bar bushings. Oddly, mine have never given me that symptom. I was told that they made a running change to a different bushing material in 2003.
Now my front-end "clunk," or I would say more appropriately a snap, turned out to be the upper right ball joint. Mrs. Dodge replaced both upper for me a week or so ago and now the front end is quiet and tight.
#3531 of 4362 Re: Electrical Problems [dustyk]
Jul 19, 2005 (2:38 am)
Is the CTM an easy module to check/replace? Approx. cost?
#3532 of 4362 Re: Electrical Problems [bpeake]
Jul 19, 2005 (6:44 am)
I had a simular problem on my 2001 Quad 2 years ago. The ignition switch was
replace by dealer. Fixed my problem.
#3533 of 4362 starting problems-1995 dakota
Jul 19, 2005 (10:18 am)
hello 1st timer--- starter will "click" sometimes for awhile then engine will start. other times the engine will start on 1st try, for about 5 or 10 start ups then back to the click-click-clicking again to get it started. plz lol any help out there tks clutch_it
#3534 of 4362 Re: Question for Dusty (or anyone else)... [dustyk]
Jul 19, 2005 (2:41 pm)
Glad to hear your rig is tracking tight and quiet again. Have you notice any signs of the shock absorbers going soft causing more body roll now than when new?
My '03 QC has a late May 2003 Build Date so the upper ball joint Recall does not apply according to the dealer. They reference an official list of VIN numbers to which the ball joint Recall applies. To alleviate the concerns of 2003 owners, DCX has extended the ball joints warranty for all 2003 owners not affected by the Recall to 10 years from Date of Purchase.
#3535 of 4362 Engine light- first, second cylinder misfire
Jul 19, 2005 (4:43 pm)
Did anybody run into similar problem? Engine light goes on and off for quite a long time, but it seems not to harm performance. Unfortunately, I had to go through emission test and it failed because of cylinder misfire. Anybody has any suggestions. Thanks!
#3536 of 4362 97 4x4 lower control arm bushings
Jul 20, 2005 (12:13 pm)
Howdy from a first timer.
I replaced the upper and lower ball joints this weekend with Moog parts. Boy, this thing rides GREAT now! However, while the lower control arms were out, I noticed the bushings were shot. Everywhere I've checked, no one sells replacement bushings; they aren't even cataloged anywhere. The dealer wants to replace the entire control arm ($585 for each #*$&^$#^% arm!). That's ridiculous! BTW, I didn't mention that the front end is torsion bar, not springs.
Is there any way to replace these bushings? I can't afford $1100+ in parts!
#3537 of 4362 interior lights and aftermarket alarms
Jul 20, 2005 (8:49 pm)
i own an '01 quad cab and installed an aftermarket alarm. 3 months later the alarm completely quit working and all interior lights are stuck on. i was given the advice that a switch was stuck inside the door and WD40 needed to be applied. is this a possibility and where is a switch or relay for the interior lights at, is it accesible without removing door panel? i have no idea and would appreciate any advice thanks
#3538 of 4362 Re: Electrical Problems [bpeake]
Jul 21, 2005 (3:36 pm)
Yes. The CTM is located behind the left cowl side trim panel just below the instrument panel. This trim panel located between the body and the parking brake foot lever. I am not aware of the price. I think its about $100, but not sure.
The problem with replacing the CTM is that this module is easily damaged by another electrical problem, such as a short to vehicle frame (ground), a bad input or output device, or intermittent electrical connections.
#3539 of 4362 Re: Question for Dusty (or anyone else)... [dataguru]
Jul 21, 2005 (3:43 pm)
I can't say I've noticed any change in body lean. I have the Club Cab Sport Plus which includes a rear sway bar. I also keep my tires at the high end of the pressure range, so maybe the two together compensate.
What I have noticed, however, is bounce at certain speeds on certain types of pavement and a lot more suspension travel during some pavement undulations. This I'm pretty sure is because the shocks have softened up.
Do you have a suggestion for shock replacements?