Last post on Nov 10, 2013 at 1:53 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen Jetta, Sedan
#5343 of 6655 Re: Buy or Bypass [lynnvanv]
Oct 04, 2007 (5:35 am)
Here is how CR itself puts it (April 2007 issue):
If the only things that mattered to a
car buyer were performance, comfort,
and safety, Volkswagen would be at the
top of the heap. Its Volkswagen and Audi
models do well in handling, braking, and
standard safety features. But few VWs
have decent reliability.
Conversly, if all that matters to you is reliability, then I guess Toyota is your best bet.
I don't know about CR's use of the term "decent" there. I think it overstates the differences. I would have put it this way: most VWs have had below average reliability.
We bought the new model Jetta in 2005. It had several very minor items that were taken care of at the same time that we had it in for the one recall that it has had. After that we had a couple more significant issues taken care of under warranty. This was during the first year.
Since then, for the past 1.5 years, we have had no issues. We only have about 20,000 miles on it, though.
#5344 of 6655 Re: Buy or Bypass [jeffyscott]
Oct 04, 2007 (6:22 am)
I think your's and Cosmo's post sum up app 99,000 miles of 2003 VW Jetta TDI experiences for me. I do own Toyota's and Honda's, past, present and concurrently, so I would invite folks to ask comparison questions if interested.
Consumable items on the Toyota and Honda do WEAR (get consumed ) much faster than on the VW. For example I have received checks for so called faster wearing rotors and brake pads from Toyota. Some folks have reported normal change rates 18-20k miles. Mine where at 40-60k. On the VW Jetta for example, at 99,000 miles app half of the material in the brake pads are left.
To date, I have had two VW TSB's: 1. brake light switch replacement (never malfunctioned but changed anyway) 2. rear door lock parts replaced, from plastic to steel parts (again, never malfunctioned but changed anyway)
The goals for the VW Jetta is a min of 5 to a max of 10 timing belt/water pump changes 100,000 miles per timing belt/water pump change.
The goal for the Civic is a min of 4 timing belt/water pump changes 105,000 miles per timing belt/water pump change.
#5345 of 6655 Re: Buy or Bypass [jeffyscott]
Oct 04, 2007 (7:27 am)
Consumer Reports describes its rating system as follows:
"Models that score a (much worse than average) are not necessarily unreliable, but they have a higher problem rate than than the average model. Similarly, models that score a (much better than average) are not necessarily problem-free, but they had relatively few problems compared with other models.
Because problem rates in some trouble spots are very low, we do not assign a (much worse than average) or (worse than average) unless the model's problem rate exceeds 3 percent. If a problem rate is below 2 percent, it will be assigned a (better than average). If a problem rate is below 1 percent, it will be assigned a (much better than average)."
So, that implies Consumer Report considers a model with a 3% problem rate or better as "decent". Seems to me that a model that is only average is still a good risk. We're not talking about the reliability of 1960's British or Italian sport cars here.
#5346 of 6655 Re: Buy or Bypass [cosmo]
Oct 04, 2007 (7:40 am)
I think the whole statistical model/s is/are misunderstood.
The rates, whatever they are or purport to measure, are really statistical CHANCES of getting the so called -(old maid- the card game.). To me it is important what each dealer/oem warranty/logistic supply system will do to rectify the problem at so called no to reasonable costs.
So as it applies to TDI's and VW's (since we are on a specific VW thread) the dealers and oem/warranty/logistics system has notoriously taken the position/s its the customers fault/problem. So from a customer service point of view, they need to shape this portion up ENORMOUSLY. So if you do happen to have a good VW dealer, count yourself lucky!
So for those who do not wish to understand a vehicle, or do not have access to so called "guru's" I would say; stay away from VW's. For those who can see the problems, opportunities, can and want to use independent shops, can hook up with guru types, the VW is truly a hoot in almost every sense!
There is NO doubt in my mind that if you get one of the majority of the so called "good ones", that one will be very satified. So in my case, there is no doubt in my mind that 500,0000 to 1,000,000 miles (baring a crash) is do able. This of course is NOT a characteristic of a poorly made car!
#5347 of 6655 Re: Buy or Bypass [ruking1]
Oct 04, 2007 (8:25 am)
ruking1 puts it very well
"So for those who do not wish to understand a vehicle, or do not have access to so called "guru's" I would say stay away from VW's. For those who can see the problems, opportunities,can and want to use independent shops, can hook up with guru types, it is truly a hoot in almost every sense!"
There is a risk in buying any car. My wife has had two VWs a 1986 Golf made in Germany, and a 1997 Jetta made in Mexico. Reliability was/is never a question. I won't be purchasing another VW anytime soon because I don't have the time to devote to a car anymore like I used to, and I haven't found an import mechanic yet to help fix/diagnose the major things. Both VW dealership service departments I have dealt with were beyond reproach and VWOA only came through and helped me one time.
#5348 of 6655 '06 Jetta 2.0T
Oct 04, 2007 (1:38 pm)
I just bought my Jetta w/ 10k miles on it. Loving it so far. Do I need a special oil (Mobil 1) and special oil filters? I've been told that is the case by a friend who has a 1.8T, but he's very, very picky. Thanks.
#5349 of 6655 Re: '06 Jetta 2.0T [raytx]
Oct 04, 2007 (1:53 pm)
Yes, it is important to read your SPECIFIC year's (06) oem owner's manual with special emphasis on the oil specifications for the ACTUAL engine YOU have. VW specifications can be (and are) all over the place, but the lastest one is VW 507.00. Use the specified oil that meets OR exceeds your specific specification.
I would use oil filters either oem ( and usually oem'd by) or Mahle, Mann. They are manufactured to VERY stringent specifications, among them, being able to endure a (normal) 30,000 mile OCI!
So for example, while I use Mobil One Truck & SUV 5w40 aka Delvac One 5w40 (2003 TDI)for app 95,000 miles/100,000 miles, it does NOT meet the VW 501.00 (for TDI of that YEAR)!!?? HOWEVER, it EXCEEDS that specification with the CF4 specification! So depending on year/s and engine models, I would not necessarily recommend either. Indeed, given the specific specifications, I would not recommend Mobil or Delvac at all!!!
So on the come side of your 06 VW 2.0 engine meeting the VW 507.00 specification, some good oils are the ELF, (certain Mobil One EP)Motul and of course certain Castrol's (available usually at your VW dealer.) VW oem BRAND is also usually available, also at your dealer.
#5350 of 6655 Another Jetta starting/electrical issue
Oct 04, 2007 (3:10 pm)
Here is the run down:
2002 Jetta-VR6-TipTronic-"Hecho en Mexico"
Car will not start unless jumped. Not completely dead (like an alternator problem) but just the signs of a dead battery (clicking). Once jumped, is fine, until it sits overnight.
Had the battery replaced twice within the past 2 months (DieHard-International).
Alternator checked fine (had it replaced about 6 months ago w/a refurbished one).
Took to dealership three times and they had it for a total of about two weeks. The first time, they found a major draw from the radio. They disconnected the radio but the same issue. Took it back twice since then. Checked newest battery, fine. Checked alternator, fine. The last time they stated that there was a half amp draw but could not isolate where it was coming from. They also stated it sat for two days (w/ doors unlocked & windows down) then cranked fine on the third. Took it home, cranked it the next morning and no go. They asked me to not jump it and have it towed to them so they could better isolate the draw. Not too confident they can/will find it.
#5351 of 6655 Re: Buy or Bypass [marilyn0815]
Oct 04, 2007 (4:32 pm)
You may have "heard" some things.... but your statements contridict themselves.
Yes VWs have been ASSEMBLED in Mexico for many years.... but the components which you suggest are troublesome are NOT built in Mexico. (Engine, xmission...etc)
Dont take my word for it... READ the window-stickers. By Federal law, they must list the "country of origin" for all components.
(Copy of windowSticker is found under carpeting in trunk)
The REAL problem with VWs is that there are not many mechanics which know how to troubleshoot and work on them. Many mechanics take a small problem end up making matters worse.
#5352 of 6655 Re: '06 Jetta 2.0T [raytx]
Oct 04, 2007 (4:37 pm)
YES YES YES the 2.0 turbo REQUIRES synthetic oil and premium fuel.
This is not being "picky"... this is the nature of a turbocharged engine.
The Synthetic oil is the only kind that can stand up to the rigors of hot turbocharger bearings. Premium fuel is required because of the high combustion pressures induced by the turbocharger.... lest you may get holes in the pistons due to pre-ignition.
May I suggest you actually READ your owners manual several times cover-to-cover. You may discover a lot of things you did not know about your VW.