Last post on Nov 22, 2013 at 9:45 PM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
What is this discussion about?
Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon
Dec 16, 2001 (10:57 am)
I bought a "preowned" 98 Taurus in 1999 with 23000 miles on it. IN the beginning, it was a mechanical nightmare. The shop had the car more than I did for the first year. After I made sure everything was fixed while under warranty, I was satisfied except for the transmission. The Ford dealership said there was no problem, but I knew better. However, you can't argue with factory reps. I also tried contacting ford through e-mail and they were of no assistance. I became totally frustrated with ford. I like my car. I have all the toys including the big V-6. Howwever, I know my transmission is slipping slightly as I can feel it and my gas mileage has diminished a bit. I WILL NEVER buy another Ford product. I will wither go GM or foreign from now on. I had a Buick Regal prior to this car and I positively LOVED it! However, it had alot of mileage on it and I often go out of state by myself and was concerned about breaking down. I gave it to my son and then my daughter. She sold it only after she could afford a newer vehicle. I am presently selling my son's t-bird and I bought him a Chevey Blazer ( which I love ). My husband also has a Blazer. So, I word to the wise - if you are thinking about buying a ford - DON'T! The product stinks and so do the dealerships.
#424 of 3012 re: Never Again
Dec 17, 2001 (9:24 am)
That's how I feel about GM, after 5 years of Grand Am ownership. I've owned 15 cars, English, French, American, Japanese, you name it, and the Grand Am has been the worst. Nothing but problems since day one, and I haven't had good experience dealing with GM on these issues, either. Even though I have $2,500 in GM points on my VISA card, I bought a Taurus this time, because I had a good experience with an '89 I bought new and drove for 5 years, and because I'm hearing good things from people who own new ones. My Grand AM has been in the shop every 3 months since I bought it new. Some of the problems include: pwr steering pump, suspension bushings, struts, strut bearings, steering column bushings, alternator, carpet disintergrating in non-wear areas, locks not working, doors rattling in frames, rust bubbling along lower window gaskets, intake manifold gasket replacement, supposedly clogged injectors (I was told by the service dept. that the 3.1 litre engine "doesn't like Canadian gas")...so many things that i'm starting to forget them all. GM makes a few good cars, like the Buicks with the 3800 motor, and some trucks, but that's about it as far as I can tell. I think they make more bad cars than good. Too bad you had all that trouble with your Ford. From what I've read on the net, your case would be more the exception than the rule. But it just goes to show that it only takes one bad experience to put someone off a brand for life (like both of us). Too bad car makers don't worry about that a little more. Ford certainly isn't innocent, with their 3.8 litre head gaskets and plastic intake manifolds on the 4.6 that crack.
#425 of 3012 brake rotor questions
Dec 18, 2001 (9:55 am)
We have a 99 24v with 16K miles. There is vibration in the steering when the brakes are pressed and a slight pulsing in the steering when turning.
Took the car back to the Texas AutoNation Ford dealer where we bought the car. They quickly turned the rotors and said nothing else was needed. I do not understand why there was a problem to begin with. I asked them check out the car carefully expecting them to find a cause for the symptom.
Am I missing something here? We have a second 99 that I have put 46K on (daily 52 mile commute to downtown) that does not have the brake problem. What is considered normal for re surfacing rotors? What are normal wear parameters? Are Ford rotors inferior to others? I have heard they are thinner. Where might I find unbiased written documentation of that to share with the service manager who will acknowledge no shortcomings whatsoever and acts as though I just fell of a turnip truck. I have a history with car dealers and do not trust them and their shops. The service manager acts as though Taurus' have never had rotor problems. He also stated that turning them would not have any negative affect on the problem re-occurring even though they would be thinner and therefore not dissipate heat as well.
My 89 Taurus went through 3 sets of rotors before Ford replaced them a forth time which corrected the problem for good.
That car was traded in at 118K after complete AC replacement 90K and transmission rebuild at 68K, paint went bad as well.
Transmission was at least partially my fault. Only had the fluid replaced once during the 68K and that was not a flush, just a drop pan and clean filter. I have since learned better.
#426 of 3012 trebor10
Dec 18, 2001 (3:37 pm)
You had a warped rotor. Somebody probably tightened the wheel nuts with an impact gun. Happens every day to just about every brand of car. What specifically are you asking when you say "what is considered normal for resurfacing rotors" and "what are normal wear parameters"? Do you want original thickness specs, machining limits, minimum wear thickness, allowable lateral runout, parallelism specs?
Dec 18, 2001 (10:51 pm)
I got my 2000 with 8800 miles on it (company car) and it had warped rotors. Dealer said it's "within spec" and balanced the tires. Helped a little but the problem isn't gone. I think it's a common Taurus complaint and I don't believe it has anything to do with lug nuts.
Dec 19, 2001 (6:21 am)
alcan, thank you for your input. I want to understand when (under normal circumstances) one would expect to need to turn rotors (miles, brake pad change, etc.). And, how to limit problems in the future. The Dealer found nothing wrong with the braking system but they are sure it is fixed. ???? Are they saying they just have no way to know what happened but since the car is under warranty they will fix it?
So in some cases warped rotors can be corrected by cutting them, yes? Does cutting the rotors reduce the heat dissipation ability of the rotor and increase the potential of warping again?
I have watched when the tires were rotated and balanced and they did use a torque limiting device. Are you thinking the Discount Tire store is contributing to or causing the warping? Even though they are using this limiter? Are you saying that I should not allow someone to use an impact gun on the car? I expect that even the Ford dealer uses impact guns when they change or rotate tires.
How did you learn all about rotors and stuff?
Dec 19, 2001 (7:25 pm)
Unfortunately, there are no fixed guidelines for how often rotors should be turned. It's like asking how often should brake pads be replaced. There's too much variability in driving styles, terrain, original thickness of the rotors, etc.
I had my front rotors start to warp around 17K miles in my '90 Sable, so it looks like Ford hasn't solved the problem in later models.
But the front rotors on my '80 Volvo (with 235K miles) have never been turned (or replaced), and the rears have been turned only once (to remove scoring).
BTW, the answers to the questions in your 2nd paragraph are yes and yes, IMHO.
Dec 19, 2001 (8:24 pm)
I've had VERY good wear from NAPA premium rotors. I replaced the factory rotors with these and my warping issues went away. IMO, the FORD factory rotors are on the "cheap" side. I also upgraded to carbon-metallic pads. My '96 Sable stops on a dime and tries to give change
Dec 20, 2001 (9:09 pm)
Like I said in an earlier posting, I have found that by putting only high quality parts in your car, you will save a lot of grief in the long term.
When replacing rotors and brakes, buy the quality, name brand only parts. I like Bendix brand. They have saved me from having the kind of trouble that trebor10 has been having. I used to have the same problems when I put the cheaper parts in my cars. NEVER Again will I use cheap parts.
Unless the brake parts are covered under a recall, warranty, or other, take the car to a shop that will install your pre-purchased quality parts, or one that purchases quality parts and installs them automatically.
#432 of 3012 Season's Greetings
Dec 21, 2001 (11:58 am)
Can't argue with any of the above. In my experience, using an impact gun can overtighten lug nuts, causing warping. I always use a torque wrench, and try to re-torque them myself after a shop has had them off, unless I know they tighten them by hand using a torque wrench. Better quality shops will, but I don't know about Ford dealers (not that they're not 'quality shops' but they deal with a lot of volume, so may use a gun to speed things up). Impact guns take a lot of abuse, and their torque settings are often inaccurate. I think a rule of thumb that some people subscribe to is that you turn the rotors every second pad change, but I don't turn them unless there's a reason. If the pedal doesn't pulse, there's no pitting, scoring, etc., why turn them? It does shorten their life and reduce heat dissapation ability.
On another note, I finally got my new SEL wagon. Love it so far. One thing did happen though that I'd like to ask you all about. AFter an hour on the hi-way, I stopped for a bit. Then started up again, and the ABS light stayed on. Went to a Ford dealer, but they were getting ready to close up, so left there, and the light went out. Hasn't happened since. Car only had a couple hundred miles on it when this happened. Any ideas? If it doesn't happen again, I won't bother taking it in, but I am curious about it. Wonky sensor? Something sticking?
Happy holidays everybody!