Last post on May 24, 2013 at 7:26 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen Jetta, Sedan
#6117 of 6631 Re: 2001 Jetta TDI [01tdi]
Aug 10, 2009 (3:14 pm)
I've owned six VW's and have two now. Looking to get my daughter a Bug. No rush, I will get one at my price. Also, went to school for this. I own most tools needed. Have a place to work.
Check all the local auto parts stores for the prices. There can be quite a difference. Make sure the price is for the dogbone with bushings, not just the bushings. The price you wrote looks like it is for the dogbone with bushings.
If cost is an issue, you could hold off on the side mounts. You are aware of them. Have the shop check them out before and after the rear mount is replaced. On a lift, it shouldn't take that long. Jack stands a little longer.
Please let us know how it all turns out.
#6118 of 6631 EPC Light and Loss of Power
Aug 13, 2009 (11:48 pm)
My dashboard has been lighting up like a christmas tree lately.
Currently I have the car throwing the following codes I was able to get from a generic code scanner. Check engine light is currently on
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Sign.2 Signal too High
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Range/Performance
Throttle Actuation Potentiometer Signal too High
On occassion and it happened several times today for some reason the EPC light will go on and I will lose power. Usually just a simple restart will make that light go away and I'll have power again, but the triangle/circle light usually stays on until I restart it again.
I've cleared the codes several times and have them stay off for a week at at time sometimes, but they always come back
I've had no work done on the car recently so it couldn't of been cause by anything else that was done to it.
I've checked all the fuses and they all appear to be good. I've also checked all the hoses for cracks and any loose connections and everything appears to be ok.
It's a 2000 Jetta VR6 with the 2.8L engine
I don't want to go to the dealership or anywhere else for that matter and have them throw on a new throttle body and have it not solve the problem cause that's how most places operate.
So what should I check first?
#6119 of 6631 Re: 2001 Jetta TDI [underthevwhood]
Aug 14, 2009 (8:50 am)
I just got back from the shop. They say there is no problem with the engine mounts and that they are all installed and properly in place. It also said that the exhaust hanger support and mount are missing and that they would need to replace the entire exhaust system for around $900. It also said the transmission is leaking fluid and they suspect it is starting to fail. Other than that the rotors are rusty (due to sitting on a car lot for about a year) and the under pan is missing. I planed to replace it with a metal one anyway.
So basically it needs a transmission and exhaust system but somehow it still passed inspection? Any suggestions underthevwhood? haha happen to live close to West Virginia?
I looked up transmission options and found out rebuilding the one you have is useless. A new automatic transmission and installation sits somewhere around $5000. Anyone know how much it is to convert an automatic trans to manual? The new manual 5 speed transmission is only 2 to 3 thousand plus installation and conversion costs.
#6120 of 6631 Re: 2001 Jetta TDI [01tdi]
Aug 14, 2009 (10:09 am)
Sorry about the bad news. Like I wrote earlier, if it wasn't the mounts, your looking at the transmission/transaxle. Just our luck, it's never the simple/cheap fix.
I don't think a trans service will help. So the options are new, used, or rebuild. With the $5000 you were quoted, new is out. You can buy a different Jetta for that. What did you learn about rebuilding the trans? Useless, please explain. Used may be an option. Most likely from a salvage yard. Most of the time they can tell you if it was working when they received the car. How bad is the leak?
The quote for the exhaust seems a little high. I don't understand why they would want to replace the exhaust system if the hangers and/or mounts are missing. This is something they should be able to fabricate. Are the mufflers shot as well? For $900, you should be able to get top of the line stainless. Check with your local muff. shops.
Convert to a 5-speed manual trans.....you don't want to go there. LOL. Way to much work, especially if you don't do the work yourself. More Work=More Money.
Sorry I live in South Texas. Little far to help. You will have to be persistent and "ferret" out the good prices. I got tired of paying a lot just because I had a VW. After a quick search, I found a rebuilt 5-speed auto for around $2100 w/ one year warranty. Not cheap but better that $5000.
#6121 of 6631 Re: 2001 Jetta TDI [underthevwhood]
Aug 14, 2009 (10:27 am)
I have read many forums online including a few at tdiclub and everywhere seems to say that when you rebuild the transmission it will last 100k at most then fall out again. However there have been a few cases when the transmission fell out sooner than that, and some when the rebuilt transmission fell out under 20,000 miles. These could be isolated incidents though.
The garage I took it too was kind of vague. They said it was leaking but only suggested fixing it and said it shouldn't be much of a problem. To me that seems like it is not leaking too much but who knows until I get a chance to look at it myself. They seemed to think it was more important to fix the exhaust before the transmission. The receipt says center exhaust hanger support and mount missing, and front exhaust poor. It passed inspection and the engine is not very loud so I don't really care about the exhaust. It seems fine to me, I might just weld it or make my own brackets once I get my welder.
The car shifts fine in all gears except for first. Off the line it kicks, and very occasionally it stalls itself out but will start right up again. Also when the transmission fluid warms up there is less of a problem with it. It stalls more often when cold in reverse.
I have to look in the area to see if there are any used transmissions. from what I have read it looks like their life span is from 100k to 150k and they start to fail.
#6122 of 6631 Re: EPC Light and Loss of Power [nitekim]
Aug 14, 2009 (8:15 pm)
Try resetting / zeroing the throttle potentiometer.
The procedure can be found on the internet. Essentually it entails turning the key "on" (dont start engine) and then slowly push throttle pedal to floor and slowly release. Then shut off key. This is supposed to resycronize the pedal to the throttlebody.
(My recolection of the procedure may be somwhat simplified.... please review the correct procedure.)
If a resync. does not "stick", then consider using VagCom to isolate the problem.
#6123 of 6631 98 Jetta Ignition Issues - Ignition Switch
Aug 15, 2009 (2:38 pm)
Mechanic says the ignition switch is bad b/c you have to Push the key in and jiggle it to function to get the starter to operate.
How does one go about changing the lock cylinder.
How about changing the ignition switch?
If I can not get it to start I can not check the ignition coil which might have been giving the daughter trouble.
Would love to get it started and then sell the high maintenance item. The car not the daughter. Ha Ha. She just got engaged and will need the money from the sale to help pay off bill to my sister and then some left over to pay for the wedding.
#6124 of 6631 Re: 98 Jetta Ignition Issues - Ignition Switch [revmarket]
Aug 15, 2009 (8:22 pm)
Good news- the lock cylinder and the ignition switch are two different parts. Replacing the ignition switch isn't that big a deal. Since you don't plan on keeping the Jetta, buy a Haynes repair manual at your local auto parts store. This manual is good enough for this job and does explain how to do the replacement.
I had to replace one on my '97 Golf. It was so bad that the headlights would not stay on. I think there was a recall on this years ago. I didn't bother checking it out, just replaced it. Not one of VW's greatest designs. I have had no problems since the replacement and that has been some years ago.
The only special tool you will need is a puller. I used a three leg puller, and it worked fine. The puller is used to pull off the splined collar for the steering wheel. Also, you may need a special shear-bolt. Anti-theft thing you know. I used a vise grips to get mine loose and reused the old "bolt". I have the new shear-bolt sitting in my tool box, lol.
Once you get the engine turning over, then we can tackle the coil.
#6125 of 6631 Re: 2001 Jetta TDI [01tdi]
Aug 15, 2009 (8:50 pm)
Yes,VW auto trans don't hold up so well. 100K is normal. Sucks when you are the one who has to pay for the rebuild. I may have to take back looking at getting the trans serviced. Almost sounds like it is all gummed up inside. Not until it warms up and the fluid is a bit thinner does it work. If the trans has been leaking, the level may be low as well. Worth looking at. The engine stalling is interesting. Has it always done that? Do you plan on keeping the Jetta for a while?
If the hangers/brackets are missing and the mufflers are fine, you fabricate new ones. It's not that hard for a shop to do. Take a look at new parts on the net and then look at yours. You can see what is missing right away.
Consider taking you TDI to another shop to get a second opinion. See what someone else thinks. Don't tell them what the first shop said, just tell them what you have told us here. See what they find out. My son saved a bunch of money doing this very thing.
#6126 of 6631 Re: 2001 Jetta TDI [underthevwhood]
Aug 16, 2009 (2:26 pm)
Yes I plan on keeping my Jetta for a long long time, That is the main reason I went for the TDI option. $2100 is not too bad for a re-manufactured? transmission that is a 5 speed automatic. Where did you find that? At least it will be brand new and the car will be basically new then. How much for installation, my understanding is that it is pretty much just bolt on and go. That and resetting the computer and hooking up the sensors. Is that all there is to it? And do I need a vag-com or special computer to reset the computer in the car?
Today the check engine light came on, next time I get close to an advanced auto I will have them check it for me, just to make sure it is the transmission and not some other error. So I start the car and let it idle for like 2 to 5 minutes and then it is fine, rarely stalls. However when I am coasting or it has to downshift into first it grinds the clutch horribly. Like someone learning to shift for the first time. After it warms up it does not shake as much when I put it into reverse either. I have to call this transmission specialty place tomorrow to get an estimate on rebuilding the trans, and depending on how much it costs I might have them change the fluid and see if that helps at all. I would like to change the filter to but I believe that it is a sealed unit and the filter is not changeable? Any one know this for sure? (Those sealed transmissions are a crock, just a way for the manufacturers to get more money)