Last post on Nov 10, 2013 at 1:53 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen Jetta, Sedan
#5877 of 6655 Re: Replacing thermostat in 2001 2.0L Jetta [jodar96]
Nov 23, 2008 (3:28 pm)
You said ==> "VW's plastic water pump impeller breaks whether you have $30 or $9 coolant. I am not cheap but I do have problem with rip off prices."
You could have installed the BRASS IMPELLER waterpump like I did.
I hope you also replaced the TIMINGBELT, TENSIONOR, and verious pullies on that engine while you had it torn apart.... Otherwise you will be in there again real soon because the TimingBelt is PAST due for a change at that milage.
HERE IS MY ISSUE WITH YOUR COMMENTS
If you had simply followed the VW recommendations and REPLACED the TimingBelt, waterpump, tensioner and pullies at the recommended 80K miles, you would have NEVER EVER had this problem to begin with. It is your own fault that you arrived at this point.
Also - The intake manifold is NOT blocking your access to the sparkplugs. The inner 2 plugs are angled in such a way that you can easilly replace them with a wobbleHead socket extension.
I could go on and discuss why the intake runners on the VW 2.0L engine are the way they are... but you do not seem to be willing to LEARN about VWs and instead want to complain.
HINT: Long intake runners create a wider torque-range by creating a ram-effect into the cylinders. This is one reason that VW engines are sooo easy to drive with a clutch because there is torque available right from idle.
I owned a Honda Civic once... even after 120,000 miles I was still stalling it becasue it had no torque at all unless I spun the engine over 2000 RPM. It was NOT very driver-friendly in that reguard. Also, the oil-filter was IMPOSSIBLE to access unless the car was on a hydrolic lift.
Conversly, VWs have always put the oil-filter right in the front where they are easy to access. I can change the oil in about 15 minutes by just opening the hood and sucking out the oil with oil-sucker.
#5878 of 6655 Re: Replacing thermostat in 2001 2.0L Jetta [jodar96]
Nov 23, 2008 (4:05 pm)
"It is like saying use only VW oil filter. Over some 35 years of owning some 25 different cars/trucks/vans/SUVs never ever used manufacturer oil filter or coolant "...
That is fine, but in the case of the VW oem badged oil filter/coolant why would you rather NOT use it or Mann or Mahle? We have already mentioned the LIFETIME G12 made by Pentosin, etc, vs change every (whatever) mileage) for the Prestone. OEM Bosch, Mann or Mahle made oil filters are actually specified for 30,000 miles oil change intervals. In my case I run 20,000 mile OCI's and with the advent of ULSD actually do 25,000 miles OCI's. .
#5879 of 6655 Re: Problem starting [pruzink]
Nov 24, 2008 (8:17 am)
This ended up being a fuel sensor that had gone bad. With only $40 I resolved the problem =)
Nov 24, 2008 (8:33 am)
Back again, this time with a new problem! My '02 Jetta GLS recently has been stalling. This has been intermittent as it would only happen once every couple of months, up until now. Here are the symptoms: as I'm driving my car, it feels as if it's not shifting into gear properly (I have automatic transmission), then finally after some time of driving my steering wheel feels as if it's locked up and my car eventually stalls on me (thankfully I've been able to pull over both times), once it stalls and turns off, the red battery light comes on. After several attempts of turning it on, pressing the gas, keeping it at high RPMs for sometime, etc. it still turns off if I let it get to low RPMs.
A variation of this has also happened to me when I've driven through puddles or in the rain - my car doesn't shift propertly and eventually feels as if it's going to stall. Any ideas as to what's going on? My CEL has also been on for some time and I was told I needed to replace the O2 sensor, is this related?
#5881 of 6655 Re: Stalling [xlaurax362]
Nov 24, 2008 (6:29 pm)
Diagnosing a stalling problem can be difficult. I applaud that you were able to describe most of the symptoms quite well. (You may be surprised how many folks append here asking us to resolve some kind of problem but do not even describe what the problem is.)
When you feel that the steering-wheel is locked up and the battery light comes on... this means that the engine has stopped running and is not spinning the power-steering pump and alternator. In other words, this is just a symptom of a stalled engine and may not be related to the root problem in any way.
The problem you describe after going thru a puddle is most likely your ignition system. (sparkplug wires getting wet and shorting out the spark to the cylinders for a few moments)
After the above - What we have left is still your stalling problem which is not easy to diagnose. At this point I cannot even narrow it down to Fuel, Ignition or electrical.
Can you perhaps describe the CONDITIONS under which your car stalls. (Wet, Cold, turning right, turning left, Below 1/2 tank fuel, Accellerating, Highway....etc) Basicly anything that can help us narrow in on what is happening?
#5882 of 6655 Speaking of G12...
Nov 25, 2008 (8:08 am)
bpeebles, sounds like you agree with VW that G12 antigreeze never has to be changed. I am curious if this just based on VW so stating or have come to your own informed conclusion on this? Others?
I am a long way from needing to think about this, as we have a 2005. I had figured that this would be something I'd look into when the car is about 10 years old, but since the topic has come up, I thought I'd see what people think about this.
Our other newish car has a long life antifreeze (Mazda calls it FL22), but the manual says to change at 10 years.
#5883 of 6655 Re: Speaking of G12... [jeffyscott]
Nov 25, 2008 (8:48 am)
Either are infinitely verifiable. Used Antifreeze Analysis, aka, UAA's can be done just like UOA's. Depending on your years or miles level of paranoia, you can take a sample and send it away for analysis.
#5884 of 6655 Re: Replacing thermostat in 2001 2.0L Jetta [bpeebles]
Nov 25, 2008 (9:44 am)
Thank you for your comments specially your intake manifold design desription. I figured you did not need to remove the manifold to get to the plugs. I don't have water pump problem. My point was a bad plastic impeller design and I do have every intention of using brass impeller W/P when I do the TB and W/P next summer.
I think you got confused about what issue I had. I just had an erratic hot engine where the temp gage climbed, so I replaced the thermostat.
I do like VW's for the way they drive and handle. Their reliability is nothing to brag about but the way they handle no Honda or Toyota can touch. I had a brand new 1985 Jetta 5 speed, put 180K miles on it. It was a great car. The gearing ratio makes the RPM run high. You feel like you need a 6th gear. I had a 92 325i that has similar gearing.
Taking about oil filter changes... I have had two Accords. I rather jack up the car and get to the filter than drip over power steering hoses and engine block with the filter sitting in the front. Filter changes are messier in 2.0L VW than in Hondas. I don't know about other VW engines. My 85 Jetta did not have power steering or spalsh guards to mess with, but the filter in it was in the same place. Actually it could be the same filter.
I do have issues with items that are lifetime like coolants or automatic transmissions that they claim it never requires service.....really?
Will report back on my son's Jetta if any Prestone coolant related issue comes up. If I learn a lesson, I would like you all to know.
#5885 of 6655 Re: Stalling [xlaurax362]
Nov 25, 2008 (6:37 pm)
The coil pack may be the culprit. The earlier coilpacks have been known to crack, allowing moisture to enter. This can cause the car to either stall, or shut down completely. Check and replace the coilpack, and that should resolve the stalling issue.
#5886 of 6655 Re: Replacing thermostat in 2001 2.0L Jetta [jodar96]
Nov 26, 2008 (12:13 pm)
I think the comments were offered up on (my) the assumption that no body on this thread wants to see have that kind of experience.