Last post on Dec 11, 2013 at 4:28 PM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
What is this discussion about?
Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon
#2991 of 3014 Follow up to above post
Feb 08, 2012 (7:25 am)
Just wanted to say that I passed on the purchase of this '99 Taurus. After careful thought, I just couldn't take the risk of making a bad situation any worse. We only had so much money to work with here. The guy selling the car wanted $1800 and wouldn't take a penny less even though there were issues I had addressed. Like I posted above, there was oil leaking somewhere and coating the underside of the engine compartment, the airbag light was on, and the high-beam switch(in the turn signal stalk)wouldn't stay on when you needed the high beams on like it's supposed to. If I was in better physical shape and had the money to fix these things myself, who knows, this may have been a good deal. But I would have needed to take the car to my mechanic and deal with the cost of the repairs, however much they would have been. I offered the guy $1500 and he said no, there were others who wanted it. I said fine, sell it to them. I know it's hard to be picky when trying to buy a used car, especially one thats 12 years old, but I need to protect myself as much as I can.
#2992 of 3014 Haynes Repair Manual - WRONG
Feb 14, 2012 (6:51 pm)
#2993 of 3014 Haynes Repair Manual - WRONG
Feb 14, 2012 (6:51 pm)
Haynes repair manual #36075 96-05 Taurus/Sable states 98 Taurus SE is a 4 wire design with BLK/WHT, TAN/LT BLU, LT BLU/RED and RED. What I find in my car (98 Tarus SE) is 3 wires in a 6 wire MAF sensor. My MAF is labeled positions E, A, B, C, D and F. Position "A" is RED, "B" is BLK/WHT and "C" is TAN. All others are empty.
Emailed Haynes and their response seems to be: basically said hire a pro. I thought I had enough smarts to follow along in a book but I seem to be at a cross roads. Would anyone have any ideas for me?
#2994 of 3014 Re: Follow up to above post [shopdog97]
Feb 15, 2012 (7:46 am)
I think that was a wise move. IMO, Oil leaks are are red flags, the fix(es) may not be worth the price of the car. The one sounds like a nickle and dimer for sure. The cost of the repairs are probably why he is selling it.
#2995 of 3014 1994 taurus wagon 3.8L- horn not working
Nov 13, 2012 (6:33 pm)
I checked the fuse and it is okay. What are items could be causing the problem?
#2996 of 3014 1999 Taurus 180,000 mi, lurching
Dec 01, 2012 (8:47 am)
Our mechanic sold us this car, said they had checked it out. Ball bearing and brakes the first two days and it has lurched since we got it. They have replaced the fuel filter, thinking this caused it, didn't help. We checked transmission fluid, it was empty, replaced, this didn't help. Mechanic replaced 2 different sensors he says have to do with the transmission and still doing it. You'll be driving along and it will lurch on you, not like it's going to quit, no sputtering, but like you are in neutral giving it gas. Any ideas?
#2997 of 3014 2002 Duratec misfiring running on 3-4 cylinder after UIM-LIM gasket replace
May 28, 2013 (9:48 am)
#2998 of 3014 2002 Duratec misfiring running on 3-4 cylinder after UIM-LIM gasket replace
May 28, 2013 (9:48 am)
2002 Duratec. Replaced UIM and LIM gaskets and some deteriorated hoses. In doing so had to remove fuel rail and injectors. Pulled spark plugs with only about 15K and regapped them to .054. Used dielectric grease on plug wires at plugs and coil. Snapped all wires back onto connections.
Cleaned throttle body with choke/carb cleaner. Replaced EGR valve gaskets.
Put everything back and checked plug wiring order.
Started car. Stumbled due to no fuel at first and stopped. Recranked and started with foot on the accelerator. Now it ran but sounded very rough. Had to keep throttle way down to keep it running. It got up to 2500 RPM but sounded like it wasn't firing on all cylinders. ran like this for about 20 to 30 seconds and when I took my foot off of the accelerator it quit running.
Has a new fuel filter (6 months ago) and the PCV valve was replaced about a year ago.
Seems like it isn't firing on 2 or more plugs. Know that I snapped all electrical connectors onto the fuel injectors till the clicked and bottomed.
I thought it might just be fuel wasn't getting to the injectors but after 30 seconds the fuel should be pumping to all injectors.
Plugs not firing?
Injectors not firing?
What would you check next?
#2999 of 3014 203 Ford Tarus A/C problem
Jun 09, 2013 (9:11 pm)
My A/C compressor is rattling bad and I am not getting cold. I am wondering if it can just be low on freon. also can the clutch on those be replaced or do you have to replace the whole unit? any help is welcomed. thank you
#3000 of 3014 Re: 203 Ford Tarus A/C problem [gcsod45]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jun 10, 2013 (5:06 am)
Let's talk about that "rattle" first. See if you can disconnect the electrical plug that goes into your AC compressor. This will disengage the AC clutch. If the rattle does away, then you probably have a bad clutch. If the rattle remains, check to see if the compressor is loose on its mounts. If it is tight, you MUST get this fixed before the compressor seizes. Once it seizes, it will send debris throughout your entire AC system, resulting in a very large expensive to either clean, and often replace various parts of the AC system which have become contaminated with metallic debris.
If your AC system needed charging and was depleted of refrigerant, your clutch would not engage.