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Sedans Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair
2935 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 7:49 AM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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I have an 03 Taurus SES with the heated outside mirror option. They are supposed to heat up when the rear window defogger is turned on, they don't. I suspect Ford put in a relay to send power to the mirrors. If so, where is the relay and which one is it? Thanks. Danford1 |
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Hi, I have a minor oil leak on my 96 DOHC Taurus. It looks to be coming from the oil pan gasket and extender gasket right above it. Does any one know how difficult it would be for a DIY to replace these gaskets? Does the engine have to be moved off it's mounts? It looks like the exhaust needs to be moved. Any thoughts from someone who's done the job would be appreciated. Thanks, Tim
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Have 99 Sable LS. The car rides like a tank in the front end. Feels like it has real stiff springs in the front. Also when I hit bumps in the road the steering wheel jerks to that side. I took the car to a local Midas and they told me the only thing wrong with it was the sway bar links. Replaced those and new tires on the front. It's not as bad but still rides really stiff and still jerks the wheel but not as bad. It seems to be worse in the rain. Seems to hydroplane pretty bad. Is this how these cars ride? I like the car but something just doesn't seem right to me. Scott |
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Okay, so I've changed my front pads on most of my cars... but this is my first time changing the rear brake pads on my 1998 Sable. After much trial and error I discovered that caliper is one of the ones that you have to twist back into place, so I ran up and got myself a caliper reset tool from Auto Zone (because that stupid cube doesn't work). Anyway, the tool fits perfect. The problem is, I can't get it to turn back into place. So either, I'm a lot weaker than I think, or I'm doing something wrong. Also, I'll note that the inside brake pad was worn completely down to the metal (yes I'm replacing the rotors as well), BUT the outside pad was almost brand new.... Thoughts, I could use some help before I lose my mind  Thanks! 
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Hi, I live in michigan and a couple of weeks ago it was snowy and slick and a car in front of me got into an accident and I had to go over a curb to avoid involving myself in the accident. This blew out my right front tire but other than that seems to have done no obvious damage. The only oddities are that ever since then the car has reported the outside temperature as WAY off. It almost always says it is between 100 and 105 degrees outside (and i assure you it is not!). I am not sure where the sensor is for this but I thought the first thing might be to just see if something is lodged around it or ... something. Can anyone tell me where this is? If the sensor is bad is it a user replaceable item or would it have to go to the dealership or elsewhere. Also, I dont know if this is related but the interior thermostat seems to be screwy. When I get in the car if i have the desired temperature set to 85, once the car warms up the heat will come on full blast and once the temperature is comfortable I will turn it down to around 72 and the fan speed will go down as you would expect it to to maintain that temp. However after a few minutes (10-15) it will start to get cold and I will bump it up to 80 and the fan will kick up a bit and warm it up and keep it comfortable for another few minutes. Again a few minutes later it will start to get cool and I will bump it up to 85 and it will make it comfortable again for a while. Then it will get slightly cool again and the only other option is 90 at which the heat basically stays on full bore until you turn it back down. On long trips I have to bump it between 85 and 90 to warm it up when it gets cool. Could this at all be related to the outside temperature sensor and the car is just completely confused about whats going on!? Thanks! |
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Replying to: steach91 (Dec 17, 2008 3:16 pm) |
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I have been studying what to do about my '96 Taurus 3.0 OHV concerning it not starting. I have taken it to a 'not so hot' mechanic here and they were total idiots about what is wrong. The engine was replaced with a brand new one in 2001. Not the wireing. It now has approx. 35,000 miles on it. It quit running, at 65mph, like it was running out of gas (full tank). I have checked for gasoline pressure at the injector bank, LOTS of pressure. Didn't check injectors themselves but when I pulled every sp. plug to check for spark (all had spark), they were wet and smelled of gasoline. So I assume (?) they were getting gas. The plugs (Rapid Fire) all looked very normal with no extraordinary buildup with only normal wear etc. 8000 miles on this set. The mechanic did a compression check without and then with oil in the cyls. Same readings 2  30, 245, 160 and 175. He did nothing else except put new spark plugs in. He said the engine was shot!! Frankly, I just don't believe this as there could be too many other things that could give low compressions. This engine has run and started perfectly (excepting a bad VSS which I replaced) since I got it in 2002. I would like to do more tests on it when I get it home, One being a Leakdown test. Only problem is I have never done one. Can anyone explain how this is done and can I do it or do I have to take it to another shop? Should I rule out a bad or jumped timing chain? What other tests should I do concerning this low compression? Since it won't start, all the tests so far have had to be done only while cranking the engine with the starter. If you can, please HELP! Thanks
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Replying to: taurusidiot (Jan 01, 2009 10:35 am) I need to add one small piece of info. The OBDII data link has never worked so I can't get any info this way. Have to do it all the old fashioned way. Wish there were a way to get this working. Could save a lot of work??? Thanks |
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I have a 99 ford taurus 3.0L V6. The idler pulley is bad. The parts stores i have been to gave me the wrong pulley. I took it back and they told me that it's the pulley that goes on my car. The one that came off my car is plastic and the ones I get from the parts stores is medal and too big, not by much. When I try to put it on it rubs against the tensioner pulley housing. Do I have to move the tensioner pulley back/foword to get the idler pulley to fit? I sure hope someone can tell something.
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Replying to: lilhalo2003 (Jan 01, 2009 10:41 pm) We checked several parts places in advance, and they seem to have the same setup as on her car. I am just concerned that I am going to change the right part. Something gave out on her car, and it certainly seems to be one of the devices on the serpentine belt. How do I tell for sure that it is the idler pulley? Once I do, are there directions on the web for changing it out? Thanks, Rod
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