Last post on Nov 22, 2013 at 9:45 PM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
What is this discussion about?
Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon
#2186 of 3012 Check Engine Light - PO442
Jan 09, 2006 (9:47 pm)
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES w/95,400 miles with the Vulcan engine. My check engine light come on and I had Advanced Auto Parts read the code - PO442 which means "EVAP Emissions Control System Leak (Small)".
Seven weeks earlier the light came on, only it was a large leak code and I disconnected the battery to turn the check engine light off.
What could it be? I've already tried the gas cap. The cars runs just the same, which is great!
#2188 of 3012 Re: Emissions Trouble [mlmyers]
Jan 10, 2006 (5:05 am)
I ran across an article indicating that perhaps the coolant sensor is not responding correctly. Has anyone replaced this sensor with success in correcting their emissions problems?
#2189 of 3012 Re: 2000 Taurus --Idle issues [badgerfan]
Jan 10, 2006 (6:56 am)
I, too, have a 2000 SEL and in August the check engine light came on. Drove immediately to my mechanic and he ran the codes and told me to get it done free at my dealer (very honest man). Went to dealer and, with exactly 30,000 on the odometer, got the sensor done free.
The letter I got (went to my file and retrieved it) said that it extended the warrenty two more years. I was about a month past the date on the extension but whined and complained loudly about Ford's reputation going South and "good will" of the dealer for wanting me to buy another Ford from them (my 2nd purchase from them). The advisor went to the service manager and agreed to give it to me. Grovelling sometimes works.
I still love the car even with all of the recalls on top of recalls. It is a nuisance to keep dropping it off and not having a car but I guess those things happen. I bookmark a lot of all of your comments just in case I have issues with that problem. I am the original owner and only put 5000+ miles on a year. Drive only 6 miles a day and very little on weekends.
#2190 of 3012 Re: paint repair?? [seige553]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Jan 10, 2006 (9:46 am)
Sometimes you can find people who come to your location and air brush out small defects in bumpers or blend in paint chips....auto dealers use these guys all the time...a complete repaint of the bumper to the point where you'd be proud to look at it, would be $300 easy.
#2191 of 3012 Re: 1998 Taurus door/overhead & I have a question on the location of the
Jan 11, 2006 (7:09 am)
I had the same problem on my '96 and replaced the internal switch.
Looks like a pc. of junk and it was stuck/broken.
Does anyone know where the window washer sprayer motor/pump is located?
#2192 of 3012 Re: 2000 Taurus --Idle issues [ohio7]
Jan 11, 2006 (8:55 am)
Recalls on top of recalls? I only have had three recalls on my 2000 SES Duratech:
Brake light switch
Protection covers on front springs (front springs and DPFE Sensor are under Ford issued extended warranty)
Other warranty repairs I have had are:
Wiper notor (yes, the recall replacement one failed under warranty)
Coolant overflow tank/sensor assembly replaced.
All these warranty/recalls were minor and fixed quickly and efficiently. Perfect? No, but close enough so I am happy.
No other warranty or nonwarranty failure issues to date.
Routine oil changes, one transmission flush, new tires last fall, new front brakes last fall, two alignments, a couple of flat repairs, one new battery a couple years ago. That is about it to date. A very good car and solid as it was new.
#2193 of 3012 Re: blower motor [fixitford]
Jan 11, 2006 (6:58 pm)
I recently replaced the resistor and the blower motor on my 2002 Mercury Sable. I know very little about auto mechanics but was able to do it with no problem. In a phone call wherein I described the problem, the dealer said it would take $360 to replace a switch. The problem was that the fan didn't always come on, and if it did come on, it had only two speeds - off or high.
For safety, I completed all of these activities with the ground wire to the battery disconnected. To remove the radio and test the knob for the fan, I had to buy DIN tools to remove the radio ($4 at an auto parts store, including instructions). I bought a 9 volt transistor battery, some wires, alligator clamps, and a test light. (Auto parts store and Radio Shack, total about $10). I totally disconnected the knob and tested to see how it directed the current in each position. The prong of the knob that connected to the orange wire "fed" each of the black, yellow and green wires in turn, as I switched from high to lower to lower. In the lowest position, none of the prongs were connected to any other.
It turned out that this is exactly what the knob was supposed to do, so the dealer would have been wrong if he replaced the knob (for $360).
Next, I followed the wires from the knob down to below the glove box (on the passenger side) to where they connected to the resistor. To get to the resistor, I had to remove a large plastic panel that was below the glove box, above the area for the passenger's feet. It pulled away from below the dashboard easily (and later re-attached easily, via a couple of plastic prongs).
From below, the resistor is a blue rectangle, two and a half inches by one and a half inches, with four wires attached via a single connector. I disconnected the connector to the resistor and used my test light, wires and 9 volt transistor battery to determine that the yellow, green and orange wires from the knob in the radio enter into the resistor. I don't know where the black one went. The resistor has its own black wire. I suppose this all makes sense to an electrician, but not to me. But as they say in college, it is all intuitively obvious and correct.
I removed the resistor from the vehicle with a socket wrench. It was attached by two hex bolts. In the resistor there is a small heat sensitive circuit/switch that was always closed. I determined that it was always closed by using my wires, alligator clamps, small battery, and test light to try to send a current through it. I determined that it was a heat sensitive switch because the replacement resistor was printed with 128 degrees C. I found a replacement for the resistor on the web at about $12 plus shipping. Not wanting to wait for shipment, I went to the dealer and got one for about $20. When I hooked it up, I found the the knob now controlled the fan speed, like it should. There were four speeds from slow to fast. There was no "off" speed - One of the other controls in the system is used to turn the entire system off, including the fan.
However, I found that the fan sometimes did not come on at all. On some mornings, I found that the fan would have a sluggish start, and througout the day it was unpredictable as to whether it would start at all after it was turned off. I again disconnected the negative wire to the car battery. There are pictures of the replacement fan (blower motor) on the internet, so I looked at those to determine what I would be looking for in the car. The fan/blower motor is located next to the resistor, nearer to the passenger door. It is important to note that none of the repairs required removal of the dash board at all.
The blower motor is attached to the car by three bolts the same size as the two connecting the resistor. I removed the 3 and then the entire housing, motor and squirrel cage fell out easily in one piece. The dealer wanted about $170 for a replacement motor. And probably would have wanted a few hundred more for the labor to install it. At an auto parts store, I found a replacement motor and housing by Four Seasons for $40. I had to remove the squirrel cage from the original motor and put it on the replacement. The people in the auto parts store helped - and told me it is called a squirrel cage. To keep the squirrel cage locked on the motor's axle, I got a replacement clamp in Home Depot for $1, made exactly the right size. I assume the axle is a standard size as the old and new clamps were exactly the same diameter. I suppose I could have re-used the old clamp, but I bent it a little when I removed it to remove the squirrel cage. I reattached the new housing/motor to the car, using the 3 bolts and a couple of guiding posts that remained in the car. I reconnected the wiring harness to the motor and re-attached the plastic panel.
The entire system now works fine.
The original motor/housing has a "gutter" designed to deliver air to the motor to keep it cool. Unfortunately, as water appears in the system from time to time, whether from the weather or from air conditioning condensation, the "gutter" delivers water to the motor instead of the intended air. You can see evidence of the water as stains on the inside of the housing and as rust on the metal motor. The Four Seasons motor/housing design is superior compared to the original. It has separate holes on the inside and outside of the motor to deliver the cooling air. Plus it has a separate hole, nowhere near the motor, for allowing any unwanted moisture to exit the system. The only drawback in this superior design is that you will hear a little more of the motor noise due to the fact that some of the holes open into the passenger compartment. On the original motor/housing the motor was completely sealed away from the passenger compartment via the plastic housing. The added noise is, I think, a small price to pay for a motor that will work. The noise is audible only at the two slow fan speeds, as the air drowns out the noise at higher speeds. And with the CD playing and road noise, it is not much of a factor at all.
Happy Motoring to you all. And keep your repairs safe by always disconnecting the car's battery!
#2194 of 3012 Re: 1998 Taurus door/overhead light switch [alcan]
Jan 12, 2006 (5:59 am)
Thank you very much for the Tip!!! I tried it and appears to solve the problem. Was just getting ready to go to the Dealer!
#2195 of 3012 Re: Steering noise [vince4]
Jan 12, 2006 (6:10 am)
I have a 97 Mercury Sable and have been plagued with similar "maoning, rubbing, hummy sound. Problem is it only seams to happen in the Morning or wet weather and then stops. I've complianed for years only to get a strange look as I can never get it to do it for diagnosis! Any tips advise directions would be appreciateD