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Dodge Dakota, Truck
#1041 of 4362 WIX oil filter number for 4.7 Magnum
Aug 07, 2001 (3:56 am)
Would someone please tell me the WIX oil filter
number for the 4.7 Magnum. Thanks! Bill in NY
#1042 of 4362 Oil Study Results
Aug 07, 2001 (4:53 pm)
At 11.9K, I started taking samples of 4.7L's crankcase oil in for analysis. After three (3) tests (11.9K, 14.1K, 17.3K), wear metals and oil condition / contaminants appear to be normal. I've done this to provide a base line to periodically compare against as the QC and I grow old together.
With approx. 4K miles on the last oil sample, the Wear Metals (parts per million) are: Copper5, Iron39, Chrome2, Lead0, Aluminum6, Silicon10, Molybdenum8, Sodium11, Tin1.
Oil Conditions are: WaterNegative, FuelPositive (normal in gas engines), AntifreezeNegative, Soot0% allowable, Oxidation49% allowable, Nitration93% allowable, Sulphur Products46% allowable.
I'm concerned about the nitration and sulphur since these appear to be elevated but this might be due the short (6 mile) trips to and from work.
#1043 of 4362 Spark plugs, rotors, rear shocks
Aug 11, 2001 (7:04 pm)
Does anybody replace any of mentioned above. I just bought Bosch platinum plugs. They're supposed to be much better than original cheap Champions. Hopefully they're not to good. At the beginning engine had some delay when pressing the accelerator, probably the ignition had to adjust. After few miles everything went to normal. I wonder if the new plugs are gonna improve gas mileage and overall performance. Anybody has changed creepy rotors or shocks. I just hit 30K, and I am going to change transmission fluid. Would you recommend synthec and having the trany flushed. Please share your experience.
Aug 12, 2001 (10:40 am)
I put the Bosch Platnum + in my 97 with 5.2. Have not noticed any significant difference in performance or mileage nor did I expect too. Plugs can only do so much and the main thing is how long they last. I hope to get quite a few miles out of them as I am too old and weak to change them again.
I just replaced the shocks all around with Edelbrock Performer IASs. Not enough travel yet to form an opinion. Decided to try these as I like performance handling but I also wanted some travel for the bumps and so on. They so far seem to be a decent shock.
Transmission fluid, it has been said on this forum many times, DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN THE CORRECT MOPAR FLUID. Many shops replace with other types of ATF and claim it is compatable and the next thing you know it shifts like crap and need a rebuild that won't be covered by warranty.
#1045 of 4362 Fluids, spark plugs.
Aug 12, 2001 (3:02 pm)
Thanks namfflow for your response. I've been also looking for an improvement with better plugs. From what you said it means nothing really matters to that big engine. I was thinking about changing all fluids to synthetic. I may be wrong, but I think that on some other forum I read that some manufactures including GM and Chrysler put synthecs and than they stretch maintenance intervals to 100K (on transmissions). Thanks for further discussion.
#1047 of 4362 tire thoughts
Aug 12, 2001 (5:27 pm)
my 00,slt,4x2,quad cab has 28,000 miles and it looks like i will need new rubber before christmas.these were the standard issue goodyear ,15 inch tires.....
anybody got any favorites for wear,ride,and mostly on road use?there is no snow where i'm moving to just tons of heavy rain.
ps;factory tires were rotated every 5k.
Aug 12, 2001 (7:21 pm)
I replaced my OEM Goodyear Invictas 215/75-15 on my 97 with Pirelli Scorpion Zeros 255/60-15. Fit on the rim nicely and stick like glue. A little smaller diameter but not significant. Great in the rain. Have about 30K and still going strong. I expect to get about 40K out of them.
Plan on putting these on my 01 also.
Another good choice is the Dunlop Sport Rover GTX in 235/70-15.
#1049 of 4362 4.7 Coolant Change
Aug 14, 2001 (5:50 am)
Has anyone installed a Prestone T flush kit on there 4.7 cooling system and if so were there any special considerations and instructions on installation? Also I noticed that that just behind the pressure cap of my 2K Dak (4.7) there is an allen nut labeled coolant bleed. I have checked my factory service manual and I can't find any reference to this. In my past experience I have always bled the air out of my coolant system through the pressure cap. Can anyone shed any light on this?
#1050 of 4362 4.7 Coolant Change
Aug 14, 2001 (9:36 am)
(ron35) The 4.7L V8 Hemi has not been available long enough to require a cooant change yet.
It utilizes the new LOOONG LIFE coolant that does not requre constant changing. Changing the coolant is simply a waste of your time and $$. This is one reason that the BOB does not detail the coolant flushing procedure.
Be aware that the 4.7L V8 Hemi uses a BYPASS cooling system that mounts the thermostat down low on the engine. This type of system has several advantages over the ol' "thermostat on the top of the engine" design. The main benifet is that that this type of system actually maintins the ENGINE temperature and not simply the COOLANT temparture.
This is accomplished by ALWAYS flowing at least 50% of the coolant all of the time coupled with controlled "blending" of the hot/cold (engine out / radiator out) flows to maintain the temperature. Even during warmup when the flow thru the radiator is NONE... the flow is maintained thru the engine to distribute the thermal mass.
What does this mean to somone wanting to "flush" the cooling system?
Since the thermostat will be "in the way" of a total flushing, it would be best to pull the hoses and flush each section individually. (Radiator, Engine, Heater core) Do not bother with the silly "flush kit" that will not get to all areas anyway.
If you REALLY want to do somthing that will proloing the life of your rig, Ignore the coolant and flush the hydrolic systems. (Brakes, Clutch, auto tranny... etc).