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Synthetic motor oil

8536 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 9:34 AM
You are in the Maintenance & Repair Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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There was a lot of discussion of synthetic oils in the now frozen Engine Oil -- A Slippery Subject. Some of you may wish to look through that topic. It takes about 2 or 3 minutes (at 56kbps) to use the "see all responses" choice to load the whole topic. Then you can either page through it, or use the Search button at the bottom of the topic to look for "Responses in Current Topic" containing whatever keyword you want to look for. (I searched for "synt" to allow for misspellings and abbreviations - 241 posts were returned.) Meanwhile, the current version of that topic is alive and well here where there has also been discussion of synthetics. Lots and lots of opinions! Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference |
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Folks, We have two topic on motor oil running concurrently, This one on synthetic oil and the "slippery subject #2" that Pat gives the link for in her post #40. Would you all like to see these two topics combined OR separate topic for dino oil and synthetic. I think there are enough differences in peoples question re. synthetics oils only , so that topic has merit as a standalone; for me anyways. let me know. your new host, Bruce |
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Your professor or your understanding is wrong. They call 'em hydrocarbons because the molecular chains are made up of a carbon backbone with hydrogens attached. Synthetics are no better than dyno when dealing with condensed moisture. The add pack is what buffers the acids formed due to combustion byproducts. While I do run synthetics when it suits the application (low temps, race engines), I follow the same oil change schedule regardless of oil type(frequent when short cold trips, extended on long highway trips). |
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i would like to add my 2 cents to this discussion. maybe i am just a lot poorer than most but i am looking to get the most out of my vehicle as i can so as to conserve the limited financial resources that i have for more fun things such as vacations and gifts for the kids etc. after speaking with several chemical engineers as well as reading technical papers on the subject i have come to the conclusion that there is no comparison between the synthetic and hydrocarbon oils. the synthetic is definetly better for poor people. my only problem was which synthetic was best. most synthetics are pao based some are diester based and one is polyol based. that one is red line. it has properties that the others don't. te polyol base is used by the military in very expensive aircraft jet engines. found testimonials to be incredible.people getting very long life from their engines and tranny. try it you will like it! i am not a dealer i have no axe to grind i have tried amsoil and royal purple and found through personal experience that red line appears to be a little bit better so far in temp reduction. good luck on whatever you choose. |
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| also want to add that i called my dealer and asked about the frequency of oil changes in the manual and what came out of that was that the 7500 mile interval is a suggestion only. they cannot legally void warranty for extending the reccommended change interval whether with regular or synthetic oils. what i suggest is change oil at 15000 or once a year and use a good quality filter such as wix, mobil1, bosch stc and change it every 5k to 7.5k . | |
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so I pay a total of about $11 for an oil change every 3 to 4 thousand miles using Walmart Tech 2000 Synthetic blend oil purchased in 5 quart jugs ($1.30/qt for 6qts oil and a $3 Delco filter). I get rid of combustion byproducts every couple of months this way. Plan to run my gas engine 150k to 200k before rebuild, just like the last several vehicles I have owned. Can't figure out how full synthetic offers a better return for your money. |
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| Never understood the logic of syn blends. If costs is relevant why not go with Tech 2000 regular oil at $.89? Maybe I'm skeptical since I can't find the blend ratio, but if I'm happy with dino oil why pay the extra? | |
| Why isn't the blend ratio on the bottle? Technically, 2% synth is still a "blend" ... and, I suppose, a waste of money. | |
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Ok, for the third time, I'm posting the following. (Already posted twice on the other topic: Engine Oil - A Slippery Subject). Last year, I contacted Mobil's engineering group directly for their response to a break-in period of conventional oil. Here is their response: - - - - - - - - Dear Mr. xxxxx, You can start using Mobil 1 in new vehicles at any time. In fact, Mobil 1 is the factory fill in Corvette LS1, LT-1 and LT-5 engines. And Mobil and Porsche just announced a new partnership that will also have all Porsche cars manufactured at the Zuffenhausen plant lubricated with Mobil 1. One of the myths that persists about Mobil 1 is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil. Current engine manufacturing technology does not require this break-in period. As the decisions by the engineers who design the Corvette and Porsche engines indicate, Mobil 1 can be used in an engine from the day you drive the car off the show room floor. The “30” designation identifies that all three grades (0W-30, 5W-30 and 10W-30) will exhibit the same oil viscosity at normal engine operating temperatures. The “W” designation identifies the low temperature viscosity. A smaller number indicates an ability to flow at lower temperatures. In summary, Mobil 1 0W-30 will provide the correct viscosity protection at normal engine operating temperatures, and BETTER protection at low temperature extremes for any vehicle that calls for a 5W-30 or 10W-30 engine oil. If you have any additional questions, you may contact us at our E-mail address: lubes |
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| THANKSx3, for your post regarding MOBIL1 at break-in.The dealer told us (Ford) that no break-in attention was required.He claimed the engine was run at the factory. the old theories don't apply with the current production standards. | |
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