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Maintenance & Repair Synthetic motor oil
8536 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 9:34 AM
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Replying to: blufz1 (Dec 24, 2007 7:32 pm) If I use Mobil 1 motor oil is it necessary to use Mobil 1 filter also? My dealership use $5 oil filter, but Mobil 1 filter cost around $10. Does an oil filter really make a big difference, which like switch from conventional oil to synthetic oil?
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Replying to: dchen2003 (Dec 24, 2007 8:37 pm) Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: dchen2003 (Dec 24, 2007 8:37 pm) |
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Replying to: blufz1 (Dec 24, 2007 7:32 pm)
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Replying to: shipo (Dec 24, 2007 11:00 pm)  $2.12-$2.64 per. (made by Champion Labs) Just as an aside, I would go with the premium filter ONLY in the very rare case of the bypass oil filter which actually is manufactured to filter out MUCH smaller sized microns. The trade off is much lower flow, but off CRITICAL line/FLOW, obviously. Another is of course the much higher premium due to higher quality filtering materials, manufacturing costs and MUCH lower production and sales volume. |
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Replying to: ruking1 (Dec 25, 2007 1:17 pm) |
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Replying to: shipo (Dec 24, 2007 11:00 pm) I really need you guys' suggestions to make the decision in order to have a peace of mind.
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Replying to: dchen2003 (Dec 28, 2007 12:48 pm) I have a friend that has a Toyota Camry with 458,000 miles!! (mostly freeway in a daily long (obviously) commute. First the good news. On late model engines NO causing of oil leakage due to switching from conventional to synthetic oil. Caveats: 1. need to make sure there are no existing leaks that are obscured by the conventional oil. If there are, then get the source/s of the leak/s fixed. (you should anyway regardless of the conventional vs synthetic change issue) Synthetic oil is less inclined to so called "plug" minor leaks like conventional oil might. 2. while Toyota denies this, make sure there is no engine sludge formed already in the 33,000 miles of operation using conventional oil. The dealer or yourself can perform the inspection. If you have a good relationship with your dealer, they might even do the inspection free of charge. Use the lowest viscosity recommended by your oem owners manual or technical data. So for example if it recommends 5w30 to 10w30, use the 5w30. 0w30 viscosity also will do (given it meets the other specifications) . I would run a MINIMUIM of the oem recommended OCI like for example 7,500 miles. Most dealers in this above example would recommend 3,000 to 5,000 mile OCI's. For example, I personally have no issues running (on a 2004 Honda Civic with a 10,000 mile oem recommendation with 5w20 conventional oil) 20,000 miles with Mobil One 0w20, 5w20 oil.
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Replying to: ruking1 (Dec 28, 2007 1:12 pm) 1. How do I check the leaks that are plug by the conventional oil? The only thing I do is to check the oil level. The level doesn't change at all since last time I changed the oil 3000 mi ago. 2. I check my engine just by opening the the oil cap and peeking into it. Is it enough? You mentioned to check if there is sludge inside th engine, how does this relate to switching to synthetic oil? (if there is sludge I can switch or if there is no sludge I can switch) 3. The OCI I do with conventional oil is 3000 mi, because most of my driving is cold start in the morning and drive less than 2 mi, cold start again in the afternoon and drive from campus back to my apartment. If I switch to Mobil 1 what OCI do you suggest under the same condition?
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Replying to: dchen2003 (Dec 28, 2007 1:38 pm) 2) Don't worry about the sludge either. 3) With such a short drive cycle, I'm not at all sure that I'd even bother changing to synthetic oil. In fact, were I in your shoes, I'd definitely opt for something like Havoline 5W-30 and stay with the 3,000 mile OCI. Keep in mind; I am a dyed in the wool advocate of synthetic oil, so for me to recommend that you stay with conventional is very much against my nature. That said, I think in your case conventional oil is the better bet. Best Regards, Shipo
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