Last post on Nov 10, 2013 at 1:53 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Jetta
What is this discussion about?
Volkswagen Jetta, Sedan
#3908 of 6655 Re: 2004 Jetta Clutch Problems [600kgolfgt]
Aug 10, 2005 (5:51 pm)
Agree...and my experiece with clutches has been they have all lasted the life of the vehicle so far. None were VW but...
1989 Plymouth Voyager bought new, donated with over 120,000 miles and original clutch still working.
1986 Plymouth Horizon bought new, donated with over 120,000 miles and original clutch still working.
1995 Ford Contour bought with 70,000+ miles, now has over 130,000 and still running with, I assume, the original clutch.
1996 Ford Contour bought with 70,000+ miles, now has over 100,000 and still running with, I assume, the original clutch.
#3909 of 6655 Re: Clutch problems 01 GLX [verdugo]
Aug 11, 2005 (11:34 am)
I just bought a used 97 jetta and the car is in spectacular shape yet my fiance was driving our car which is a 5 speed. She is a new driver with a manual. If you get answers about your clutch problem because i am experiencing the same thing. Can you let me know what the mechanics told you about your car?
#3910 of 6655 Re: 2004 Jetta Clutch Problems [jeffyscott]
Aug 11, 2005 (5:47 pm)
I concour with jeffyscott... I have NEVER warn out a clutch on any vehicle. (all with over 150K miles on each of them) My wife and Daughter also drive manual xmissions with no clutch wearout problems.
The "big secret" is to NOT TOUCH THE THROTTLE until the vehicle is moving. After several weeks of this "practice", you will begin to understand the feel of the clutch. Revving the engine when starting off from a stop is a big NO-NO. One must have patience to wait for the vehicle to start rolling.
As an example, listen to the engine of a professional driver (trucker) as they start off from a stop. They NEVER-EVER rev the engine up until AFTER the clutch pedal is released.
It is the HEAT from friction that wears out a clutch. If you keep clutch-slippage to a minimum, then there is no heat.
More manual xmission tidbits...
After first starting a cold engine, put into neutral and release the clutch pedal for at least 30 seconds. This gets the oil-pump in the xmission pumping and lubricates the inside of the xmission.... then start driving.
The throwout bearing will wear out if you keep the clutch depressed. If you will be sitting still for longer than 30 seconds, put into neutral and release the clutch pedal. Use the BRAKE to hold the car still...never the clutch.
#3911 of 6655 Oil Usage and Transmission Oil for 5-Speeds
Aug 12, 2005 (7:42 pm)
Two topics here - I'll try to be brief. In another thread somewhere, I saw references to a quart of oil being used every 1000 miles on someone's new Jetta. I own a 1992 Jetta GL, it has over 187,000 miles on it, runs like a top and, yes, it does use oil. Yes, there might be a slight leak - but it has never, ever given me problems. I have more problems with the CV joints than I do with the engine using oil. I simply add oil. End of story. How much oil? Every other stop to the gas station (about 1000 miles) I check it and the car invariably needs about 3/4 of a quart. Not an entire quart. It runs good in every other respect. Now - Part II: the car has a 5 speed transmission. Do I need to add oil to the transmission - yes or no? I know I need to add motor oil to the engine but what about the transmission? Yes or No? I can't seem to get a straight answer from anyone. Now, tell me, if your answer is Yes: where do I add it - from inside the engine compartment or underneath the front of car? And now tell me this, IF you say No - WHY is that? I hope someone can give me a fully qualified response soon - today is August 12, 2005. Thanks very much. Ed My email address is EM935YHFaol.com.
#3912 of 6655 Re: fuel gage is not working [600kgolfgt]
Aug 13, 2005 (2:57 pm)
In reference to the access panel under the carpet of the trunk for the gas gauge controls, does anyone know if this same thing applies to a '97 jetta Trek (GT) edition? My gas gauge is totally wonky; sometimes it reads right and other times it bounces back and forth a bunch - it drives me nuts because I can't tell how much gas I have... this just started but I really don't want to have to tell when I need gas based on my tripometer.
Thoughts much appreciated ! Thank you!
#3913 of 6655 Re: Oil Usage and Transmission Oil for 5-Speeds [jetta92owner]
Aug 13, 2005 (4:21 pm)
I will attempt to answer your questions as best as I can determine what they are.
Do I need to add oil to the transmission - yes or no?
Not unless it is leaking.
IF you say No - WHY is that?
Because if it is not leaking, the xmission lube level will not change.
HOWEVER: Since you say that you have 187,000 miles on your Jetta, I would suggest that you consider CHANGING the xmission fluid. (Use only VW manual xmission lube...which is synthetic)
BTW: It is not uncomon for CV joints to need replacing after about 90,000 miles.
#3914 of 6655 spark plug boots
Aug 15, 2005 (10:47 am)
I recently changed the spark plugs on my 2001 Jetta. One plug was hard to access and I mangled the metal boot slightly trying to remove it. I think I may replace all wires anyway, but am wondering if there is a tool sold for removal of these boots.
Thanks for any assistance.
#3915 of 6655 parking brake cables
Aug 15, 2005 (12:18 pm)
my wifes 2000 jetta vr6 has one of the parking brake cables frayed at the end just as it goes in the cable out by the wheel causing the brake to stick on I had it on the lift yesterday and without taking every thing apart it looks as if you have to drop the exhaust to get the cable down or can i just take of bolth ends and feed it out of the cab to the wheel up under the heat shield because that does`nt`t look like a simple job to remove any one else had this problem
#3916 of 6655 Jetta 2.5 A5 Doors Rattle
Aug 15, 2005 (12:42 pm)
The following contains information about my visits to the dealership regarding door vibrations/rattles when the stereo is on. The rattle occurs when the music is on whether or not the car is stopped, parked, or being driven. It also occurs when the music volume is set at low, medium, or high. The volume must be extremely low in order for the vibration/rattle to stop. I might as well turn the stereo off. Why then did I spend more money for premium sound?
I stated front & rear doors rattle when music is played.
Tech Notes: Verified concern on road test - Performed tech service bulletin 70-05-01 Added foam insulation to doors. Retested OK
FP Number: 1KM-898-001 Description: Foam
FP Number: 1Y0-871-435 Description: Tape
I stated right front door was still rattling when music is played. The Tech, my boyfriend, and I listened to the rattle and discovered the chrome seal on the door was vibrating against the window. Tech stated he would add a felt strip between the chrome seal and door.
Tech Notes: Verified concern on road test - Added foam insulation to right front mirror housing - Retested OK
I was very confused why the Tech did not add the felt strip between the chrome seal and door as he stated he would, especially since all three of us discovered where the rattle was coming from. Instead, he added foam insulation to the mirror housing? Very confused...
Same FP Numbers and Descriptions as Visit #1
I stated right front headlamp went out for half a day. The warning indicator came on during that time.
Tech Notes: Removed headlamp assembly and checked all parts. Connection was loose. Tightened connections and reassembled headlamp. All OK at this time.
I stated my right front door still continues to rattle. Also stated felt strip was not added during last visit.
Tech Notes: Performed felt strip insulation to left front window. Road tested OK Once again, I felt very confused. Why was the felt strip added to the left front window when the rattle was on the right front window/door? I am also very confused why the Tech states the car has been retested and is OK when the problem still occurs.
FP Number: 533-867-910-A Description: Felt Strip
I stated front window/door continues to rattle. The Tech, my boyfriend, and I once again hovered around the door to find the rattle. Tech explained that Volkswagen will not allow him to add the felt strip completely along the door seal for safety reasons because of the location of the airbags. He was only able to cover 1/3 of the door with the felt strip.
Tech Notes: Retested and tested other three A5 Jetta per VW instructions - All exhibit the same if not louder rattle - We are waiting to have instructions from VW Quality Tech Manager on further repair strategy. We will contact customer for meeting with Quality Tech Manager for this concern.
I've been waiting for about three weeks now and have not heard from the Quality Tech Manager or the Dealership. I will be taking in my car, once again, for the recall I received in the mail. (Recall: 2005 Model Year Jetta with 2.5L Gasoline Engine - Inspect Engine Compartment Fuel Supply Line Clamp and Replace, if Necessary) At that time, I will ask for an update. My rattle seems to be more annoying as time goes on. The other day I was listening to Bob Marley and had to change the station because Bob was rattling too much. This is unacceptable and BS! I can't wait to see the Quality Tech Manager to discuss my DISSATISFATION.
#3917 of 6655 VW Jetta timing belt replacement?
Aug 15, 2005 (1:00 pm)
I have a '99 VW Jetta with automatic transmission. I have been told that it is a royal pain to have the timing belt replaced, not to mention very expensive. I have been browsing postings trying to figure out about when (mileage-wise) these belts usually go and they say anywhere from 60,000-105,000 miles. Is there a typical point at which one needs to replace their timing belt???