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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions 
5279 messages, Last post on Aug 22, 2006 at 1:43 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
| Boost it to get it running then place a voltmeter across the battery terminals. Should read about 13.8-14.2 volts. If ok, either the battery's pooched or something's discharging it with the key off. If not, the battery's not receiving a charge from the alternator. Repeat the test between the alternator's battery terminal and a clean ground. If ok, there's an open circuit between the alternator and battery. If not, the alternator's not charging. | |
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Replying to: morphius909 (Dec 11, 2004 3:49 pm) When that happens, the leakage current is not high enough to blow the fuse but the battery can usually be completely drained in a few minutes. Go into the fuse box in the engine compartment and pull the fuse to the fan and leave it out overnight. If the battery is not drained overnight then the fault is definitely in the fan circuit. If the battery is still drained then the fault is in other circuits. Sequentially pull all fuses until you find one that saves the battery. That will be the faulty circuit. You can look around the part and its wiring. Most likely the problem is some chafed, pinched or exposed wires. Dealers have computer diagostics that alledgedly can find the faulty circuits without having to physically remove any parts. The service techs would still have to do troubleshooting to isolate the faulty components. Finding shorted wires in a car chassisis a very tough job. My local dealer charges $90 for that diagnostic before any estimate can be made! In the past they were unable to find intermittent shorts in my family's Celica. |
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Hey all: I rear-ended my '97 Camry LE V6 into an Accord. The Accord was fine -- my car got the worst of it. It's going to need a whole new bumper, hood, headlight assemblys, and probably more. Is there a way i can buy OEM parts, like the bumper and hood myself, rather than have the body shop do it and (I assume) mark up the cost to ridiculous levels? This is an out of pocket repair, not insurance. If so, where would I look for these things? thanks, Matt
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| I have a 97 Camry and want to get a bike rack for it. Do they make a receiver hitch for the Camry? The receiver hitch racks seem to be the best. | |
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Replying to: lmsmedley1 (Dec 12, 2004 11:29 pm) I would look on Ebay. I purchased a headlight for my '98 when a deer hit me, thus causing a dent in my hood and breaking the latches that hold the headlight in. It only cost me $20. Dealer is easily $70 or more! Personally, I would buy for both sides, because I am sure they have an "aged" look to them now. I also seen a fender for around $40 as well. As far as hoods go, I have only seen the aftermarket carbon fiber hoods that run $300! If you can't find a hood, then I would look at junkyards or go to the dealer, because shipping on one is EXPENSIVE. Also, the bumper cover runs about $70, and I also seen bumpers for the rear for only about $100. Good luck! - Alex |
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Replying to: buster6 (Mar 03, 2004 9:21 pm)
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Replying to: foggy (Dec 15, 2004 12:58 pm)
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| I have a '04 Solara Sle Conv. with a v6 and 5 speed Auto. There is a good 2 sec. lag from the time you press down on the gas pedal, and when the car finally figures out that you want to go faster. Since the car has both the auto and the manual shift mode, if you slide the lever over to manual mode, it will automatically downshift into 4th gear. I do this any time I want to pass or enter the highway. It appears that Toyota, in an effort to increase mileage ratings, forces the transmission to upshift into 5th gear at very so speeds, thereby creating this lag. Top gear is in overdrive with a ration of about .61 to 1. Since this is so high, that is what causes the lag. Back in the spring of '92, I had a similar problem with a New Toyota Camry XLE with the V6 and 4 speed Auto with overdrive. I would have to press the overdrive button to kick it out of top gear, and got all the performance I wanted. If you want performance in town, keep it on the manual side in 4th gear all the time. | |
After several attempts to correct the noise eminating from the steering in my 2004 Camry, the problem has finally been resolved. The dealer replaced the intermediate steering shaft. This component connects the steering column to the steering box. He explained that the "U" joint failed and further that this is not uncommon. My car now steers and drives normally without clunking when turning the wheel.
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Replying to: joescar (Dec 18, 2004 2:44 pm) I've read a number of complaints on these boards about clicks and rattles in the steering column of current Camrys so it seems likely that Toyota has a design issue with that particular part. Or did your dealer indicate that this is a common problem in a variety of cars he sees?
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