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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions 
5279 messages, Last post on Aug 22, 2006 at 1:43 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: themoon77 (Sep 07, 2004 9:52 am) 1. Wipers: The wipers suddenly only work on fast (i.e. intermittent settings don't work). So I only have fast, fast and super fast. Is this a problem with the wiper switch or motor? 2. Starting problems on a cold engine: When started, I take my foot off the gas, the engine dies. This can happen 2-3 times. But if I keep my foot on the gas (at high rpm) for about 30 secs, the slowly remove foot, the engine keeps running. Is this a problem with air intake, manifold, ..? Thanks.
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Replying to: msabatini2001 (Dec 08, 2004 12:17 pm) It appears your cold start mechanism inside the fuel injector unit is sticking. Fill the tank with premium gas and add a bottle of injector cleaner. That solved the problem for my Camry I4. If that doesn't solve it, remove the air inlet rubber hose from the fuel injector. Spray in 2 bottles of injector cleaner while revving the engine at various RPM. If that still doesn't work consult a few reliable and competent dealers and shops before making the next move. |
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| I have a 00 Solara SE 4cyl. with 82,000. I seem to have a problem with white smoke coming from my exhaust at start up. It's a light to medium flow right after startup for about 10 to 20 seconds and then its gone. If you rev the engine after the initial occurance you don't get anymore smoke either. It doesn't happen when my car is started at home, but rather at work, everyday just like clockwork. At home my car is garaged and at work it sits out in the sun from the time it comes up until the time I leave between 2 and 3 in the afternoon. This is the only variable that I can think of. I have tried starting it at various times at home in my garage and I never see any smoke. If I'm out at a store or something at any time of the day or night and return to start the car it starts without the smoking. I'm really at a loss on this one. I don't want to take it into the shop just to have someone nail me for an expensive "repair" when it could be something simple. Has anyone read a post about this anywhere or had any experience with this? Any help from anyone here would be greatly appreciated. | |
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Replying to: newsuvhunter (Sep 30, 2004 12:19 am) NY state inspection calls for depressed pedal at 1/3 of pedal height..Pedal should not fade or sink for one minute ..did car meet these specs |
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We just brought home the Camry from an Autobody repair shop* Hail damage in excess of $5,000 needed to be repaired*. It was approximately -10 degrees celsius the day we picked it up, but it had sat outside in temperature of excess of minus 20 degrees. I drove the vehicle home, but noticed that the climate control/heater fan was slowing down and speeding up. My first suspect was the Battery/Alternator. No Battery light ever came on inside the car. I made it home. Parked the Car and turned it off. Approximately 10 minutes, when I went to move the car, there was absolutely no power. No lights, nothing. I couldn't even move the Shifter into Neutral to push it. We boosted the car, it boosted fine. I noticed on the Toyota/Panasonic Brand battery that the Indicator Eye indicated a "needs charging" condition. I didn't know if it's the battery unable to hold a charge now or if the alternator is pooched. When I went to turn the heater fan on, the car suddenly died again. No power, not even the interior lights. It was as though the connection was severed. I boosted again, let is sit for appro 10 minutes idling and then move it into the garage, When I moved it into Park and then went to turn off any heater fan controls, the car died again. Any Ideas? Thanks!
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| Boost it to get it running then place a voltmeter across the battery terminals. Should read about 13.8-14.2 volts. If ok, either the battery's pooched or something's discharging it with the key off. If not, the battery's not receiving a charge from the alternator. Repeat the test between the alternator's battery terminal and a clean ground. If ok, there's an open circuit between the alternator and battery. If not, the alternator's not charging. | |
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Replying to: morphius909 (Dec 11, 2004 3:49 pm) When that happens, the leakage current is not high enough to blow the fuse but the battery can usually be completely drained in a few minutes. Go into the fuse box in the engine compartment and pull the fuse to the fan and leave it out overnight. If the battery is not drained overnight then the fault is definitely in the fan circuit. If the battery is still drained then the fault is in other circuits. Sequentially pull all fuses until you find one that saves the battery. That will be the faulty circuit. You can look around the part and its wiring. Most likely the problem is some chafed, pinched or exposed wires. Dealers have computer diagostics that alledgedly can find the faulty circuits without having to physically remove any parts. The service techs would still have to do troubleshooting to isolate the faulty components. Finding shorted wires in a car chassisis a very tough job. My local dealer charges $90 for that diagnostic before any estimate can be made! In the past they were unable to find intermittent shorts in my family's Celica. |
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Hey all: I rear-ended my '97 Camry LE V6 into an Accord. The Accord was fine -- my car got the worst of it. It's going to need a whole new bumper, hood, headlight assemblys, and probably more. Is there a way i can buy OEM parts, like the bumper and hood myself, rather than have the body shop do it and (I assume) mark up the cost to ridiculous levels? This is an out of pocket repair, not insurance. If so, where would I look for these things? thanks, Matt
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| I have a 97 Camry and want to get a bike rack for it. Do they make a receiver hitch for the Camry? The receiver hitch racks seem to be the best. | |
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Replying to: lmsmedley1 (Dec 12, 2004 11:29 pm) I would look on Ebay. I purchased a headlight for my '98 when a deer hit me, thus causing a dent in my hood and breaking the latches that hold the headlight in. It only cost me $20. Dealer is easily $70 or more! Personally, I would buy for both sides, because I am sure they have an "aged" look to them now. I also seen a fender for around $40 as well. As far as hoods go, I have only seen the aftermarket carbon fiber hoods that run $300! If you can't find a hood, then I would look at junkyards or go to the dealer, because shipping on one is EXPENSIVE. Also, the bumper cover runs about $70, and I also seen bumpers for the rear for only about $100. Good luck! - Alex |
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