Last post on Feb 07, 2013 at 1:54 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta
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Volkswagen Jetta, Sedan
#6550 of 6629 Re: Coolant reservoir always empty [sbellah]
Sep 06, 2011 (6:13 pm)
Mixing ANYTHING with VW G12 coolant is a bad idea. (I realize you were in a bind but distilled water would have been a better choice.)
Now that it has been 'mixed' consider a tottal R&R of your coolant....Lest, you may get 'gelling' and plugging-up of the cooling system.
The sound you hear under the hood after turning off the engine is BOILING ANTIFREEZE... this a a bad thing. Do not drive until you have this under control.... Lest you risk warping the head and causing serious trouble.
For now, if you cannot obtain G12 antifreeze, get a case of distilled water and carry it in the trunk.
Here is a URL which helps explain G12 antifreeze
#6551 of 6629 2004 VW Jetta timing belt
Sep 26, 2011 (10:21 am)
There is no score/ mark in the top pulley to line up. Has anybody come across this issue before?
#6552 of 6629 99.5 Jetta GLS 2.0 Code/ECM HELP!
Oct 15, 2011 (4:21 pm)
OK so I have a 99.5 Jetta GLS 2.0 5sp Manual and I am having some serious issues. I bought the car and it had problems with the cat converter. Had it replaced last winter. Had new o2 sensor, plugs and cables 2 yrs ago. check engine light on until cat replacement then shortly after went on again. Took it back said it was something to do with my idle. I planed on bringing it back as soon as I had the cash but it went off again. Fast forward to a couple weeks ago, car ran very low on gas, only had a few dollars to put in but it should have gotten my light off. My gas light stayed on and it was reading over a quarter tank and chugging a bit, idling, running rough. The light should have been off at the point the lever was reading. i went to get some fuel cleaner thinking I had a clog or something but before I got to the station to fill it up it kinda chugged once hard and all resumed normal. Light off not running rough. A few days ago my check engine light came on again. Since then it is getting worse, have to push more on accelerator taking of or it feels like it is going to die, intermittent chugging at steady speed, idling ROUGH, and yesterday the check engine light started blinking at me!!! It is not consistant though, it is off sometimes, solid sometimes, and blinks sometimes. I stopped by a shop and they ran the codes and here is what I got. I have NO idea where to start.
17990 idle adaptation limit reached P1582 intermittent problem ecm. 0134 Engine control module defect intermittent, 16684 random missfire, 1687 cylinder #3 missfire, 17988 throttle actuator bank 1 malfunction intermittent, 17708 missfire detected possibly low fuel P1300 intermittent, 16686 cylinder #2 missfire.
My car has a salvage title. it was wrecked and rebuilt the yr it was new. it has an interior leak that comes through the right front wheel well area. the carpet is gone and the electric controls on that side of the car do not work. seat heater, defrost. My temp gauge sits at bottom level but once in awhile, like now, moves to middle 190 point. never hot and does not move high to low and such. I get 28-29 MPG. My car just turned to 140k miles. The shop said it may be a computer issue and I need to replace it first. I am afraid my car will blow up or something. I can not see anything when I visual my engine. It is clean and nothing apparent. I am mechanically inclined but I am now preg so no fixing anything with fluids or fumes. I need any help possible of things I can try and do for myself. I have the Chilton book on it too if that would be of help.
#6553 of 6629 Re: 99.5 Jetta GLS 2.0 Code/ECM HELP! [gravitygirljs]
Oct 16, 2011 (6:52 pm)
You mention several unrelated issues. I will try to give you some help
1) That year of VW was *known* to have a bad temperature-sender. Simply replace it with one of the upgraded (green) ones. (less than $20 part) On the 2L engine, I have replaced the temp-sensor in the dark with my daughter holding a flashlight. (it is that simple)
Here is link to new sensor, O-ring and clip for your engine.
Since a faulty temp-sender could cause ALL KINDS of goofy problems and errors, I would absolutely get it replaced before doing anything else.
2) Remove/clean all ground connections. With all those goofy, unrelated errors, the only obvious answer is the ECU is not getting a solid ground. (or +12)
Explanation: If the ECU (Engine Computer) gets bad signal from the engine-temp sensor, then the ECU may make bad 'decisions' about how to control the engine. For example, if the ECU 'thinks' the engine is cold when it is really warmed up, then too much fuel may be injected and the idle-speed will be incorrect.
#6554 of 6629 Re: 99.5 Jetta GLS 2.0 Code/ECM HELP! [bpeebles]
Oct 17, 2011 (9:19 pm)
Goodness I hope you're right! I had to drive my daughters 94 white and purple geo tracker today, aka the barbie jeep, and felt like I was driving a box! I miss my car! I appreciate the help
Oh and GREAT site! I found a new window kit for so much less than the dealer wanted
#6555 of 6629 Re: 99.5 Jetta GLS 2.0 Code/ECM HELP! [gravitygirljs]
Oct 29, 2011 (5:59 pm)
i had a problem in my 02 vw jetta 1.8t jolting and lights coming on... they are on the right track... you should check if you need a crank position sensor... if the car jolts and it feels like your not getting enough power to your engine and the epc light along with other check llights comes on that should be the prob and those other codes you could awlays google it and something should come up
#6556 of 6629 Re: werid shifting problem [isellhondas]
Nov 06, 2011 (1:23 pm)
I have a motor drop issue and not sure how it happened.
Please read this letter.
My Jetta TDI has only 131678.0 miles on it.
This TDI for the past 11 years has had every oil change, sessional tire change & rotation and VW parts replaced by a VW Authorized Service Technician.
I just had it in for service, oil change with filter, new fuel filter. new ball joint on front right side and two days later driving home my engine falls out of the car and drags on the ground!
I phoned my VW dealer and expressed my concern, they said bring it in and we will look at it. Then the manager sends me an email and in his email is written:
"Looking at the photo’s it seems like a motor mount has broken? We have seen this before with TDI’s. The side mount by the timing belt can snap, or the bolt can break which causes the motor to fall…."
Since this happens with the TDI, why didn't I or the other TDI owners receive a
VW ALERT about motor mount failure?
If VW put in a faulty taillight bulb that may cause a potential fire there would have been an alert but not if you have bad motor mounts that may cause your engine to fall out and put you or someone else at risk of being hurt!
When I went to my VW Dealer for a service a few days ago and my VIN number was keyed in, why wasn't there an ALERT notification telling the service department that this TDI needs to have its motor mounts checked?? If it did have an alert my engine would not have fallen to the ground while on the highway which could have caused a serious accident but luckily no accident. Otherwise, I would not be sitting here this morning writing this letter and looking out my living room window at my VW Jetta TDIs motor sitting on the ground.
"Would you like to buy a new VW TDI they are a great looking car but be aware the motor mount may break and the engine may fall to the ground"
#6557 of 6629 Broken MotorMount bolt [steven64]
Nov 06, 2011 (4:52 pm)
I am not sure if this is your problem or not... but I will mention it here for your information.
When the Timing Belt (TB) is replaced on TDI engine, one of the motor-mount bolts MUST be removed to access the belt.
The factory shop manual *SPECIFIES* that the motor-mount bolt MUST BE REPLACED anytime it is removed. This is because it is a TTY (Torque To Yield) bolt which stretches when it is installed. Once stretched, if it is reused, it may snap off. (later down the road at some unexpected time)
There are documented cases where a TDI owner has TB replaced and the mechanic re-uses the motorMount bolt.... at a later time, the bolt snaps and the engine falls out from under the vehicle.
My suggestion to you... get your hands on the original receipt when your TB was replaced. If it does not specify that they REPLACED the motor-mount bolt (by evidence of charging your for new bolt).... then you may have a case against that service-provider which replaced your TB.
#6558 of 6629 Re: Trunk Mechanism [fordnuts]
Nov 06, 2011 (5:08 pm)
I'm replying to my own post. I was able to replace the door latch mechanism and VW did sell it seperately at around $60. It is easy to replace yourself. About 20 minutes and includes taking the 20 screws on and off the carpeted trunk door.
#6559 of 6629 Re: Multiple Error Codes [nitekim]
Nov 06, 2011 (5:17 pm)
Replace the coil pack. AutoZone sells the part for $90 to $120 and is cheaper than dealer price. The Coilpack is held in by 3 screws. Disconnect battery then remove the spark plugs noting which order they were removed to match up with new coil. One of the 3 screws of CP is a little tough to remove, but in 15 minutes it completed. Reconnect plugs, battery and start car and drive with a smoother running car.