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Sedans Volkswagen Jetta Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
6256 messages, Last post on Nov 30, 2009 at 3:06 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: revmarket (Jan 05, 2009 7:49 am) Only boneheaded mechanics who want to make $$ selling you parts will try to tell you that a "code" told them that a part was bad. Perhaps they do not want or know how to UNDERSTAND what the "code" is telling them. Examples; *)If a code says that the "MAF sensed too little airflow"... then you should check for air leaks. NOT replace the MAF. *)If O2 sensors are telling you there is too much oxygen in the exhaust... then suspect plugged injectors or low fuelPressure. To more specifically answer your question about O2 sensors going bad prematurly....An O2 sensor should last over 100,000 miles. Its life is shortend if your engine is buring oil or blowing antifreeze out the exhaust. That will contaminate the O2 sensors. Lets use some LOGIC against your specific problem: "P1128 Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Lean" This is NOT necessarrly related to the MAF because MAF does not measure 'leanness'.... the O2 sensors measure 'leanness' Instead, This means that the O2 sensor is telling the computer that there is not enough fuel being sensed in the exhaust based on how much air the MAF is measuring. So, to compensate, the computer is injecting more and more fuel in an effort to satisfy the O2 sensor. The problem is that the O2 sensor is telling the computer the WRONG INFORMATION. Thus, you are burning way too much fuel. I am surprised that your CEL is not *flashing* because running this rich can burn out your catalytic converter. Speaking of catalytic converter.... I am thinking that yours may already be burned up. You should also check/replace all vacuum lines. A vacuum leak can cause this kind of problem and the vacuum lines are cheap and easy to repalce. Any air leaking into the system AFTER the MAF is not measured by the MAF... (but is getting into the engine) One simple way to check for bad MAF is to disconnect the electrical connector from it and then start engine and drive for a few days. (This WILL lite the CEL) Check if the engine runs better without MAF connected. Above, I have given you a start in how how to diagnose your problem... I will let you continue from here...
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Replying to: bpeebles (Jan 04, 2009 7:17 pm) 
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Replying to: backy (Jan 05, 2009 4:47 pm) Write the dealership a letter and use words like "dangerous", "ineffective braking", "concern for my family's safety" and watch 'em jump. Be courteous and professional but let them know you want to be on record about this brake defect, "just for the record".
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 05, 2009 6:43 pm)
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Replying to: backy (Jan 05, 2009 7:42 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 05, 2009 8:03 pm) Other than that, I have absolutely no idea what you are talking about nor why you made that comment. 
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Replying to: backy (Jan 05, 2009 8:17 pm) What I meant was, why can't the VW dealer fix the brakes? The offer of buy-back suggests that they aren't too optimistic. This is primarily a hydraulic/mechnical system---everything is touch-able and replaceable. It's not like chasing electrons around the car. 
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 06, 2009 10:01 am) The return offer is on ALL of their used cars.
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Replying to: backy (Jan 06, 2009 11:05 am) |
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Does anyone know of a dealer, vendor or website that offers VW parts/accessories other than local dealer? Sometimes even a dealer sells parts to out of state customers at wholesale prices. Thank You.
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