Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans Volkswagen Jetta Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
6254 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 4:52 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
I'm posting this here because it seems to be more active than the Jetta 1999-2005 discussion. I just bought a 2005 Jetta GL 2.0L. It's in excellent condition, really can't tell it from a new car except for looking at the odometer (47k). But I am concerned about the brake feel. The brakes feel "mushy" to me. That is, they don't grab until my foot is almost to the floor, and if I continue to press hard on the pedal it sinks slowly almost to the floor. I mentioned this before I bought it, and the sales rep (long-time VW guy) drove the car and said the feel seemed normal to him. I realize different cars have different brake feel, and the car I traded (2000 328Ci) has a very firm brake feel. The rep said, drive it a few days and bring it back if it still concerned me, and they'd check into it. I did some checking online and noticed there was a recall on 2005 Jettas for the brake master cylinder. This is a VW Certified car, purchased new and serviced where I bought it, and I would expect all of the recalls to have been taken care of... but maybe not? The car has about 20 warranties on it (well, not 20, but at least 4: original factory warranty through 1/15, 2-year VW Certified warranty after that, the dealer's own 30-day/1000 mile warranty, and an 8-year bumper-to-bumper warranty I got in order to avoid unexpected repair costs). So if there is a problem with the brakes other than normal wear/tear, it should be covered. Those of you who know these cars, what is the "normal" brake feel? Is it typically "mushy", or should I be concerned and take it back to the dealer?
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: backy (Jan 03, 2009 1:59 pm) I don't think that is correct about the master cylinder recall. There was a recall for the brake light switch. Do you know this for certain? My records don't show it at any rate but they may be incomplete.
|
|
|
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 03, 2009 2:38 pm) Here is the recall info, from edmunds.com ("Maintenance, Recalls and TSBs" page for the 2005 Jetta GL): Nature of Defect: 3. SERVICE BRAKES, HYDRAULIC:FOUNDATION COMPONENTS:MASTER CYLINDER Recall Number: 07E023000 Dates Manufactured: N/A to N/A Number of Vehicles Affected: 13128 Date Owners Notified On: N/A Vehicle: 2005 Volkswagen Jetta Defect Description: CERTAIN CARDONE MASTER CYLINDERS WITH DATE CODES LOWER THAN DCA7078 SOLD AS REPLACEMENT EQUIPMENT FOR USE ON THE VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. THE SEAL ON MASTER CYLINDER CAN FAIL AND LEAK BRAKE FLUID. Consequence of Defect: LOSS OF BRAKE FLUID CAN RESULT IN POOR BRAKING PERFORMANCE, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN A VEHICLE CRASH. Corrective Action: CARDONE WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND OFFER TO REPURCHASE ANY DEFECTIVE MASTER CYLINDERS. THE RECALL IS EXPECTED TO BEGIN DURING APRIL 2007. OWNERS CAN CONTACT CARDONE AT 1-800-777-4780.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: backy (Jan 03, 2009 3:05 pm)
|
|
|
Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 03, 2009 5:32 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: backy (Jan 03, 2009 1:59 pm) Those of you who know these cars, what is the "normal" brake feel? VW brakes have always been firm and almost "touchy". Anything more than the pressue of my big toe would make the passengers lunge forward against their seatbelts. (I do know a guy with a Porsche that has better brakes than my Jetta - LOL) Is it typically "mushy", or should I be concerned and take it back to the dealer? I would be concerned! The first thing to do is the have the brake-fluid replaced and the hydrolic system fully bled. Bleed the ABS pump and clutch too! (The clutch fluid is 'shared' with the brake master-cylinder) Use only DOT4 fluid in VW systems. Are you aware that on ALL vehicles, brake fluid should be replaced every 2-3 years reguardless of miles? Your car is due for its SECOND brake-fluid change in 2009. Just so you are aware of my experinece with VW brakes... I have been servicing the brakes on all of my personal vehicles for many-many years. (Because I do not trust most so-called mechanics.) I have owned VWs since my 1979 Scirocco. I replaced the brakes on 3 VWs this summer. (including using laptop computer to bleed the ABS pump and valving.)
|
|
|
|
|
Hey guys... Owner of a 2000 Jetta GLS 2.0/4 CYL manual TRAN. The check engine light has been on since a week after I bought it used. Many different codes, VW says its the computer. Don't have $1,000 to drop into it. Last December it began to sputter and go through an ENTIRE tank of gas in 100 miles. or about 8 miles/GAL. Multiple misfires whenever I drove it. Replaced the 1 and 2 forward O2 Sensors and that cleared up the problem. Now again, 1 year later the problem is back. It may very well be the O2 sensors and if it is, that is fine I accept that. But my question is, what it causing this? Why are the O2 sensors going bad after 10,000 miles? I run 87 octane in it and from what I've read that is fine, but willing to switch if it will help the vehicle. I am receiving a P1128 code which points toward the mass air flow sensor, but that was replaced to no avail. Check engine light was still on. Thats when VW told me it was the computer. I appreciate any help or ideas. Thanks!
|
|
|
Replying to: bpeebles (Jan 04, 2009 7:17 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: smitteyb11 (Jan 04, 2009 7:40 pm) Does it have a warranty? If so get it replaced again. If the code says MAF sensor then that is probably your problem. This can cause bad MPG. Misfiring of the engine. As the fuel air ratio is not correct and the computer tries to compensate for bad information from the MAF sensor. Check the wiring connections. CRC makes a MAF sensor cleaner. Buy at an auto parts store. My Autozone has them. Spray that into the MAF sensor with the sensor off of the car. Reinstall the MAF sensor. Then run the car. See if that clears up the issue first. If it does then make sure your air filter is still good. If cleaning does not help then buy an after market MAF sensor that has a warranty and if it goes bad again use the warranty. Usually at Autozone it is a one year warranty. This of course if for re-manufactured ones.
|
|
|
Replying to: revmarket (Jan 05, 2009 7:49 am) Only boneheaded mechanics who want to make $$ selling you parts will try to tell you that a "code" told them that a part was bad. Perhaps they do not want or know how to UNDERSTAND what the "code" is telling them. Examples; *)If a code says that the "MAF sensed too little airflow"... then you should check for air leaks. NOT replace the MAF. *)If O2 sensors are telling you there is too much oxygen in the exhaust... then suspect plugged injectors or low fuelPressure. To more specifically answer your question about O2 sensors going bad prematurly....An O2 sensor should last over 100,000 miles. Its life is shortend if your engine is buring oil or blowing antifreeze out the exhaust. That will contaminate the O2 sensors. Lets use some LOGIC against your specific problem: "P1128 Long Term Fuel Trim mult.,Bank1 System too Lean" This is NOT necessarrly related to the MAF because MAF does not measure 'leanness'.... the O2 sensors measure 'leanness' Instead, This means that the O2 sensor is telling the computer that there is not enough fuel being sensed in the exhaust based on how much air the MAF is measuring. So, to compensate, the computer is injecting more and more fuel in an effort to satisfy the O2 sensor. The problem is that the O2 sensor is telling the computer the WRONG INFORMATION. Thus, you are burning way too much fuel. I am surprised that your CEL is not *flashing* because running this rich can burn out your catalytic converter. Speaking of catalytic converter.... I am thinking that yours may already be burned up. You should also check/replace all vacuum lines. A vacuum leak can cause this kind of problem and the vacuum lines are cheap and easy to repalce. Any air leaking into the system AFTER the MAF is not measured by the MAF... (but is getting into the engine) One simple way to check for bad MAF is to disconnect the electrical connector from it and then start engine and drive for a few days. (This WILL lite the CEL) Check if the engine runs better without MAF connected. Above, I have given you a start in how how to diagnose your problem... I will let you continue from here...
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans Volkswagen Jetta Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2011 Volkswagen Jetta
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
