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Sedans Volkswagen Jetta Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
6290 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 7:48 PM
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Replying to: bpeebles (May 28, 2009 3:48 pm)
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Replying to: cjlloyd (Nov 29, 2008 3:53 pm)  Please lmk if you find the solution and how much it cost you. I will continue to research. Thank you.
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Replying to: sphinx1983 (May 29, 2009 9:18 am) If you have the ignition turned OFF when you swap ignitors, there is absolutely no damage you can do. (assuming you dont DROP or ESD one of them in the process.) Think of it this way... what is the difference between SWAPPING a couple ignitors - or REPLACING them? (Answer.... cost!) BTW: The "recalled" coil-packs was not due to VW mistake... the vendor who was contracted to build them took some shortcuts during the buid-process. VW ended up "eating" the cost to replace them. (I would assume VW dealt with that vendor approprately to recoup their losses)
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Replying to: bpeebles (May 31, 2009 1:51 pm) |
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Hi, I would really appreciate any help anyone can offer. I will try to keep this as simple and short as possible. So, I have a 2009 Jetta SE with 4,000 miles on. On Saturday I was parked with the flashers on. I came back to my car, which was off, and the flasher lights were frozen on - so they were lit up. In addition, the radio would not turn off. I started the car, thinking this would do the trick. No luck. Then, I noticed that all of the gear lights were lit up - instead of only having the gear that I had selected lit up. I promptly called service and took the car in. When I got there, the AC stopped working and the fan was like the sound of a jet engine - I am guessing it went into protection mode of some sort. So far service has stated they have no idea what is the problem. All of the computer parts check out fine. They have a specialist looking at it now, but I just got off the phone and he is still stumped. Has anyone ever heard of anything like this? |
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Battery was dead, jumped it & drove to work (2 miles). Needed to be jumped to get home & again next day. Went home & mildly cleaned off corrosion from battery post. Noticed the small fan was still running after car had been off for 45 min. Pulled fuse for fan & it turned off. Next morning car started, no jump. Small fan turning on/off but large fan still not kicking on. Replaced 30amp fuse on battery, nothing. Tried to disconnect battery to reset computer. After an hour, plugged it back up & car was dead, jumped it & drove for an hour, no troubles cept for A/C. Got home turned car off, went to unlock doors & lights flickered, clock reset, battery drained AGAIN. Next morning, wouldn’t even jump. Had battery tested, good but had corrosion. Replaced terminals & wire to fuse box. Car started right up, no problems, but still no a/c! Clutch is not engaging. Freon has been checked & is good. I was told it was "electrical". Can someone help me w/ a diagram of fuses/relays/modules that could be related & how to test them to find where problem is coming from? Let me add about a month ago, I had coolant temp sensor replaced because CEL came on. A/C worked before & after sensor was replaced. Thank you in advance - any advice is helpful! ~holli |
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bpeebles or Mr. Shiftright I had put in the new coil and everything was fine after I change the o2 sensor and the coil pack. It has been running great for the last few days. I drove it out to chesapeake today and when I got back home that pain in the A-- light popped back on. here is the list of codes it gave me 17608 fuel too rich, 17544 fuel too lean???? 18010 batty term B+? 16684 random miss fire, 16685 cyl 1 miss fire, 16686 cyl 2 missfire. I checked as much as I could. I did not drain the old gas out though so I don't know if that matters but after I fixed all the other stuff I had no more problems until tonight. Can you help me out again?? And how can fuel be too rich and too lean at the same time. Thanks for your help again. The Elizabeth River is looking pretty good about now if you know what I am sying. Thanks again. I will be looking for your answer as you have not steered me wrong on anything in the past. Thanks man
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Replying to: sphinx1983 (Jun 08, 2009 7:29 pm) HOWEVER: With all the goofy codes you are seeing, I would suspect that there may be a GROUND problem. Only a ground-problem could influence so many disparate systems. If I were working on that car, I would start by spending about an hour removing, cleaning, soldering, filing, checking every ground connection to the body I could find. I would pay close attention to the battery-engine, battery-body, and computer grounds. |
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Hi there. I have an 03 jetta automatic with 59k miles. Probably at around 52k miles the car gradually began making squeaking noises. i doubted it was me since the car overall has been ok. however, the squeak got so loud it almost has become embarrassing. i can only hear it when i'm driving at low speeds - upto 20 mph or so. i thought it was the brakes but they said the original front and rear still have a good 50% left. however, when they jacked up the car and just rotated the wheels, the squeak was loud and clear. they seem to think it's the rotors. do you agree that this is all it is? next, i have a grinding kind of noise every time i hit a speed bump or am driving down my drive way onto the street - there is a slight elevation from street onto driveway. it makes sort of a crunch noise. i can force this to happen when i bounce the car up and down on the hood. once i applied some wd-40 in the door hinge and that seemed to help a bit. does anyone know what i need to do to get rid of these noises? work i've had to do on the car include: - replace wheel bearing - barely covered under warranty period - brake light switch <-- retarded problem - covered by recall - check engine light due to coolant temperature system and thermostat - $150 fix i don't want to have any more out of pocket repairs! maintenance is ok.
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Replying to: niteflite888 (Jun 15, 2009 7:03 pm) Rotors by themselves CANNOT make any noise... they just spin around. Somthing must be touching/rubbing on a rotor for noise to be generated. It sounds to me that your brakes need a PM (Preventive Maintenance). It would not hurt to pull the wheels and remove the brake-pads. Clean everything up with wire brush. Check that the dust-shield is not rubbing on the rotors.File any burrs from the caliper-guides. apply brake-grease and reassemble. Oftentimes, by doing this, you may resolve issues such as what you are describing. I PM the brakes on my cars every couple of years to keep things working well. The salt used on the roads can really rust-up the brake-works long before pads are worn out.
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