Sign In Join 



Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair

6262 messages,  Last post on Dec 01, 2009 at 3:39 AM

You are in the Volkswagen Jetta Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Volkswagen Jetta, Sedan


Messages Page 587 of 627
1
...
584
585
586
587
588
589
590
...
627
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion

#5853 of 6262
'03 Jetta GLI - Coolant always empty and Fans don't turn on by jetta603
Nov 07, 2008 (2:26 pm)
Reply
Prior to my car accident, I did not experience any issues with my car. A almost month after the accident, my coolant light came on. I couldn't even open the hood after the accident. I later got it to open and realized that the coolant tank was empty. Then I thought to myself I haven't heard my fans turn on in a while. Sure enough, the fans weren't turning on. I got my crappy insurance company to come pick up the vehicle and take it to one of the "approved" shops. A month later I pick up my car. I didn't like how they fixed my body kit, but I could deal with that sorta. 50miles down the road, my coolant light came back on. I looked and it was BONE dry. The shop towed my car back and for the first time a mechanic check my car. They call me back saying that there is a pin hole in some hose that has allowed air to get in. They then said it wasn't accident related and that I had to pay to the diagnosis. Is this possible for a pin whole is a hose to cause my fans not to turn on and my coolant to leak out at the point of impact? I just know that my car was in perfect working order prior to the accident, no lights indicating problems and regular check ups. Can someone help me understand please...
#5854 of 6262
Re: Codes P1550 and P0101 [freeantelope] by bpeebles
Nov 10, 2008 (4:38 pm)
Reply

Replying to: freeantelope (Nov 03, 2008 11:28 am)

The key here is your mention of replacing (the bladder gizmo behind the engine). That may have been a bad idea.
 
First of all, that thing is called the VNT actuator.
 
The turbocharger is a VNT (Variable Nozzle Turbocharger) and the adjustment on the 'shaft' of the VNT actuator is tuned at the factory. Altering it can have devastating effects on your engine. (like overboost!)
 
the code P1550 you are getting is pointing directly at that as the problem ( http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/17958/P1550/005456 )
 
Essentually, code P1550 is telling you that the computer senses a problem with the VNT actuator or its control piping. Also check your N75 valve.
 
Here is a website that has excellent photos of the inner-workings of your VNT... pay close attention to the very last moving photo which shows how the VNT vanes move.
#5855 of 6262
Re: Codes P1550 and P0101 [bpeebles] by freeantelope
Nov 12, 2008 (4:32 am)
Reply

Replying to: bpeebles (Nov 10, 2008 4:38 pm)

OK so I looked at the VNT site you gave me, that helped me understand how it works. One of the techs at a diesel fuel system here in Bangor replaced it for me, and it didn't work well....he then found out the exact specs to set it at and when he did that, it worked great, for a week..and then this issue started happening. I have ordered new hosing for the vaccum lines in desperation...I have replaced the MAF since, aftermarket, and checked the MAF connector using a multimeter (14 volts to pin 2, and 5 volts to pin 4)...so I think the connector is working fine. I also just ordered my VAG-Com system and bentley manual yesterday, should be here by the weekend.
 
Do you know the specs the VNT actuator should be set at for a 1999.5 TDI (new body style I think thats called MK4)?
 
I had to replace it (it was rusted out and didn't move at all from the previous owner).
 
Thanks for your efforts
Jason
#5856 of 6262
Alarm problem by yoshomey
Nov 11, 2008 (7:18 pm)
Reply
have a '94 just got it (comuter car) very clean - the dang alarm is sounding when the batt is connected
prior owner lost the master key and I had one made (not by VW) the barrel on the drivers door is broken but still cant silence the alarm even when actuating the door lock with a screwdriver!!
and the key will not actuate the passenger side door! it DOES operate the ignition but with the alarm engaged, the ignition is locked out -- any clues?? or will a new master key being made fix this? thanks in advance for any suggestions!
Joe
#5857 of 6262
Flooded Driver Side floor by myfirstvw
Nov 12, 2008 (11:23 pm)
Reply
I have a 2004 Jetta GLS....recently the floor on the driver side, front and back, is soaking wet - mat included. They've been there for about 2 weeks and show no signs of drying - I do live in the Pacific NW so its wet here a lot but the floor was flooded weeks before the rain really started. I can find no leak/hole etc. explanation for it and when I took it to a service station (not the crooked, dishonest, ripoff dealership) they wouldn't even look at it because it was on the driver side and it was just water on the floor. Apparently I'm supposed to contact the Water Doc but can't seem to find such business (in Kirkland, WA).
 
Any thoughts or suggestions or similar experiences would be greatly appreciated, a door seal possibly?? I lost my job about 8 months ago so I'd like to avoid a giant repair bill if possible (or a giant bill just to look at it and tell me its nothing).
#5858 of 6262
Re: Codes P1550 and P0101 [freeantelope] by bpeebles
Nov 13, 2008 (7:04 pm)
Reply

Replying to: freeantelope (Nov 12, 2008 4:32 am)

I see you are in Maine... were you aware that a highly-rated TDI mechanic is in Maine? Herm Pasker is in Richmond Maine.
I have even considerd driving from Vermont to see Herm for a TimingBelt change.
 
You may consider at least calling and chatting with him about your TDI problems.
 
You can find Herm and other TDI mechanics in this list
#5859 of 6262
Re: Flooded Driver Side floor [myfirstvw] by yoshomey
Nov 16, 2008 (6:06 pm)
Reply

Replying to: myfirstvw (Nov 12, 2008 11:23 pm)

well -- the first thing that I would do is to have someone sit in the passenger seat and with all windows / doors closed observe when you hit the car with a hose --
spray along the front cowling, door seal and window for a few min to see if there is a sign of where the leak is coming from
also just a thought -- have you noticed if the water is sweet smelling ???? this is a sign of coolant leakage -- just a thought and hope this helps a tad!
Joe
#5860 of 6262
Re: Flooded Driver Side floor [myfirstvw] by microj
Nov 16, 2008 (7:03 pm)
Reply

Replying to: myfirstvw (Nov 12, 2008 11:23 pm)

I had an 89 golf that did the same thing. After weeks of caulking and sealing all possible leaks with no results, I figured out what it was. On the upper left and right corners under the hood up by where the window meets the chasis are two drains that were clogged with leaves. once I cleaned them out water was able to drain properly and the water in the car dried up within a few days. So, lift up the hood and take a look up by your windsheild and see if there are drains there that might be blocked. I'm not sure if its the same for 04 jetta's but it's worth a look and it wont cost you anything!!
#5861 of 6262
2001 Jetta 2.0L Oil Consumption by jodar96
Nov 18, 2008 (4:21 am)
Reply
Does anyone know how to slow down the oil consumption of this engine? The engine uses about a quart every 700 miles. The car has 91K miles and ir runs great. There is zero oil leak and there is no smoke out of tail pipe at any time.
 
Is there any special product or oil to use? I have been using 5-30W name brand oil.
 
Thanks,
Joe
#5862 of 6262
Re: 2001 Jetta 2.0L Oil Consumption [jodar96] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Nov 18, 2008 (7:18 am)
Reply

Replying to: jodar96 (Nov 18, 2008 4:21 am)

You are either burning it or leaking it, there's no other way, so there is probably blue smoke that you can't see.
 
You might want to have a cylinder leakdown test done to see what the problem is. If it's valve guides you may wish to consider getting that fixed. At a quart every 700 miles, you are starting to put stress on your catalytic converter.
 
There's nothing in a can that cuts oil burning for more than ten minutes. You can gunk it up in there but that does more harm than good. If you are in a mild climate you can switch to a heavier oil, sure, like a 10W-40 or 20W-50, and see if that matters. I kinda doubt it but you never know. Or you could even run a straight weight oil if you can find one that meets your engine's specifications. But that could be hell in winter.
 
Anyway, get a cylinder leakdown test done and then at least you can end the speculation about where exactly the problem is, in the engine.

Messages Page 587 of 627
1
...
584
585
586
587
588
589
590
...
627
Prev
Next
Last
Go To Msg #
Search This Discussion
To POST a message, please Sign In.

New? Join Now!

Forum Tools

Please sign in.
Email Address:

Password:

Forgot Password?

Search Forums

Enter Keyword(s)

Advanced Search

Browse by Vehicle



View All Vehicles
Advertisement
Ask the Community
See What People Are Asking

Browse by Board

Browse by Topic


View All Topics

Today's Chats

Advertisement