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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

2996 messages,  Last post on Dec 01, 2012 at 9:47 AM

You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Forum.

What is this discussion about? Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon

Messages Page 38 of 300

#367 of 2996 by sable93

Jun 14, 2001 (3:00 pm)

Glad you loved your Sables.
 
This is the second Taurus/Sable I've owned.
 
1. 1993 Mercury Sable GS = 2 head gasket jobs
      Cost = $2800
2. 1997 Ford Taurus = new transmission + other
      Cost = $4000
 
Luckily, the Sable's head gaskets went under a three month warranty I got with the car in 1999. Then, they went again a little under a year, so it was also covered under warranty. I was not as fortunate with the Taurus though.
 
I've had MAJOR powertrain problems with both my midsized Fords, so from my experiences, Ford will not have a repeat customer anymore.

#368 of 2996 2001 Taurus by wkohler

Jul 12, 2001 (11:18 am)

Have seen posts regarding reliability of 2001 Taurus'. I own a 2001 Taurus SES, Vulcan engine, with adjustable pedals, and antilock brakes. Have approximately 9300 miles logged on the vehicle. Have not had ANY problems to date. Have taken the vehicle to the dealer twice; both times for oil changes and a tire rotation. Has been a great vehicle so far. I use it as a second car, so most of the driving is around town, back and forth to work, etc. Very few highway miles. Didn't buy the vehicle because I'm a Ford person. Actually I'm a GM person. Just got tired of looking for a vehicle, so bought the Taurus at the last dealership we stopped in that day in October 2000. Tried to sell me a 2000 SE, but got the 2001 with antilock brakes and CD player for about the same price as a 2000 SE (casette player and no antilock brakes).

#369 of 2996 Any help would be appreciated re:Taurus Wagon by snowbuniez

Jul 14, 2001 (7:46 am)

I own a 1997 Taurus LX Wagon with 57,000 miles on it. It has been an ok car, never really what I wanted but it is great for the kids.
Anyway, this last trip to the dealership has been grueling. Last weekend it started to hesitate when you first start to pull out. Then it went to starting ok, but when I put it in drive it will stall. Now, when I brake, it revs on it's own and tries to inch me into traffic (I am sure it is possessed) The O/D light seemed to be flashing a code and the check engine light was on.
I had it towed to my dealer (Bought the Ford extended warranty) they have had it all week and replaced a few little things and said it was fixed.
   I got 10 miles from the dealership and it is doing it again. They told me to drive it until another light comes on because their "computer" they hook to the car says everything is ok.
   I am at my wits end, anyone have any ideas? Please feel free to email me also, as I have pulled out all of my hair and cannot leave the house..

#370 of 2996 2000 Taurus by snowman

Jul 14, 2001 (3:39 pm)

I am in the market for a car. This time I will definetely buy domestic. I spotted 2000 Taurus for $12.5K with 22K miles. However I am very reluctant after I have read all transmission problems. Is there any 2000 owner out there that can share his/her experience with us.
Many thanks

#371 of 2996 2000 Taurus. by rayfbaird

Jul 14, 2001 (7:40 pm)

If you are interested in a domestic this may be the right car. It is not even due for it's first 30K checkup yet. Magnificent. Unless they didn't change the motor oil at regular intervals there is little opportunity to damage a vehicle in that much time. Get oil change records if you can.
 
Take the car to a transmission specialist and have them check it out carefully. If it gets a clean bill of health you might want to seriously consider it.
 
My Dad has owned 2 Taurus' and has absolutely loved them. Domestics really build comfortable cars. His first did have transmission problems, but he never maintained it. I also had a tranmission problem on a truck that I purchased new. I would take it in every 15,000 miles and say, to the dealer do your scheduled service. Well, at 90,000 miles I had to have a transmission overhaul. The dealer had never changed out the transmisison fluid. The service manuals uniformly say "Inspect" the transmission fluid. THIS is BOGUS. By the time the tranny fluid smells, and looks black it's too late.
 
You have a much better chance if you do the following: change the transmission fluid every 30,000 miles or 2 years, put in synthetic transmission fluid, and put in Lubegard at the time of change. (see www.lubegard.com) It might also be good to install a transmission cooler. The Toyota Higlander comes with a factory installed one.
 
Why? Heat is the enemy of transmissions. It produces acids that destroy seals and metal. Synthetic fluid and Lubegard provide better heat transfer and durability. Frequent changes will maintain the best qualities of the fluids.
 
Also, strictly follow the SEVERE maintence schedule. I also take the car in for an annual checkup. You will save a lot of money in the long run.
 
Example, I didn't repair a wobbly tire for 30,000 miles once. It was a bad wheel bearing. Because I didn't repair it, I also had to pay for a ball joint, and control idler arm. A $150 repair turned into a $600 one. I'm not a mechanic, but I have learned these things over the years in the school of expensive repairs.
 
Since I followed this conservative maintenence procedure I have been able to get many more miles out of my car before major repairs.

#372 of 2996 97 Taurus crummy build quality by wijoco

Jul 14, 2001 (9:15 pm)

97 Taurus LX Duratec 56,000 mi:
 
Numerous trivial problems since its purchase with 15,000 mi...
Since purchase, power steering system made a miserable groaning noise while braking and turning at low speed. Dealer adjusted a pressure release valve in steering pump, and the problem is now less frequent.
Broken shift indicator (console shift), replaced under warranty.
Keyless entry retainer broke at 25,000, now works intermittently
Fuel guage suffers from a ridiculous variation since purchase. It fluctuates by as much as 1/3 tank while driving, depending on direction and angle. NEVER registers more than 3/4 tank, even when full. Dealer supposedly replaced sending unit in tank at 30,000mi (my cost), but condition never improved.
Washer fluid light quit at 30,000, dealer supposedly replaced washer motor (my cost), but didn't fix it.
Passenger front window motor quit at 40,000 mi (my cost).
Over the past month, engine accessories have been squealing, and the charge light came on last weekend. Upon inspection, I found the washer fluid hose torn and spitting on the drive belt! Rigged up the hose with gasket seal and duct tape, hit the drive belt with some belt sticky to stop the slippage.
Wiper/washer switch is very erratic, and seems to be worsening.
Driver's seat seems to be loosening from the floorboard (power seats). I don't know if it's a bad motor or loosening bolts in the floorpan, but it's getting unnerving.
Slightly more serious:
Continual rotor warpage (4 wheel discs), all four machined, then replaced, then machined again. Now warped again with the hot Va weather.
Breakdown 55,000 mi. (Failed fuel pump)
Also irritating me is the bizzare shift pattern of the automatic. Harsh 1-2 shift, buttery smooth 2-3, and somehwere in between 3-4. It's so slow to downshift, ("Duh, which gear should I pick?")
that it sometimes takes a full two seconds to engage a lower gear when I mash the gas. A real waste of 200 hp. The upshift patten under heavy throttle is really strange, as 1-2 lurches harshly, but 2-3 and 3-4 actually SLOW DOWN, as if the transmission has a hard time engaging the bands under power. Plus, the A/C doesn't blow as cold as it did when new(er), as it takes a full 8-10 minutes to cool the interior now. It's not an airflow problem which might be caused by a restricted pollen filter, but an air temp problem. An A/C problem at such low miles just might be the last straw. It's been an OK vehicle, but not one that changes my opinion of American engineering and manufacturing. This car so far has been typical of previous domestics I've owned, which is not a compliment. I wonder if there are good factories and bad factories (mine was built in Chicago).

#373 of 2996 Thanks guys by snowman

Jul 15, 2001 (7:32 am)

Rayfbaird, Thanks for the advice. I have never driven Ford before. Is synt. transmission oil available for Taurus and that does not void the warranty?
The one that I found is a program car, it might be off lease or off rental however it looks like brand new.
Have you get any cooler installed yet? If yes than what is the cost for it? I am definetely considering extended warranty too even tough I take care of my cars well.
 
Wijoko, Sorry to hear all those problems. I have been using imports for last 10 years. What I learned so far is they don't worth the premium pricing. Imports-even though they build here- don't cause severe problems but little annoying things are very expensive to fix. Also their quilatiy is slipping too. I had an 99 accord up until last march, it was wrecked so I was following the accord problems topic. it was unbelievable, so many problems. Civics, accords, camrys...What I say is I think there is no difference between domestic and import. It is all luck.

#374 of 2996 Taurus Transmission Problem by johnnybravo2

Jul 16, 2001 (4:27 am)

I too am having problems with my transmission in my 99 Taurus SE. I first noticed the problem beginning about three months ago. On that day while driving the traffic did not come to a complete stop but you would slow down then speed up again the transmission felt like it lost power then it sounded like someone grinding a gear. The first time I heard this I didn't know what to think and it didn't happen again so I thought that I was just hearing things. Then about a week later while starting to move from a stop light and shifting from 1st - 2nd it felt like the car lost power then it slammed into gear (it felt like I ran over a tree stump) I brought my car in to a shop to check the transmission fluid level and asked if the filter should be changed, they said that the fluid level was fine and that with the mileage that the filter should not be bad, but as a filter goes it could always be changed.
I decided to let it go and see if it happens again. After a month nothing happened then it started up again so I brought it into the dealer (under extended warranty) and they said that they could look at it in about a week because they are backed up with other Taurus transmission problems (go figure) the guy at the service counter said that it the fluid was low and that it needed to be replaced (he figured this out with out looking at the vehicle) and that it would cost me because that is no covered under the warranty, I told him that it is no the fluid because I had that looked at and it was something else. He got snotty then said well, I don't know what it is and you will have to leave it with us and we will look at when we are not busy (which could be after a couple of years.) I told him that I would have to bring it back.
 
My question is: Has anyone else had this similar problem, if so what did you do to fix it? Thank you for all your help.

#375 of 2996 95 taurus air conditioning by equasnitschka

Jul 16, 2001 (6:26 am)

I am an experienced DIYer and am about to tackle the ac on my son's sedan. I read some of the other posts on common taurus headaches. Pep Boys said it would cost $1400 to replace the compressor. I told my son that that was the problem before he had Pep Boys look at it. Originally I was not prepared(time) to help him do the job. When I examined the itemized repair bill and did some internet searching on my own I discovered some things. Some Taurus ac parts cost lots more because of the way they are designed. The orifice tube is normally a 2-3 dollar item for most cars. For the taurus I have to buy the big hose assembly that the orifice tube fits in. It comes preassembled. No options. That baby costs $150. The accumulator is a similar story. The compressor is not a ripoff, though Pep Boys wanted $290 and I can get it for $175. Most shops make money on parts and labor. What I found troubling, and it is a common thing, is that the repair estimate does not show an appreciation for what I call the "while your at it" factor. The labor tabulated is more than what it will normally take. Aside from this, I was surprised that Pep Boys did not recommend a new serpentine belt. I have decided that this and a new water pump are in order(while we are in there!). To do this job I will have both the Haynes and Helm books at hand. Only way to go. If anyone has comments on doing this job, I would appreciate your views. Thanks to all for reading this. I thoroughly enjoy your insights.

#376 of 2996 Synthetic Transmission Oils. by mrdetailer

Jul 16, 2001 (11:44 am)

MobilOne, AMSOil, and Redline all make Automatic Transmission Synthetic Oils. FWIW AMSOil claims that they have the first Universal type.

Messages Page 38 of 300

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