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Sedans Volkswagen Jetta Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair
6289 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 9:10 AM
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Replying to: foxro (Nov 20, 2008 11:50 am) Better to use a part from VW parts dept. Since after market ones like from Autozone (where I work) seem to not be up to specs to handle the load a VW puts on the part. |
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Replying to: yoshomey (Nov 11, 2008 7:18 pm) prior owner lost the master key and I had one made (not by VW) the barrel on the drivers door is broken but still cant silence the alarm even when actuating the door lock with a screwdriver!! and the key will not actuate the passenger side door! it DOES operate the ignition but with the alarm engaged, the ignition is locked out -- any clues?? or will a new master key being made fix this? thanks in advance for any suggestions! Joe Did you get the new master key? This is the first thing you should do so you have the right part. After that you should make sure you have the code for the radio to reset the alarm. Get it from the dealer and pay a hefty price. Otherwise put an after market radio in, but watch the extra wire that may be there to tell when oil changes need to be made. It might interfere with the OBDII getting codes at a later time. It may ned to be cut and covered. |
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Replying to: autoboy16 (Nov 19, 2008 4:03 pm) My one daughter really drives her car hard (the rough roads dont help) and her 2001 Gulf has needed some suspension work (springs and various rubber bushings) Reciently the flexpipe between engine and cat broke at 100,0010 miles. Although the warantee is really for 100,000 miles, the dealership covered all except $23. The latch on the armrest cover has broken one every single VW we own.... fortunately, replacment latch is about $10 and easy to replace in the driveway. This past summer with my 2003 Jetta, both front fenders started to rust. VW honored their 12Year/UnlimitedMileage corrosion warantee and replaced both front fenders. Overall, I know if any of us were looking for another car we would, without question, look for another VW. |
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Replying to: foxro (Nov 20, 2008 11:50 am) good luck harvey |
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My son's Jetta with 93K miles was acting up by temp gage going up and over heating. The fans were running, the coolant tank was at full level. I decided to change the thermostat and the coolant at the same time. It is amazing the VW dealer wanted $30 for a gallon of coolant. I bought Mercedes coolant from MB dealer for $18/gal for my E430. I don't know how VW justifies charging $30 for coolant. I ended up buying $9/gal Prestone that you can mix and use for all car brands. I question these car manufacturers coming up with their own coolant and ripping off their customers. Removing the thermostat housing was a nightmare. The lower bolt has the alternator right in front of it with no room to reach it, it took me hours with tools I had to rig somehthing up to get to it . I think VW's 4 cylinders are much more complicated to ge to simple maintenance items than some V-6 or V-8 engines. I have never seen intake manifold blocking spark plug access on a four cylider engine before. Joe
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Replying to: jodar96 (Nov 22, 2008 1:57 pm) Actually 30 for a gal is not bad given most of the other than dealer vendors sell a gal  25 per. This might not apply to the 2.0 engine, but the oem owners manual on the TDI engine specifies and requires G12. It is truly a lifetime coolant; unless of course, you have (a source of) contamination issues( head gasket leak etc) . I only replaced a portion of of my G12 (way less than a bottle of 1.5L, as you dilute 70% G12 + 30 % distilled water) when I had the 100k miles interval- TB/WP changed; as the container used for the G12 anti freeze catch proceedure was used for other peoples G12. (didn't want to contaminate mine with others and vice versa) If I had brought my own catch container, I would have reused MY old G12. So basically I made the decision to top it ( the proper dilution rate). So if the 2.0 engine oem owners manual specifies G12 it is indeed a HUGE mistake to NOT use it. So if you did use other than the recommended anti freeze you probably have contaminated the existing recommended antifreeze. As an after thought, the time to question these things is when you do NOT own it. |
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Replying to: jodar96 (Nov 22, 2008 1:57 pm) I don't understand why you would want to risk using the wrong coolant in order to save a lousy $21. I'd don't think I would trust Prestone to know what is safe and best for a VW engine or what is safe to mix with G12. In addition, if there was no actual need to change the coolant in the first place, how is VW ripping you off? Instead by installing G12 in their new cars, they eliminate the need to pay for routine coolant changes.
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Replying to: jeffyscott (Nov 23, 2008 8:06 am) I have had ZERO issues with coolant or engines. Are you still insisting on VW coolant? I have issue with them charging $30. What is in it that costs $30/gallon? VW's plastic water pump impeller breaks whether you have $30 or $9 coolant. I am not cheap but I do have problem with rip off prices. Joe |
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Replying to: jodar96 (Nov 23, 2008 8:58 am) Mixing ANYTHING else with HOAT has been known to cause a gell to form and may clog the small passagaways of the cooling system. You are gambling with making the engine into a boat-anchor by saving a few bucks. BTW: You can get G12 antifreeze from any diecent autoparts store. Do you really think that VW *makes* antifreeze..... I hope not. I use Pentosin which is the same company that makes the VW-labelled stuff.
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Replying to: jodar96 (Nov 23, 2008 8:58 am) You could have installed the BRASS IMPELLER waterpump like I did. I hope you also replaced the TIMINGBELT, TENSIONOR, and verious pullies on that engine while you had it torn apart.... Otherwise you will be in there again real soon because the TimingBelt is PAST due for a change at that milage. HERE IS MY ISSUE WITH YOUR COMMENTS If you had simply followed the VW recommendations and REPLACED the TimingBelt, waterpump, tensioner and pullies at the recommended 80K miles, you would have NEVER EVER had this problem to begin with. It is your own fault that you arrived at this point. Also - The intake manifold is NOT blocking your access to the sparkplugs. The inner 2 plugs are angled in such a way that you can easilly replace them with a wobbleHead socket extension. I could go on and discuss why the intake runners on the VW 2.0L engine are the way they are... but you do not seem to be willing to LEARN about VWs and instead want to complain. HINT: Long intake runners create a wider torque-range by creating a ram-effect into the cylinders. This is one reason that VW engines are sooo easy to drive with a clutch because there is torque available right from idle. I owned a Honda Civic once... even after 120,000 miles I was still stalling it becasue it had no torque at all unless I spun the engine over 2000 RPM. It was NOT very driver-friendly in that reguard. Also, the oil-filter was IMPOSSIBLE to access unless the car was on a hydrolic lift. Conversly, VWs have always put the oil-filter right in the front where they are easy to access. I can change the oil in about 15 minutes by just opening the hood and sucking out the oil with oil-sucker.
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