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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

2935 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 7:49 AM
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Replying to: rjkardo (Jan 07, 2009 10:14 am) http://greensboring.com/viewtopic.php?f=23&t=7124
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Replying to: tnmajor (Jan 07, 2009 3:38 pm) Thanks!! Rod |
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Daughter has had intermittant problems with driver door latching, but after sometimes a 1/2 hour of slamming it would latch.As of last night it still has not latched, even sprayed with wd-40.Any suggestions ?
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Does anyone have knowledge on the electrical connections on a 98 Taurus auto transmission. The car is a 3.0 DOHC column shift AX4N trans. The trans died, and another trans has been located. The salvage yard says the "electrical connector" on their trans is broken. Is there more then one connector on the trans, if not, can the connector be easily swapped from the dead trans to the replacement trans without opening them up? Does anyone also know of any on-line exploded diagrams or other views of this connector. Both the dead car and replacement trans are not local for me to visually inspect myself, so I'm trying to get an answer here. Thanks for any information you can provide. Mrbill |
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Replying to: tpiper (Jan 09, 2009 7:26 am) |
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I have had my drivers door latch freeze up for a couple of years now on my 98 Ford Taurus but this year my front pass. side door latch is freezing also. The door opens fine but when I shut the door it doesn't latch. If I hold a hair dryer to the latch it unfreezes in a min. or so then the door shuts fine. Any ideas on what to do? I have tryed spraying the latch, handle and lock but nothing seems to work. Thanks.
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Replying to: johnwny (Jan 15, 2009 12:51 pm) |
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| I have a 1999 Ford Taurus Wagon. To avoid a wreck I put the car into reverse from drive and accelerated hard. The tires squeaked and all of the sudden the car made a grinding noise. When I put it up it into any other gear it made the same noise. I can only put it in park or neutral. When I jacked it up onto stands and put it in drive it makes the grinding noise only when my foot is on the brake. When I release the brake the wheels spin. I was thinking the problem could be a broken halfshaft either on the left or right side, but I am not sure. If you are experienced and have any knowledge on this please post back. | |
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Here is the problem, any help is appreciated. This is a 3.0 U-code with 182K miles on it. Car stalled and would crank but not start. Sat for an hour and started. Replaced plugs and it started and ran fine for a day. Next day same problem. Checked Ignition wires, they were bad so replaced them along with PCV and hose, cleaned MAF and AIC and checked vacuum lines and intake for leaks and found none. Same problem and it became more frequent to the point where it would only crank, sputter and not start. Checked fuel pressure and had none, replaced filter still no pressure replaced fuel pump. Now have pressure and car starts and idles a little rough and when I put it in gear it stalls but will start up again no problem until I put it in gear then stalls again. While idling I get a lot of black carbon on the garage floor and when I apply any electrical strain like rear defrost, turn signals etc the rpms reduce from about 700 to 400. Turn off the strain and the idle returns to 700 but fluctuates up and down. Only code that comes up, and that was just today after two weeks of above tinkering was P0172 Lean bank 1. This could be due to all the carbon building. Any help is appreciated.
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Replying to: 2979 (Feb 15, 2009 8:26 am) |
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