Last post on Nov 22, 2013 at 9:45 PM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
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Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon
#2980 of 3012 1995 Ford Taurus SHO Stalling at Stop Problem
Oct 30, 2011 (4:21 pm)
I have a 95 Sho, when the weather is warm it runs great no idle problem, but when it gets cold or rainy it stalls when I come to a stop. Now the guy that had it before me said he did a 3.2 Liter swap from an Automatic. Mine is a 5 Speed Manual Trans I took it to the shop and the guy said all the sensors that were unpluged were for the Auto Trans and wanted to charge me my first born to diagnose. I have replaced almost every sensor I can think of. Mass Airflow, Idle Air Control, TPS, Coil Pack and I did plugs and wires....I don't know what this can be. But whatever it is, it seems to be getting worse as the weather changes here in Ohio! Any Ideas?
#2981 of 3012 new fuel pump not working
Nov 01, 2011 (3:43 pm)
Can anyone tell me where the fuel pump relay is located on a 1996 mercury sable?
#2982 of 3012 Re: new fuel pump not working [suzysneed]
Nov 01, 2011 (5:53 pm)
You referring to the relay above the radiator? It's sort of a master relay.
#2983 of 3012 Re: 1994 Mercury Sable v-6 [timara]
Nov 04, 2011 (8:52 am)
that does sound very much like an alternator problem, you're not charging your battery, which should be happening when you drive. most auto shops and stores will do a test on alternator, and the cost varies, re-manufactured is good, or even just used from a wrecking yard.
#2984 of 3012 "service engine" light.
Nov 04, 2011 (8:58 am)
very backyard mechanic here, have a 96 sable, am about to change the heater core as the heater only "steams" the windows, and not with warm air.
however, the engine does not overheat, nor lose oil or water, there is a "gas" odor on the dipstick, and a creamy looking "sludge" on oil cap.
any advice would greatly be appreciated.
#2985 of 3012 Re: General Comments [vppc]vibration [moeoh]
Nov 23, 2011 (10:20 pm)
I have a 2011 Ford Taurus SEL. When driving forward (and downward) out of my driveway onto the two-way street in front of my house, which the slope of the street becomes a slight incline, I notice a vibration either from the driver's side or the passenger side of the car, depending on whether I am turning right or left.
The vibration occurs at slow speeds (15 - 20 MPH) AFTER completing the turn. This does not happen on level surfaces.
I went by my Ford Dealership to take a tech for a "test drive." Failing to reproduce the vibration, while we talked, he said that both front drive axles have two halves that slide back and forth on the "spline" as the front suspension moves up and down. This section of the drive axles have a rubber boot that is sealed from the factory with grease. However, sometimes there may not be enough grease inside the grease boots.
You may want to check to see if there is enough grease inside the boots by merely squeeziing the boots. If the boots easily compress with little or no resistance there may be little of no grease inside the boots to lubricate the sliding halves of the axles.
Should the drive axle boots (transmission end of each axle) need grease, there is an adapter you can connect to a grease gun that is flat on one end. Loosen the clips on the rubber boots. Gently slide the flat end of the adaptor between the rubber boot and the axle.
Next, apply enough grease from a "hand operated" grease gun to fill the rubber grease boot. Best to do this at BOTH ends of the rubber grease boots....
Next, after completing filling the boots with grease, gently remove the adaptor and retighten the boot clips.
NOTE: Use a hand-held, manually pumped grease gun. Using a grease gun under air pressure could put TOO MUCH grease in the boot; thereby, causing a tear or puncture in a boot!
I recommend using "Black Moly Grease" which also contains graphite. This is a grease that can be used for ball joints as well.
Some rear-wheel drive SUV's have drive-shafts which also have a section that slides on a spline as the rear wheels move up and down. Sometimes there is a "grease ZERK" fitting. I also recommend periodically using 'black moly grease' on this fitting as well.
#2986 of 3012 Re: 2003 Mercury Sable RPM issues [kwarmack]
Dec 28, 2011 (10:54 am)
Mines doing the same thing now my radio went out and the air conditioning did yours do that and did u fix ur problem?
#2987 of 3012 Re: tatchy [sango]
Jan 09, 2012 (5:09 am)
Go ahead and buy a Taurus. Don't let all the negative press deter you. I bought my wife a 1998 Taurus with 35,000 miles on it in 1999 and it was a dependable car. We changed the regular stuff like tires and wiper blades and regular oil changes and never had any problems. With 135,000 miles on it we traded it in to buy a 2003 Taurus with 30,000 miles on it. This Taurus is a good car too. Look at your Car Fax when buying a used car. Make sure the previous owner has been doing all the service the car has needed on time. Also if the car has showed signs of being a piece of junk needing lots of work, walk away and dont buy it. I think that buying a used car with 30,000 miles on it gave me a chance to see what kind of car I would be buying.
#2988 of 3012 Re: tatchy [rkey2000]
Jan 09, 2012 (5:56 am)
The nice things about buying used cars are:
1) like stated above, the lemon factor is obvisous.
2) hopefully, you can pay cash for it and not finance the steep depreciation on a new one.
3) Lower taxes
4) usually lower insurance.
5) at 35-50k miles most of the maintenance has already been done, check the records to be sure.
6) after a few years the relability has been established and the usual prbolmes are identified and you can determine if you want those headaches or not.
I have moved to the school of thought of older cars than newer cars because of these factors. There are just some cars out there is worth replacing a tranny/motor for another 100+k miles that is cheaper than getting a newer car with payments. Just my warped 2 cents.
#2989 of 3012 Re: Emissions Trouble [mlmyers]
Jan 27, 2012 (6:26 pm)
dear mlmyers not sure when you posted this message and if its still an issue for you but i can tell you a improperly functioning coolant temp sensor can cause emission problems even codes as when i car starts it relies on certain things to tell it how much fuel air mix if the temp sensor is telling the car its cold when its not it will dump excessive fuel to even itself out