Last post on Dec 20, 2001 at 6:21 AM
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#94 of 280 Paint chips and wheels
Mar 06, 2001 (5:51 pm)
Hi guys..... I have one comment and question:
Let me begin by informing you that I own a 2000 Legacy GT Ltd. I bought the car in November of 1999. During the first 6 months of ownership I discovered about a dozen paint chips on my hood. They were everywhere and looked very ugly. Not knowing this was occurring to many Subaru owners I just took it to my body shop and had the hood repainted. Not one paint chip since then. This tells me it was the quality or application of the original paint and not my highway driving. The only reason I mentioned this was because someone brought it up in an earlier post.
My question is: What is the correct torque specifications for the OEM wheels?? I just had 4 new tires mounted and balanced on my car and I know they used an air ratchet to tighten the wheels. This has always been a concern of mine and I wanted to know what the correct torque figures were?? I had my rotors replaced 6 months ago under warranty so I don't want anything to contribute to this problem again.
Also, what's the best way to remove a door ding? I just got one from an SUV and almost pulled the guy out through his window. I exchanged words but he drove off after claiming he couldn't see anything. After washing my car, it was evident. Please help.
#95 of 280 Torque Question
Mar 07, 2001 (3:30 pm)
This may not totally help you but I have a Haynes manual for 1990-1998 Legacies and on Chapter 1 it states wheel lug nuts torque should be 72 Ft-lbs.
You have a 2000 GT so it may be slightly different so you may want to buy one that applies to your year/model or check your local library since they have automotive repair manuals there. Good luck.
Mar 08, 2001 (7:27 am)
Sounds about right. Try 65-75 lb-ft for alloys, 75-80 lb-ft for steel wheels.
Mar 09, 2001 (11:50 pm)
Hi Mark I have a 87 GL wagon with 247000 miles on it and I had the same kind of sound but only when I was making a turn. I found out it was a worn out axle shaft that needed to be replaced. The end of the axle has spines that match up in rotor/wheel and these were worn. It was a fairly easy job to do. I got some used parts from a local pull and save yard and did it myself. I figured since I bought the car for $100 I am not going to put that much $ into it. It has been a very good car though even with the high mileage but I have been having a problem with it overhearing. I have heard that these yr of cars are notorious for the heads to crack and I suspect this is what has happened to mine. I still use it to commute to work in the summertime. I work for the Forest Service in a and drive 90 miles a day on mountainous road to my station. I have to carry extra H2o to refill when it does get hot but its still good to go.
Mar 12, 2001 (6:59 am)
Keep it going! Man, that is sweet!
Pretty soon you'll join the quarter million mile club! Any pix? Please share!
Mar 13, 2001 (5:56 pm)
Sorry got no pictures. Thanks for comment though. Pinchydelrios.
#100 of 280 Mileage expectations for '95 Legacy L AWD?
Mar 19, 2001 (5:16 am)
I just bought a '95 Legacy L AWD sedan w/75K miles about three weeks ago. Now that I've gotten over how much better it is than the '90 Escort wagon it replaced, I have a couple of questions I hope more experienced owners might be able to help with. first, I am getting only about 20MPG after first 3 fillups in about 1/3 highway, 2/3 city/stop and go. The original EPA estimates were about 24city/28highway. Is this usual or are there things to do. Second, during highway driving I see that for the 1st 5 minutes or so, I see about 3200RPM 70MPH, which then drops to 2800 thereafter. Is this what the final drive should be? I couldn't find anything in the owners manual and haven't had a chance to get ahold of fancier manual. Which is better, Chiltons or Haynes? Thanks for any response and I'm glad to be back to Subaru after about 10 years.
Mar 19, 2001 (6:13 am)
Not sure about the rpm, but it sounds like it's not going into overdrive soon enough, so I'd at least have the ATF drained and refilled.
It should have a new timing belt, too. Given it's age, whatever you don't have records for I'd do, so that you get a baseline for future service. That would include the basic 60k service, or items like:
oil and filter change
Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner
spark plug wires
inspect/change all belts/hoses
consider balance and alignment too
distributor cap & rotor (if applicable)
bleed brakes, inpsect/change pads
check power steering fluid
Sounds like a long list but you could do most of them yourself.
#102 of 280 Need Help in Purchasing a 1998 or 1999 Legacy Wagon
Mar 29, 2001 (3:26 pm)
I am new to the forum, but i need some help in choosing a Legacy Wagon 1998 or 1999 are their certain models to avoid? are their common problems i need to keep my eyes open for ? I think I want an Outback (Wagon)but I do like the Wagons that have the power Antannas what Model are those and I dunno I just need any Helpful advice in choosing a good Legacy thanks everyone .
Mar 30, 2001 (5:59 am)
Hi Paul, recognize me from the chat last night? It's juice.
This is an inactive topic, so you're better off going to the Owners Clubs, then Subaru Crew.
98 and 99 had the Outback, Legacy 2.5 GT, GT Limited, and Outback Limited (from cheapest to most expensive).
Both are good years. All have the same Phase I 2.5l DOHC engine, with 165hp and 162 lb-ft of torque. You can get 5 speeds or autos on each, but the early Limiteds were auto only.
Resale value is very high, so beware. You may want to consider a new one - they are not much more expensive.
IMHO, problems will stand out like a sore thumb. When you test drive, turn off the radio and listen carefully. The engine should idle smoothly, the tranny should shift with precision, and there should be no gear whine, brake squeeking, or shakes/rattles that stand out.
The good news is that the powertrain warranty goes for 60 months/60k miles, so most of these will still be under warranty.