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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

2996 messages,  Last post on Dec 01, 2012 at 9:47 AM

You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Forum.

What is this discussion about? Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon

Messages Page 299 of 300

#2976 of 2996 Is the A/C compressor going to come off?? by mechphisto

Sep 17, 2011 (4:53 pm)

#2977 of 2996 Is the A/C compressor going to come off?? by mechphisto

Sep 17, 2011 (4:53 pm)

I've a 2005 Mercury Sable.
We discovered when the heater and fan is running, there was a rattle and smoke!
We discovered that one of the three caps(?) on the A/C compressor had come loose, and that's where the smoking was coming from. It finally came off, and the inside is melted.
Then, after that one came off, a 2nd one popped right off!
 
What's happening? Why in the world would 2 of these caps come off on their own like that? And what caused them to melt inside? Is there some moving part they're covering?
 
Background:
This started last night after we took a sharp curve to the left too fast. All of a sudden that's when the noise and smell started. Did that cause it to shift? Is it migrating off it's bolts? Is it about to come loose and crash around?
 
Additional note:
I have no idea if this is related, if it's bad or nothing... I may be paranoid, but it seems to me that the spinning pulley part on the compressor is wobbling just a teeny bit against the pink bushing or gasket (?) that's between the pulley and the three capped bolts. However, those three bolt ends and the plate at the end don't appear to move at all.
 
Anyway, thanks for any suggestions or advice!

#2978 of 2996 Possible blown head gasket 2001 Taurus 3.0 OHV by tedwards

Oct 05, 2011 (12:41 pm)

I have coolant boiling in reservoir and overflowing. I have replaced the thermostat water pump and flushed the radiator. After searching, all things are pointing to a head gasket issue. My question is, with 212,000 miles, should I try a head gasket sealer( and which one) or should I shell out the $ to get it repaired correctly. My plan is to keep the car at least 3 more years.

#2979 of 2996 Re: Possible blown head gasket 2001 Taurus 3.0 OHV [tedwards] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Oct 05, 2011 (6:19 pm)

Replying to: tedwards (Oct 05, 2011 12:41 pm)
You can test for a head gasket, you don't have to guess. Have someone (or you) pressurize the cooling system, then pull the spark plugs one by one and look for coolant on them. If nothing there, then you can test the coolant in the radiator chemically, for the presence of combustion gases, because your exhaust gases are boiling water for you.
 
A sealer is just an exercise in denial. It won't last and probably not even work at all, if the head gasket is actually damaged.

#2980 of 2996 1995 Ford Taurus SHO Stalling at Stop Problem by 95fordshoguy

Oct 30, 2011 (5:21 pm)

I have a 95 Sho, when the weather is warm it runs great no idle problem, but when it gets cold or rainy it stalls when I come to a stop. Now the guy that had it before me said he did a 3.2 Liter swap from an Automatic. Mine is a 5 Speed Manual Trans I took it to the shop and the guy said all the sensors that were unpluged were for the Auto Trans and wanted to charge me my first born to diagnose. I have replaced almost every sensor I can think of. Mass Airflow, Idle Air Control, TPS, Coil Pack and I did plugs and wires....I don't know what this can be. But whatever it is, it seems to be getting worse as the weather changes here in Ohio! Any Ideas?

#2981 of 2996 new fuel pump not working by suzysneed

Nov 01, 2011 (4:43 pm)

Can anyone tell me where the fuel pump relay is located on a 1996 mercury sable?

#2982 of 2996 Re: new fuel pump not working [suzysneed] by silver3b

Nov 01, 2011 (6:53 pm)

Replying to: suzysneed (Nov 01, 2011 4:43 pm)
You referring to the relay above the radiator? It's sort of a master relay.

#2983 of 2996 Re: 1994 Mercury Sable v-6 [timara] by masterpeele

Nov 04, 2011 (9:52 am)

Replying to: timara (Dec 20, 2005 8:45 am)
that does sound very much like an alternator problem, you're not charging your battery, which should be happening when you drive. most auto shops and stores will do a test on alternator, and the cost varies, re-manufactured is good, or even just used from a wrecking yard.

#2984 of 2996 "service engine" light. by masterpeele

Nov 04, 2011 (9:58 am)

very backyard mechanic here, have a 96 sable, am about to change the heater core as the heater only "steams" the windows, and not with warm air.
 
however, the engine does not overheat, nor lose oil or water, there is a "gas" odor on the dipstick, and a creamy looking "sludge" on oil cap.
 
any advice would greatly be appreciated.

#2985 of 2996 Re: General Comments [vppc]vibration [moeoh] by wings8823

Nov 23, 2011 (11:20 pm)

Replying to: moeoh (Jan 03, 2007 2:14 pm)
I have a 2011 Ford Taurus SEL. When driving forward (and downward) out of my driveway onto the two-way street in front of my house, which the slope of the street becomes a slight incline, I notice a vibration either from the driver's side or the passenger side of the car, depending on whether I am turning right or left.
 
The vibration occurs at slow speeds (15 - 20 MPH) AFTER completing the turn. This does not happen on level surfaces.
 
I went by my Ford Dealership to take a tech for a "test drive." Failing to reproduce the vibration, while we talked, he said that both front drive axles have two halves that slide back and forth on the "spline" as the front suspension moves up and down. This section of the drive axles have a rubber boot that is sealed from the factory with grease. However, sometimes there may not be enough grease inside the grease boots.
 
You may want to check to see if there is enough grease inside the boots by merely squeeziing the boots. If the boots easily compress with little or no resistance there may be little of no grease inside the boots to lubricate the sliding halves of the axles.
 
Should the drive axle boots (transmission end of each axle) need grease, there is an adapter you can connect to a grease gun that is flat on one end. Loosen the clips on the rubber boots. Gently slide the flat end of the adaptor between the rubber boot and the axle.
 
Next, apply enough grease from a "hand operated" grease gun to fill the rubber grease boot. Best to do this at BOTH ends of the rubber grease boots....
 
Next, after completing filling the boots with grease, gently remove the adaptor and retighten the boot clips.
 
NOTE: Use a hand-held, manually pumped grease gun. Using a grease gun under air pressure could put TOO MUCH grease in the boot; thereby, causing a tear or puncture in a boot!
 
I recommend using "Black Moly Grease" which also contains graphite. This is a grease that can be used for ball joints as well.
 
Some rear-wheel drive SUV's have drive-shafts which also have a section that slides on a spline as the rear wheels move up and down. Sometimes there is a "grease ZERK" fitting. I also recommend periodically using 'black moly grease' on this fitting as well.

Messages Page 299 of 300

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