Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

Reply

#2077 of 2996 2001 Mercury Sable - Check Engine Light by clind

Nov 09, 2005 (8:22 am)

Recently purchased an 01 Sable and the check engine was on. The check engine light would stay on for a couple days and then go out on its own. I also noticed that right before the light would come on, my fuel guage needle would shoot up to FULL (even if I only had a 1/4 tank of gas. Dianostics indicated it was a low fuel sensor, so the fuel pump/sender was replaced. About a week later I got in to start the car and noticed that again, my fuel need shot up to FULL (even though I only had a 1/2 tank gas). About 10 minutes later, the check engine light came back on. Scheduling to bring the car back in for service, but I know that diagnostics is going to bring up the same code. Anyone ever have this problem???????

Replies to this message:

alcan (Nov 09, 2005 3:25 pm)
- clind (Nov 11, 2005 7:43 am)

Reply

#2078 of 2996 Re: 2001 Mercury Sable - Check Engine Light [clind] by alcan

Nov 09, 2005 (3:25 pm)

Replying to: clind (Nov 09, 2005 8:22 am)

Which diagnostic code numbers were retrieved?

Replies to this message:

clind (Nov 11, 2005 7:43 am)

Reply

#2079 of 2996 Re: 97 Mercury sable Shifting & Electrical problems [andersonrickd] by bosuf

Nov 09, 2005 (9:46 pm)

Replying to: andersonrickd (Sep 11, 2005 12:55 am)

Did you ever find out what the problem was with your car i am having the same troubles with a 97 ford taurus? Your help would be greatly appreciated. thanks

Reply

#2080 of 2996 99 Taurus No power steering by paulor

Nov 09, 2005 (10:26 pm)

Power steering died on me, so I changed the pump, could it be that rack that is the problem, and if so how difficult is it to swap out??

Reply

#2081 of 2996 99 MERCURY SABLE TRANSMISSION TROUBLE? by rayq

Nov 10, 2005 (2:46 am)

Car runs fine for about 10 minutes then when I come to a stop it labors to get in gear then once it does car runs fine.Someone told me it could be the torque converter and if it is, does this mean I would need a new transmission.If not how big a job would a torque converter be,(Car has 108k). Thank You

Reply

#2082 of 2996 99 MERCURY SABLE TRANSMISSION PROBLEM? by rayq

Nov 09, 2005 (9:12 pm)

Car runs fine for about 10 minutes then when I come to a stop it labors to get in gear then once it does car runs fine.Someone told me it could be the torque converter and if it is, does this mean I would need a new transmission.If not how big a job would a torque converter be,(Car has 108k). Thank You

Reply

#2083 of 2996 Re: 99 Taurus... Many Problems... Please Help [vlm2] by steelers_chick

Nov 10, 2005 (4:29 pm)

Replying to: vlm2 (Sep 08, 2005 8:23 pm)

Hello. I just wanted to write real quick because my 99 Taurus is having the exact same problem! It started one morning, the heat was working fine....then all of a sudden, it got really cold. I noticed at that time that my car started to get really hot, then cool down. It did that a couple times, and it's never done it since. But instead of getting hot, when i start my car, it will get warm where it's suppose to be, but when i give it gas to take off, it gets cold. The heat doesn't work, only from the vent. And on top of that, somehow I'm losing power steering fluid and it squeeks when I turn my wheel to the left. I've tried changing the thermostat, flushing the radiator, but I don't know what else to do other than the heater core, and I've heard that's a job! Have you figured out what it was yet?? If you have, please let me know. And I'll do the same for you! Thank you.

Reply

#2084 of 2996 Re: 2001 Mercury Sable - Check Engine Light [alcan] by clind

Nov 11, 2005 (7:43 am)

Replying to: alcan (Nov 09, 2005 3:25 pm)

Code po 460 - Which indicated that Fuel level sensor. This was replaced, but the problem is still happening.
I was told that it may now be the "Flex Fuel Sensor"??? Does this seem right?

Reply

#2085 of 2996 92 Ford Taurus wiper problem by marc14

Nov 11, 2005 (4:48 pm)

MY wipers no longer function properly. I diagnosed that the problem is not the wiper motor but it is the pivot part attached to the motor and transmission arms. My problem is that I cannot figure out how to remove this pivot from the wiper motor. I removed every screw that I could possibly found on the pivot and it still will not come off. Iff anyone can help it would GREAT. Please email me ASAP. I can't drive without wipers especially with the snow coming.

Reply

#2086 of 2996 not so hard to do yourself by swschrad

Nov 11, 2005 (7:10 pm)

Replying to: fanoffords (Nov 08, 2005 9:11 pm)

did it with my exploder a year or so back, no big deal. you do need to get the right cleaner, throttle body cleaner... there is probably a coating inside the throttle body to smooth it, and carb cleaner can dissolve it. scafre up a little WD-40 or other light silicone, too. get lots of T-shirt rags and maybe a pipe cleaner or two.

you need to remove the plastic cover from the throttle cables, remove the intake hose from the air cleaner to the throttle body, and remove the IAC valve from on top the throttle body.

REALIZE that this car is not going to start for a while, nor run well, when you have finished, because of all the low-volatility cleaner that will drool into the intake.

that said... only one other caution. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES WHATEVER, absolutely by gollies DO NOT MONKEY with the THROTTLE PLATE! you will wreck it. no pressure on that plate. open it by pulling on the throttle, where the cables attach.

now, the procedure. shoot a little throttle body cleaner into the IAC channels atop the throttle body, open the throttle, and shoot a little cleaner in there and on the plate, coat it moderately well. go back to the IAC channels and spray again, then use pipe cleaners to get the goo dislodged, and spray it away. open the throttle again, spray some more cleaner, and use folded-over T-shirt rags (so no strings get caught on stuff) and light finger pressure to gently rub the grunge out of the throttle and off the throttle plate on both sides. I said LIGHT pressure, like you were smoothing over a baby's eyes.

keep it up with solvent until the rags come away clean. put it all together again. you're working with aluminum here, don't overtighten things... finger-tight and a quarter-turn extra MAX when putting the IAC valve back on. be sure to reconnect its electrical connector.

now, the starting. what I did with mine, I cranked 15-20 seconds, listened to a song all the way through on the ol' CD player, then cranked again. eventually the truck started, and your car should, too. it will run rough and smoky for a couple minutes, then you've gotten rid of all the solvent, and all should be well.

2996 messages, Last post on Dec 01, 2012 at 9:47 AM