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Dodge Dakota, Truck
#2627 of 4362 Re: Chrysler Tire Certification Label
Jan 16, 2004 (5:43 pm)
In an earlier post someone commented that the tire certification label found on the drivers door jamb of Dodge pick-ups had a history of being inaccurate. The other day I heard a conversation about the tire certification label "listing the wrong tires" for a competitive make truck.
Upon investigation it appears that the Tire Certification Label -- and Dodge specifically, at least -- is not intended to represent the tires that are installed at the factory.
The Tire Certification Label lists the MINIMUM rim size and tire required for the vehicle as equipped from the factory, as well as the cold tire air pressures for the MINIMUM tire requirements.
It is not intended to indicate that the tires installed at the factory match the Tire Certification Label.
By the way, I did find this information in my 2003 Dakota service manual (page 22-6).
#2628 of 4362 Greasing Upper / Lower Ball Joints
Jan 17, 2004 (7:20 pm)
First I want to thank you and the forum for the great suggestion to use a needle injection valve to grease the front end of my 01 Dakota. I had the bushings replaced at about 20000 miles and now at 50000 miles I am hearing that irritating squeaking noise again. A little grease and all is better.
Now to my question, you said that you used the needle injection to grease the upper and lower ball joints. Can you be more specific and tell me exactly what to do. I am not very knowledgeable with cars / trucks but with some help I can get by.
Thanks in advance.
#2629 of 4362 Another coincidence?
Jan 18, 2004 (4:50 pm)
A few weeks ago an acquaintance at work told me he was having trouble with his 2000 Dakota intermittently stalling, hesitation and exhibiting a rough idle (60K miles). He said it flashed a "Check engine" lamp once or twice earlier this fall, but for no apparent reason. Everything seemed okay, the gauges were normal.
He had it in to his independent auto center where they replace the spark plugs, air filter and cleaned the injectors. He said it appeared to be idling better overall, but said within a day it went back to this intermittent pattern.
Three weeks ago he started the truck up and at the very first stop the engine died. This time it would not restart. In fact, the lights were dim and the battery appeared to be discharged. He put a new battery in that very same day.
I talked to him a little while ago and he said that since he's replaced the battery his Dakota has run like a watch! Is it my imagination, or have I read something similar in here once before? I believe this is the second time I have heard of a engine performance problem that disappeared after a battery failure and subsequent replacement on a Dakota.
Jan 19, 2004 (7:06 am)
was told by dealer that if battery voltage drops below 12volts it causes problems with computer, my 1999 Dakota had this problem due to a bad battery.it would start but would not run good,battery was replace and it solved the problem.
#2631 of 4362 battery replaced
Jan 19, 2004 (5:27 pm)
The dealer replaced my battery free, because of
rough idle. 2001 Quad, V8,auto,etc. 35K miles.
#2632 of 4362 Greasing Ball Joints
Jan 20, 2004 (6:30 am)
dapeppe - I insert the needle somewhere in the mid section of the rubber bladder and give 3 or 4 pumps on the grease gun. Then I feel the bladder to see how full it is to determine if it need s a few more pumps. Most times I have not experienced any grease leakage after withdrawing the needle. It is not really very complicated. By the way the needles frequently come in a set of 2 different sizes, I have used the larger size simply to reduce the number of pumps.
#2633 of 4362 4.7 2002 oil fill cap
Jan 20, 2004 (5:29 pm)
I changed my oil today and when puting in the new oil I noticed a very light film of what looked like rust on part of the cap and inside the fill neck.Had 4000 miles on the oil and checked it and there was no water in the oil and was dark but still somewhat clean.It smelled ok.Is this condensation from humid weather or what? It has 42000 on it runs great never had a problem . Thanks I'm in tx.
#2634 of 4362 4.7 2002 oil fill cap
Jan 20, 2004 (5:43 pm)
(roper2) What you are seeing is the residue of the "snot problem". In the very early 4.7L engines, the inside of oil-fill tube would get coated with a thick coating of oil-water emulsion (aka snot). To help alleviate this problem the design of the cap was changed (it is no longer hollow) and a "baffle" is inserted into the oil-fill tube. (you should be pulling it out and wiping it clean regularly)
Many folks changed to using synthetic oil which greatly reduced the 'snot' buildup.
How do I know all of this.... I have an early 2000 4.7L and was perhaps the first one to report this 'snot' problem in late 1999. Within 6 months, Damlier-Chrysler had redesigned the cap twice and added the baffle. (My dak was one of the first to get these 'upgrades')
The baffle does not reduce the buildup of 'snot' very much but it does HIDE it. That is why the baffle should be pulled out and wiped clean regularly (especially in cold weather)
I could explain how this emulsion originates and why it builds up in the oil-fill tube... you can read all the gory details in the archives (look in the winter of 1999-2000)
#2635 of 4362 oil fill cap
Jan 20, 2004 (6:04 pm)
bpebbles thanks a lot for the info.on this .I will clean it tomorrow and check out the 1999-2000 page. dennis
#2636 of 4362 bpeebles - Oil Cap
Jan 21, 2004 (9:06 am)
My QC was built in 3/2000 and I have the same issue with the oil fill cap. I regularly check and wipe it out. You post that fill tube was replaced. I still have the original one. Was there a recall or TSB?