Last post on Dec 01, 2012 at 9:47 AM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
What is this discussion about?
Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon
#2439 of 2996 Re: 2000 Taurus --Idle issues [kimanij]
Aug 16, 2006 (11:14 am)
Last August my engine light came on. Went to my regular mechanic and he looked up my car/engine and told me to get the EGR valve or sensor (can't remember now) replaced under the extended warrenty. I looked in my files and had the letter that I got and because it was a month out of warrenty the Ford dealer gave me some static but I won out after all.
I had no change in the engine - just the light coming on. The car has run great for six years until about 2 1/2 months ago when I had hesitation and poor excelleration - plus the engine light coming on again.
After about 15 visits to my regular mechanic, he put a new coil in the #5 cylinder last night. Two months ago it was the #3 cylinder that needed the coil but while he had all of the hardware off he suggested that he do all of the plugs. This went on (light on and "missing") since mid-June. I am hoping that the light is still off when I drive home from work tonight.
I am stunned that with all of this new technology that the scanner does not do a much better job of defining what exactly, is wrong with a car. It comes up "cylinder #5". Well, that could be the spark plug, coil, or the rubber boot. In order to not rack up a high bill he replaced one item at a time starting with the cheapest item - spark plug. This is why I had to make so many visits after work.
#2440 of 2996 Re: 97 Ford Taurus 3.0 Standard V6 a/c "singing" noise [stampy_x7]
Aug 16, 2006 (3:33 pm)
You mentioned that the A/C is cold. Is this correct? If it's not chances are you have a leak and with a leak you leak lubricant as well as freon. If it is cold have you recently had it recharged? If so they should have put in some lubricant then. If A/C is cold chances are the a/c pulley or clutch is showing its' age!
#2441 of 2996 2005 Ford Taurus SEL Key Code
Aug 17, 2006 (2:59 pm)
I have been trying for months to find out the key code number for my Taurus. In the handbook, it says the key code is on the computer module. I have no idea where the computer module is. Can someone please help me? Thanks
Aug 17, 2006 (5:51 pm)
I bought a 1999 Sable about three months ago (24 valve engine, bought at 63,000 miles). The first day I was driving my commute, which is about 60 miles each way, I hit a stone on the highway while going 65 MPH. The stone was about 5"x4"x7", a bit of pavement heave. One of those things you see, but can't react, sort of like a deer....
It hit the frame beside the left wheel, and dinged the frame there, but left no marks past that point. Immediately after, there was a vibration that has since happened every day but only around 65 MPH. Since this happened, I replaced the tires which were worn out, balance/aligned the wheels, replaced a worn ball joint on the left side which was diagnosed when the previous owner had the car, replaced all brake pads/shoes and turned all discs/drums. These things all needed doing anyway.
The wheel bearings seem OK, no play in there. There does seem to be some very slight play in the driveshaft, but both right and left feel the same and the noise is definately coming from the left side. It sounds a lot like blowing across the top of a beer bottle that's about empty. There is no wiggle of the steering wheel, no feedback from bad handling or anything other than the noise. It's not related to engine RPM; I have tried gunning it. It starts around 60, and goes away around 70.
At first I thought it was the frame ding making wind noise, so I tried duct-taping a few things but no success.
Still the noise happens, right at 65. Any ideas?
#2443 of 2996 Re: lower ball joints 98 ford taurus [jrolf]
Aug 18, 2006 (3:56 am)
I have the Haynes manual; it's not in there.... So when I went to replace mine it was all by sight and feel. Anyway it worked. You'll need a press kit, I hate it when they say "bash it out, then smash the new one in". So, simple things skipped....
Remove the wheel bearing nut, it's about 30mm (you should need a breaker bar). Jack up that side of the car, support on the frame rail where the driveshaft goes through it. Remove wheel. Remove brake pads, caliper, caliper support, disc. Loosen and remove nut on bottom of ball joint. Remove the lower part of the plastic support from the suspension. Remove the end of the steering tie-rod from the steering knuckle (you'll probably need to press it out).
Loosen the nuts/bolts on the lower control arm where it is attached to the frame; if you don't it's really hard to remove the other end from the balljoint stud (my trick to you).... Using a press, push the balljoint out from the control arm, so now it's just held in by being pressed into the steering knuckle.
Get a steel pipe nipple about 2.5" long (actually get several, in 0.5" increments in this area) and 3/4" diameter, thread a cap onto that. Put that over the balljoint so it rests agains the top part of the balljoint that is pressed into the steering knuckle. Now use a press to get it out.
Probably it's necessary to remove the steering knuckle, but at this point it is just by loosening the pinch bolt on the strut. This makes it easier to press in the new balljoint.
For assembly, it's reverse of removal. One trick though. When tightening the nut at the bottom of the balljoint, put the car's weight on the control arm so the friction between the tapered surfaces will stop the balljoint from spinning.
#2444 of 2996 Re: Cranks but will not start if left sitting a while [nomoreford2]
Aug 18, 2006 (8:43 am)
I have had recently a similar intermittent problem with my
Taurus 2000 DOHC 24 V. The problem showed up when the car
was sitting more then 8-12 hours. Namely :
the engine started at very low RPMs - about 300 RPM. When I tried to accelerate it as usually - it stalled. When I accelerated it gently and was driving for some time - everything suddenly returned to the norm - the idle RPMs were about 800 RPMs. Sometimes the engine started but had 5-10 secs hesitation at low RPMs. Sometimes it stalled right after start... and I had to re-start it a several times
Three mechaincs ( including a Ford dealer ) failed to locate the problem ( I wasted a lot of money for replacing of sensors that were not faulty... )
Finally Bob Thibodeau Ford Dealer repair team found the real cause:
it was I.A.C. valve located in air bypass controlling idle speed. It was contaminated by carbon and oil deposits and was sticking intermittently choking the engine.... If I were a mechanic - it would be the first thing I checked ... After replacing of the valve - the problem seems to go away ( so far ( )
Hope it will help to you...
#2445 of 2996 Re: Cranks but will not start if left sitting a while [dsakharov]
Aug 20, 2006 (12:12 pm)
I changed the spark plugs and the problem went away. I also sprayed some air intake cleaner in the IAC valve. On both areas my mechanic said were fine, but i guess he was wrong.
#2446 of 2996 Ford Transmission Interchangeability
Aug 21, 2006 (12:05 pm)
Trans in my 95 Taurus is about to let go. 95 was the last year for this body style. Can I swap in a trans from a 96? Were there changes that affected the powertrain?
#2447 of 2996 Re: 96 taurus radio problem [laryba]
Aug 22, 2006 (1:22 pm)
Sorry about the late reply. No, I never got an answer. I have not found the problem yet. Everyone I ask, says check the fuses. My fuses are good, but no clock or music. If you find the problem please let me know. Thanks jre
#2448 of 2996 Re: Rear brakes dragging [wpanic]
Aug 26, 2006 (5:39 am)
i know it was a year ago but i am having the same problem would like to know if you resolved the issue please email me thanks jgazeleygrasslandcorp.com