Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions 
5279 messages, Last post on Aug 22, 2006 at 1:43 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
|
|---|---|
|
As much as I love my car, something very weird happened to the door of my 03 Camry tonight. It was a cold night, -3 degrees, and I got into my car as usual. I closed the door firmly so that the dome light and the "door ajar" light turned off, indicating that the door had been fully shut. However, when I was about to come to a stop at a traffic light few blocks down the street, I heard a "pop" and the dome light came on! Then I heard all these road noises and I looked at the dashboard and found that the "door ajar" light came on! The door popped open by itself! I came to a complete stop at the traffic light, wondering what might have caused the door to open but couldn't come to any conclusions. I pulled the latch to open (Although the door wasn't fully shut, the door couldn't be opened without pulling the latch. Just like when we all sometimes forget to use more force to close the door) then close the door firmly again. It was fine for the rest of the way home. I was definitely SURE that the door was shut firmly, or else the dome light and "door ajar" light would be lit. Also, the automatic lock probably wouldn't have been able to lock the doors when I shifted into reverse if the door was still open (not sure about this though). It shouldn't have been the cold weather either because the car had been through two harsh Canadian winters with temperatures well below tonight's, yet the door was fine. I am going to bring this issue to the dealer's attention next time I go for maintenance. But I am pretty sure there should be nothing wrong with the lock. Or am I really that unlucky to own a Camry with a defective lock? Nah, afterall, it's a Toyota. It was assembled in Japan too. There might be some rattling here and there, and a little clicking in the steering wheel, but I am sure that they won't build a car with such a major defect. Will post the results after going to the dealer. |
|
|
...would obviate much of the apparent ineptitude that we are noting within these threads........ Again, the dollar speaks: folks don't want the extra effort of a real clutch, shifting forks (or cables) coordinating the synchros and CONTROLING gear changes... ..just listen to my high school buds come up with why they drive an auto. "Well, I hurt my left foot in an industrial accident"; "I'm tired of shifting: I can afford it, why not?" You made you bed; now sleep in it (as my Dad was fond of saying) |
|
|
When you drive a stick for 20 years all automatics feel like they have some kind of hesitation. My 2004 Camry I4 4-speed takes around 1/3 second to respond from standing still, maybe 1/2 second to downshift when accelerating suddenly on the highway (haven't felt the need to use the "O/D Off" button yet). But overall it feels very smooth. There are a lot of improvements in the 2005 model that I'd like to have, but the 5-speed AT isn't really one of them. Just more opportunities for problems. And who wants to be the guinea pig for a new tranny? (not that the 4-speed is so great, but new models can be iffy). |
|
|
|
|
Replying to: themoon77 (Sep 07, 2004 9:52 am) 1. Wipers: The wipers suddenly only work on fast (i.e. intermittent settings don't work). So I only have fast, fast and super fast. Is this a problem with the wiper switch or motor? 2. Starting problems on a cold engine: When started, I take my foot off the gas, the engine dies. This can happen 2-3 times. But if I keep my foot on the gas (at high rpm) for about 30 secs, the slowly remove foot, the engine keeps running. Is this a problem with air intake, manifold, ..? Thanks.
|
|
|
Replying to: msabatini2001 (Dec 08, 2004 12:17 pm) It appears your cold start mechanism inside the fuel injector unit is sticking. Fill the tank with premium gas and add a bottle of injector cleaner. That solved the problem for my Camry I4. If that doesn't solve it, remove the air inlet rubber hose from the fuel injector. Spray in 2 bottles of injector cleaner while revving the engine at various RPM. If that still doesn't work consult a few reliable and competent dealers and shops before making the next move. |
|
| I have a 00 Solara SE 4cyl. with 82,000. I seem to have a problem with white smoke coming from my exhaust at start up. It's a light to medium flow right after startup for about 10 to 20 seconds and then its gone. If you rev the engine after the initial occurance you don't get anymore smoke either. It doesn't happen when my car is started at home, but rather at work, everyday just like clockwork. At home my car is garaged and at work it sits out in the sun from the time it comes up until the time I leave between 2 and 3 in the afternoon. This is the only variable that I can think of. I have tried starting it at various times at home in my garage and I never see any smoke. If I'm out at a store or something at any time of the day or night and return to start the car it starts without the smoking. I'm really at a loss on this one. I don't want to take it into the shop just to have someone nail me for an expensive "repair" when it could be something simple. Has anyone read a post about this anywhere or had any experience with this? Any help from anyone here would be greatly appreciated. | |
|
Replying to: newsuvhunter (Sep 30, 2004 12:19 am) NY state inspection calls for depressed pedal at 1/3 of pedal height..Pedal should not fade or sink for one minute ..did car meet these specs |
|
|
|
|
We just brought home the Camry from an Autobody repair shop* Hail damage in excess of $5,000 needed to be repaired*. It was approximately -10 degrees celsius the day we picked it up, but it had sat outside in temperature of excess of minus 20 degrees. I drove the vehicle home, but noticed that the climate control/heater fan was slowing down and speeding up. My first suspect was the Battery/Alternator. No Battery light ever came on inside the car. I made it home. Parked the Car and turned it off. Approximately 10 minutes, when I went to move the car, there was absolutely no power. No lights, nothing. I couldn't even move the Shifter into Neutral to push it. We boosted the car, it boosted fine. I noticed on the Toyota/Panasonic Brand battery that the Indicator Eye indicated a "needs charging" condition. I didn't know if it's the battery unable to hold a charge now or if the alternator is pooched. When I went to turn the heater fan on, the car suddenly died again. No power, not even the interior lights. It was as though the connection was severed. I boosted again, let is sit for appro 10 minutes idling and then move it into the garage, When I moved it into Park and then went to turn off any heater fan controls, the car died again. Any Ideas? Thanks!
|
|
| Boost it to get it running then place a voltmeter across the battery terminals. Should read about 13.8-14.2 volts. If ok, either the battery's pooched or something's discharging it with the key off. If not, the battery's not receiving a charge from the alternator. Repeat the test between the alternator's battery terminal and a clean ground. If ok, there's an open circuit between the alternator and battery. If not, the alternator's not charging. | |
|
Replying to: morphius909 (Dec 11, 2004 3:49 pm) When that happens, the leakage current is not high enough to blow the fuse but the battery can usually be completely drained in a few minutes. Go into the fuse box in the engine compartment and pull the fuse to the fan and leave it out overnight. If the battery is not drained overnight then the fault is definitely in the fan circuit. If the battery is still drained then the fault is in other circuits. Sequentially pull all fuses until you find one that saves the battery. That will be the faulty circuit. You can look around the part and its wiring. Most likely the problem is some chafed, pinched or exposed wires. Dealers have computer diagostics that alledgedly can find the faulty circuits without having to physically remove any parts. The service techs would still have to do troubleshooting to isolate the faulty components. Finding shorted wires in a car chassisis a very tough job. My local dealer charges $90 for that diagnostic before any estimate can be made! In the past they were unable to find intermittent shorts in my family's Celica. |
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2008 Toyota Camry Solara
2010 Toyota Camry
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
