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Sedans Volkswagen Jetta Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
6294 messages, Last post on Dec 07, 2009 at 6:05 AM
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Replying to: mudpup33 (Jul 30, 2009 9:07 am) Sounds like you are having a lot of fun! LOL. Looks like a lot of parts were just replaced without really testing them to see if they were faulty. I'm surprised that they didn't replace the 02 sensors as well. Have you been able to isolate where the clicking sound is coming from? Under the dash is a large area. Any chance it is coming from the engine compartment? Have you had the ECU checked? The clicking sound may be the problem or a result of another problem. If a relay is clicking, you should be able to feel it. That will give you the system it is for. I'm guessing that the check engine light is still on. What are the codes now? The P0606 I'm guessing is part of the ECU. The closest codes I have in my manual are 0604 and 0605. Both part of the ECU. May be a VW code. I would start with the ECU. Once you know it is good, you can move from it to other systems. Have you searched the net for the P0606 code? Sorry I can't be more help. This is a new one. Keep us up to date. Tracy
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Replying to: underthevwhood (Aug 06, 2009 12:40 pm) Thanks so much for your insight! Yes $905 was for the belt, tensioner, and WP. I called one place who will do it for $850, and I have others on my list to call as well. Thanks also for the reco on AutohausAZ. I'll check it out. I don't know if I am up for changing the belt myself, but I'm definitely going to look into getting a tech manual. Thanks again! David
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Replying to: thegipper (Aug 07, 2009 12:56 pm) I have followed his advice on several cars and replaced the pump and timing belt at the same time. I have had zero problems (various car brands), so it is probably worth the extra money, just to avoid a leaking water pump later (especially if you are on some lonely road late at night when it begins to leak). Bel Air Car Guy. |
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Replying to: thegipper (Aug 07, 2009 12:56 pm) I understand that you may not want to tackle the timing belt. I know over the years I have saved myself hundreds of dollars on repairs. Less I spend on labor, the more I can spend on parts. You should be able to get a Haynes repair manual at a local parts store. It's a basic manual. R.Bentley repair manual is probably the best. Autohaus carries this manual. When you are asking for quotes, ask for the parts and labor cost separate. I priced the three parts you are looking to replace at Autohaus, $125. So your cheapest quote so far is $850, that puts labor at $725, wow. Having them separate the two, you know how much each it is costing you. The stories I could tell you about the over priced parts game. Also, ask where the shop gets their parts. You want good quality parts at a good price. Last thing on this, ask if they are willing to put your parts on for you. You supply the parts, they install. Labor may go up a bit, but you can compare the cost between the two. If cost isn't really a factor, change the WP. I have used mine for 150K and three timing belt changes and no problems. No leaks, no overheating. Lucky, maybe, but I will not push it any further. $60 from AZ. Not much to pay for peace of mind. Make sure you use G-12. Other things to think about while that part of the engine is apart. Cam position sensor. It's behind all that stuff. There is no replacement schedule that I know of. If it fails, you get a check engine light and a poor running engine. Must tear it all down to get to it. I replaced mine around 90K when I was doing the belt. Noticed that some of the plastic around the pickup was cracked/missing. Check out the engine mount. They do wear out. With your mileage it's probably good, but...........it will have to be removed to do the timing belt and you should use NEW bolts when remounting the engine mount. What condition is your drivebelt in? Replace if it is worn, cracked, glazed, ect. Yes, it can get crazy quick. My son is going on vacation for two weeks. I get to do the struts, all suspension bushings, brakes, motor mounts, and the stuff you are doing. We're over $500 and counting. Most of the parts coming from AZ. Tracy |
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I just purchased a 2001 Jetta TDI and so far it is a good used car. However when I put the car in reverse it shakes so bad I think the mirrors might fall off. Also when in gear (its and automatic) Without pressing the pedal at all it coasts unevenly, Like someone is depressing the pedal slightly for a few seconds then letting off of it. It is frustrating because I have to parallel park on a daily basis and I don't know when the car is just going to take off on its own.
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Replying to: 01tdi (Aug 08, 2009 11:40 am) |
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Replying to: 01tdi (Aug 08, 2009 11:40 am) Also check the strut mounting hardware and your control arm bushings. If these are worn out, it can make your Jetta do funky things. But I agree with Mr. Shiftright, check out the mounts first. If you don't notice anything, time to take it to a shop. We all hope it isn't the trans. Tracy
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Replying to: underthevwhood (Aug 08, 2009 6:34 pm) But if it was the motor mounts wouldn't the car shake whenever the engine is on? When it is at idle or in gear (besides reverse) It is no different than my friends Honda Civic, but when I put it in reverse it starts to go nuts. I would think if the mounts were bad that it would do this all the time the engine is running, not just in reverse.
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Replying to: 01tdi (Aug 09, 2009 2:58 am)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Aug 09, 2009 9:09 am)
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