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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

6629 messages,  Last post on Feb 07, 2013 at 1:54 PM

You are in the Volkswagen Jetta Forum.

What is this discussion about? Volkswagen Jetta, Sedan

Messages Page 601 of 664

#5995 of 6629 Re: 2001 Jetta 2.0L white foamy build up in oil filler neck and cap bottom [jodar96] by ruking1

Mar 01, 2009 (11:36 am)

Replying to: jodar96 (Mar 01, 2009 9:59 am)
I am also led to believe that is about "normal". for both gassers, VW's 2.0 and 1.8T. But....
 
In contrast, on a 03 Jetta 1.9 TDI pushing 114,000 miles. Oil consumption is at 1/4 to 1/2 qt (8 oz to 16oz) per 20,000 miles. This presents a dilema to going to a 25,000 miles OCI.
 
Does one just change it out 20,000 miles, i.e. do not add as it (1/4 to 1/2 qt. 8 oz to 16oz) is still in acceptable ranges. Or does one top up and go the extra 5,000 miles.Of late I just top it and go to the full OCI.

#5996 of 6629 Re: 2001 Jetta 2.0L white foamy build up in oil filler neck and cap bottom [jodar96] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Mar 01, 2009 (11:41 am)

Replying to: jodar96 (Mar 01, 2009 9:59 am)
Hard to say if this is normal or a sign of more severe internal oil gelling. You might want to consider removing a valve cover to examine the extent of this problem.
 
If the entire valve train is covered in this goop, you have a serious problem. If it's pretty clean in there, then the little bit of foamy stuff is just normal condensation.
 
In other words, you can't make a judgment about this issue merely from the oil filler cap. You have to dig deeper.

#5997 of 6629 Re: 2001 Jetta 2.0L white foamy build up in oil filler neck and cap bottom [Mr_Shiftright] by ruking1

Mar 01, 2009 (11:48 am)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Mar 01, 2009 11:41 am)
Indeed at 100 k miles intervals (check your specific owners manual for each has different requirements) you are for sure due a TB/WP and Vag.Com tune. Part of the procedure is to indeed remove the valve cover. At that time YOU or the technician and or both can do a visual inspection and ...come to conclusions. If you want to take it to a more serious level, you can also do (UOA's) used oil analysis before, during, and/or after you open the engine.
 
So for example at 100,000 miles (in addition to the TB/WP R/R and Vag.Com tune) my concerns were three fold: 1. visual camshaft wear 2. intake/egr clogging due to use of NON ULSD fuel 3. Sludge formation. I had swagged before the procedure little to NO camshaft wear 2. slight intake/egr clogging 3. no sludge formation. The news was better than swagged: 1. original tool markings on the camshaft 2. no clogging at all 3. no sludge formation at all.
 
If I was so concerned, I would do the UOA BEFORE; so you can see if the spot UOA has predictive value. The subsequent visual inspection will confirm or deny what you and or the technician think or may have projected. My SWAG is no harm no foul. BUT.... if not, remediate and....
 
Then I would do one to 2 UOA's AFTER: to check on the trendline.
 
I have also read in passing that 2.0 and 1.8T engines are prone to coking (by product is producing sludge)
 
So if you dodged the coking (aka sludge build up) bullet and the UOA/s indicates normal wear metals progression, indeed your 700 miles per 1 qt may indeed be normal.

#5998 of 6629 Wont start by wireline

Mar 06, 2009 (8:45 pm)

97 VW jetta 2.0 4banger manual
When i turn the key i have power and the lights come on but nothing else happens
New starter, ignition coil, battery, and battery connections, new distributor cap.
all my fuses seem in working order. When i touch the starter bolts together with a screwdriver the starter teeth turn with a high pitch whine sound but does not turn the engine.
Ive checked every electrical connetion that i can find and everything seems tight.
anybody got any suggestions???

#5999 of 6629 Re: Wont start [wireline] by bpeebles

Mar 09, 2009 (7:04 pm)

Replying to: wireline (Mar 06, 2009 8:45 pm)
If you have automatic xmission, the shift-lever may "think" it is not in Park.
 
If you have manual xmisison, suspect the switch on the clutch pedal "thinks" you do not have the clutch pushed.

#6000 of 6629 Re: 1999 VOLKSWAGON ALARM PROBLEMS [holt74] by heedro

Mar 09, 2009 (8:35 pm)

Replying to: holt74 (Jan 10, 2008 7:34 pm)
Don't know if you got a answer to your problem yet... but I know exactly what its is
The wiring harness in the drivers door!!.. if you take off the rubber boot that protects the wires by the door hinges you will find one of more wires that are broken... I had a total of 12, 8 of which the previous owner tried to fix with butt connectors... the wires get wet or move apart and the alarm system arms itself and the window rolls up!!!
 
I messed around with the remote to disarm also cause it also locks the doors
 
To temp fix it reattach all the broken wires.. and a perminatley fix, replace the whole harness for about 200$

#6001 of 6629 S 10 Idle Speed by fws4

Mar 16, 2009 (10:26 am)

My 1998 S 10 developed a major flex-pipe exhaust leak, but before I could fix that, it also began idling very high (sorry, no tach) at all times. Could the exhaust be causing this idle?

#6002 of 6629 Air Bag Monitor Light by dirtyharryone

Mar 15, 2009 (8:38 am)

I, added engine oil to an 06 Jetta, Diesel engine probably 1/2 quart over full, Air Bag Light came on in Instrument Cluster, will not go off. Could there be a link here?

#6003 of 6629 Re: Air Bag Monitor Light [dirtyharryone] by revmarket

Mar 16, 2009 (4:27 pm)

Replying to: dirtyharryone (Mar 15, 2009 8:38 am)
At the risk of sounding condescending:
Why would you think the two were connected?
 
Oil is to the engine what blood is the body.
 
Adding more blood to the body would not make your hat not protect you from the rain.
 
The airbag light signals that something is amiss with the airbag / passive restraint system in your car.
 
A sensor has determined that the airbag might not deploy as it should.
 
That should be handled by a professional.
 
Since the airbag can be deployed by accident when not needed and cause injury or death.
Please read your owners manual for precautions.
 
Most cars must have the battery disconnected for at least 2 or more minute to make sure the airbag is not deployed while working on any part of the passive restraint system.
 
An engine with too much oil may have that oil foam inside the crankcase and therefore cause damage. Remove the excess oil.
 
Pray this helps.

#6004 of 6629 Re: S 10 Idle Speed [fws4] by revmarket

Mar 16, 2009 (4:33 pm)

Replying to: fws4 (Mar 16, 2009 10:26 am)
Has the check engine light come on?
If so go to Autozone and have them read the codes for free.
The can give you a list of probable causes.
 
It may be that the Oxygen sensors are sending a signal to the engine computer sensing a lean or rich mixture. Then the engine is not going to run as smooth as it should. With the exhaust system compromised this surely could happen.
 
Or if so equipped an idle air control valve could have become inoperable causing the engine over speed.
 
Pray this helps.

Messages Page 601 of 664

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