Last post on Dec 01, 2012 at 9:47 AM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
What is this discussion about?
Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon
#244 of 2996 limerick
Oct 25, 2000 (5:00 am)
We once had a car with a sore ass
The repair bills really did floor us
We have since learned
If you donít want to get burned
Stay away from Ford and from Taurus
Problems included CV joints, brake rotors, engine mounts, front axles, tie rods, speedometer cable, transmission, head gasket and more that I donít care to remember. Spent over $6000 Canadian in repairs over the 2 Ĺ years that this car owned us. The car was two years old when we bought it for $10000 Canadian. Ended up giving it away. Head gasket blew while I was having it looked at for trade in value on a Mazda. It saved the best for last Ė nice big smoke show right there at the Mazda dealership. I brought my concerns to the attention of Ford, whose only proposed fix was to sell me another Ford Ė not!. I will never ever buy another Ford. You couldnít give me one if it came with cash in the glove box. I wonít take it. The 1995 Taurus Wagon was the junkiest car I ever owned. I am still paying off both the repair bills and the money I borrowed to buy it, and thinking about it and writing about it makes me feel ill. Keep away!
#245 of 2996 Engine Light, Transmission
Oct 26, 2000 (5:00 am)
I've got a 92 Taurus with 95,000 miles, and it has not been too bad of a car. Considering I paid only $8,500 for it with 33,000 miles (How much would a comparable 4 year old Accord with 33,000 miles would have cost?), it has been cheap to keep as well, other than an expensive air conditioner compressor repair. The factory tires went 82,000 miles, and only one set of brake pads so far. Have replaced rear struts and water pump as well, all at around 75-80k miles. Not perfect, but parts are cheap, and I don't think it seems that unreasonable.
Occasionally, either after driving for a few hours, the check engine light will come on, and after a minute or two, go off, not to come back on. I am thinking to Oxygen sensor may transmit a problem. If the car runs fine, and your mechanic doesn't see a problem, I would not worry about it. Most likely it is just an emissions issue. I have been thinking about replacing the Oxygen sensor, as my mileage has dropped lately from around 24 mpg to about 22 mpg.
I have never had to do any transmission work, or engine repairs. One reason may be I flush both the transmission and coolant system every 30,000 miles.
All I can say is in my family's experiences with an 89, 92, & 93 Taurus, all have been fairly cheap to own. The 3.0 engine has a better reputation, but if I can get to 120,000 miles, I will be satisfied, as that would work out to paying $8,500 and getting 85,000 miles out of it.
#246 of 2996 Heater core 87 Taurus wagon
Nov 08, 2000 (3:06 am)
I am changing the heater core in this beast on the weekend and would very much appreciate any help as my service manual is pretty vauge.
I understand its a big undertaking but it has to be done. This car has A/C but it hasn't worked in a few years and I have no intentions of having it repaired so thats not a big concern.
Does any one know if I need any special tools.
I was told that the steering column had to be removed, is this true? (Hope not!!)
Anyone one have any tips?
I would be greatful for any help.
#247 of 2996 re: engine light , transmission
Nov 08, 2000 (7:04 am)
it could be caused by a lazy o2 sensor. They're not too expensive, and easy to change. They switch from rich to lean and rich to lean at about 80 to 100 milliseconds. At around 200 and above, they are considered "lazy." The mpg will increase because it will get the engine closer to the 14.7 to 1 air/fuel ratio.
You are lucky with those trannys. The "axods" trans have a rear sun/planet that gets starved for fluid, so they are not good cars to take on long trips. I am not saying that because I am not a Ford fan. They have a poor design (the newer ones are a little better) and the fluid gets hot and cannot properly lube the sun and planets on the rear of the tranny. You can tell if you need the radiator fluid changed. Take a multimeter and ground the neg lead. Take the pos lead and stick it into the antifreeze. If it's higher than .3 volts, time to thange it. Usually about every year or so is a good idea to keep the components properly lubed.
#248 of 2996 re: heater core
Nov 08, 2000 (7:15 am)
Sometimes the books say to practically remove the dash to get out the heater core. Maybe that's where the steering column comes in. I have never taken out a steering column to change a heater core. If I remember correctly you don't need any special tools for that job. It probably will leak so be prepared for some fluid loss. Be careful of two things, watch exactly on how you disconnect your heater selector lines. Second thing, under the hood. The heater core lines are WAFER THIN. On reconnection of the lines, put a little vaseline on the hoses to slide back on. Leave the heater exchanger on hot when adding radiator fluid and running the vehicle. Heater cores aren't usually difficult, just time consuming.
#249 of 2996 Thanks Copytech
Nov 10, 2000 (3:23 am)
Thanks for the reply. Good tips
#250 of 2996 heater core and dash removal
Nov 10, 2000 (6:12 pm)
I had to remove the dash on my '91 sable sedan (BTW, 3.8L, 173k and NO HG, cooling, out-of-the-ordinary problems) to replace a blend door controller for the auto climate control. The controller mounted on the core. You do have to drop the steering column, but if I remember right, it is 4 nuts. I didn't have to remove the dash completly, thankfully, but I believe you would to remove the core. It took me most of the weekend to do this. It is a HUGE job, but with average mechanical skills and regular hand tools, you should be able to do this.
#251 of 2996 Taurus heater core
Nov 10, 2000 (8:18 pm)
Its a big job. You said your AC doesn't work and if your not going to fix it you should probably just cut the pipe where it goes into the evaporator (through the firewall). I'm assuming that there's no freon charge left in the system. If there is then it has to be evacuated before cutting. If you want to reconnect the line to the evaporator you will need the special tool to release the spring clamp on the line. BTW, Ford recommends replacing the receiver/dryer anytime it is removed for service, but here again if your not going to recharge and use the AC it doesn't matter.
If memory serves me you will need to remove the dash and remove the entire climate housing to get the core out. I do remember having to unbolt and swing the column out of the way, but it wasn't hard to do that part. As I remember it was a difficult and time consuming job.
Let us know how it went.
#252 of 2996 Thanks for the help guys
Nov 11, 2000 (5:14 am)
Hey I appreciate all the response...Thanks
I think I will take your advice Burdawg and
cut the A/C pipes. I'm not looking forward to this
but its just getting to be a little to foggy in the car. I will let you know how it goes.
#253 of 2996 Chicken (Heater core)
Nov 12, 2000 (4:57 pm)
Well I started the job and when I realized what I was getting into I chickend out.
Just to much work to put into such an old car.
Decided its time to cut my losses on this beater.
Think I will look around for a older Toyota, at
least that should be a little more reliable.
Thanks again for your tips..hope i didn't disappoint anyone.