Last post on Aug 22, 2006 at 1:43 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Camry Solara, Toyota Camry, Sedan
#4063 of 5279 Overheating and steam out of vents, replaced t/stat
Oct 06, 2005 (4:51 pm)
I have a 1993 Toyota V6 Camry. It seems to intermittently over heat. I changed out the thermostat.
The cooling system does hold pressure.
It will boil over.
With the radiator cap removed and the car at operating temperature I can not see the coolant circulating.
Water does not come out of the exhaust.
With the heat on I get a fog out of the vents.
Do I have two problems?
A bad water pump and leaking heater core?
#4064 of 5279 Re: Overheating and steam out of vents, replaced t/stat [kevink1855]
Oct 06, 2005 (5:13 pm)
Most antifreeze contains ethylene glycol as the antifreeze/anti-boil agent. If you have a ruptured heater core, you would probably notice a "sweet" odor inside the car from the ethylene glycol* (assuming you're not running your car's cooling system on water alone). Coolant should ALWAYS be up to the lower rim of the radiator opening. In a properly working cooling system, any coolant overflow will be caught by the plasric overflow tank connected to the radiator cap opening with a rubber hose and drawn back into the radiator by the vacuum that forms in the closed system as the engine cools down after shutoff. If the coolant level is consistently decreasing, it's leaking out under pressure. Other leakage sources are a blown cylinder head gasket, a leaking radiator, a bad radiator cap, a bad seal at the thermostat housing, a bad water pump seal, and/or failed radiator and/or heater hose(s). I'm also assuming when you replaced the thermostat, you didn't inadvertently position the new one bass-ackward.
*I have no idea what the so-called low-tox antifreezes which use propylene glyclol smell like.
#4065 of 5279 Re: Camry: bad experiences [micromike123]
Oct 06, 2005 (6:34 pm)
I second user777's advice. ABS does NOT cause longer stopping distances, except in fresh wet snow or on loose surfaces like gravel. If your brake pedal must be pushed extra hard, again it's not the ABS. You have some kind of other problem, possibly a faulty vacuum booster.
As user777 said, how does your car compare with your friends' Camry and Altima? You're not totally clear on that point.
Regarding the bumper cover re-paint, unfortunately it's not all that uncommon for dealers to improperly fix cosmetic damage that may have occurred during shipping. You should have complained loudly the first time it became obvious. It's probably too late now for the dealer to do anything on their dime, as the car is 3 years old.
#4066 of 5279 Sorry.....,
Oct 06, 2005 (7:58 pm)
ABS activation will always, ALWAYS, elongate your stopping distance, unconditionally.
The SOUL purpose of ABS is to allow you to maintain directional control.
#4067 of 5279 Re: Sorry....., [wwest]
Oct 07, 2005 (2:37 am)
>ABS activation will always, ALWAYS, elongate your stopping distance, unconditionally.
elongate relative to what?
If you're on ice and you don't have ABS, the operation of the ABS will shorten your stopping distance by keeping each wheel effectively in rolling contact with the surface and allowing maximum decelleration. Otherwise one and more wheels would keep locking up, giving no stopping power, and you would release the brake pedal then reapply and start the process over again.
The ABS can shorten the stopping distance on poor surfaces compared to not having ABS operating, but the stopping distance would be longer than on a normal dry asphalt surface.
#4068 of 5279 Re: Sorry....., [wwest]
Oct 07, 2005 (5:11 am)
Sorry you are incorrect. I've personally witnessed numerous demonstrations on dry asphalt at 50-60 mph with accurate measuring equipment on board the test vehicle, and 4-wheel ABS always slightly shortens stopping distances. The chief advantage of ABS, however, as you point out, is to maintain steering ability.
On wet surfaces, it's no contest, because the ABS allows directional control, especially if one side of the pavement is more slippery than the other.
The only situations where ABS may "elongate" stopping distances is when a wedge of material (wet snow or loose gravel, for example) builds up in front of locked wheels, permitting shorter stopping distances for non-ABS vehicles. Another is on extremely bumpy pavement, where one or more tires may lose contact with the pavement altogether.
#4069 of 5279 Failed Emission Test
Oct 07, 2005 (5:53 am)
I have a 2000 Toyota Camry. I keep the oil changed as suggested. The engine light is on and when I went to get an inspection sticker - the car failed the emission test. It said something about airflow, etc. Then they suggested that I take it to the Toyota Dealership - which really frightens me.
Can anyone shed light on what it usually cost to get emission issues cleared up so I don't walk into the dealership at their mercy?
#4070 of 5279 1997 Camry problem
Oct 07, 2005 (5:54 am)
more often then not but sometimes sporadic when I start my car and give it gas it starts to sputter, like I'm waiting for the engine to kick. Last night it did it again and when I put it in park I could feel a shaking. Could this be my transmission, maybe low on transmission fluid? I just had the fuel injection cleaned out with an oil change recently and nobody said that my transmission looked bad, any help would be great. thanks.
#4071 of 5279 Re: Failed Emission Test [aubster]
Oct 07, 2005 (9:33 am)
i don't think anyone is going to give you an answer with any specificity, because your question is still too general and without detail to WAG an estimate.
what you could do is have a local automotive parts store (AutoZone, NAPA, PepBoys, etc) read the code(s) for you.
Then you could google those codes and camry and see what you get in terms of probable cause and part location.
Then you could go to an online auto-parts website dealing in Toyota and get an idea of the cost of the part.
Then you could get a local independant quote the confirmation of the diagnosis and contingent replacement of the part for comparison.. (ie labor).
Hopefully, the process that I describe in general will yield some useful information to you.
#4072 of 5279 Re: Failed Emission Test [aubster]
Oct 07, 2005 (10:39 am)
Sounds like at least a problem with the mass airflow sensor, though a diagnostics may uncover other fault codes, too. Depending on your locale and/or the provisions of the Federal Emissions warranty at the time your vehicle was manufactured, your repairs may be covered by Toyota. (Check your owner's manual or whatever warranty supplement material was included with the original paperwork for details.) In any event the problem(s) won't go away so you have no choice if you wish to continue registering your Camry for use on public highways. The engine's emissions control systems have to be repaired to meet its original emissions standards.