Last post on Nov 22, 2013 at 9:45 PM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
What is this discussion about?
Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon
#1674 of 3012 Re: [mechair]
Jun 20, 2005 (5:58 pm)
You have removed the subframe already, right? If you haven't, the transaxle isn't going to come out. I dno't know which book you're referring to, but here's the R&R procedure:
Automatic Transaxle Assembly
Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
1. Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
2. Remove the battery and battery tray. Remove the engine air cleaner assembly.
3. Detach the transaxle harness and the Transmission Range (TR) sensor connectors.
4. Remove the shift cable actuator fitting (cable retaining clip) and one retaining nut and disconnect the shift cable from the shift cable bracket on the transaxle.
5. Disconnect the transaxle cooler lines.
6. For the 3.0L OHV engines, remove the four upper transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts and one transaxle-to-engine stud.
7. For the 3.0L and 3.4L (DOHC) engines, remove five transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts.
8. Install two engine lifting brackets on the engine assembly.
9. Install a suitable engine support device.
10. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
11. Loosen the transaxle oil pan retaining bolts and drain the transaxle fluid into a suitable container.
12. Remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
13. Remove both halfshafts.
14. Detach the four Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.
15. Remove three bolts and seven nuts securing the converter Y-pipe assembly and remove from the vehicle.
16. Detach the two starter motor connectors, then remove the starter.
17. Remove one bolt and one stud securing the starter motor and remove the starter motor from the transaxle.
18. For the OHV engine, remove one bolt and the transaxle housing cover.
19. Support the rack and pinion assembly using wire attached to the strut and spring assembly to hold it in position. Remove two rack and pinion assembly retaining nuts from the subframe.
20. Remove two lower control arm-to-ball joint retaining nuts and separate the lower control arms from the steering knuckles and ball joints.
21. Remove the retaining nuts from the front engine support insulators (mounts) at the subframe.
22. Remove the sway bar (stabilizer bar) link retaining nuts at each end of the sway bar and separate the links from the sway bar.
23. Remove the engine and transaxle support insulator through-bolts from the subframe.
24. Place a suitable transmission jack, using a suitable subframe adapter under the subframe and support the subframe.
25. Remove the four subframe-to-body retaining bolts. Carefully lower the subframe and set aside.
26. Place a suitable transmission jack using Adapter 014-00461 or equivalent, under the transaxle and support the transaxle assembly. Secure the transaxle to the transaxle adapter using a strap or chain.
27. For the OHV engine, remove one lower engine-to-transaxle bolt.
28. For the DOHC engine, remove the four lower engine-to-transaxle bolts.
29. Remove the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts.
30. Remove three bolts and two nuts securing the rear engine support to the transaxle and remove the rear engine support.
31. Remove one bolt from the right engine mount brace, then slowly lower the transaxle from the vehicle.
Flush the transaxle cooler lines thoroughly before installing the transaxle assembly.
32. If removed, place the transaxle assembly on a suitable transmission jack using Adapter 014-00461 or equivalent. Secure the transaxle to the transaxle adapter using a strap or chain.
33. Slowly raise the transaxle assembly into place. Align the torque converter studs with the appropriate holes in the flywheel and engage the transaxle housing to the engine dowel pins.
34. Install one bolt in the right engine mount brace and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
35. Install the rear engine support to the transaxle and install three bolts and two nuts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
36. Install the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts and tighten to 20-34 ft. lbs. (27-46 Nm).
37. For the OHV engine, install one lower transaxle-to-engine bolt and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
38. For the DOHC engine, install the four lower transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
39. Place the subframe on High Lift Transmission Jack 014-00210 or equivalent, using a suitable subframe adapter and raise the subframe into position.
40. Install the subframe insulators, if removed and loosely install four subframe-to-body bolts.
41. Install a 3/4 inch (19mm) outside diameter pipe or similar tool into the front left subframe and body alignment holes and align the holes. Slightly tighten the front left subframe-to-body bolt.
42. Repeat the subframe alignment procedure on the front right subframe and body alignment holes. Slightly tighten the right subframe-to-body bolt.
43. Check the left alignment holes again and adjust if necessary.
44. After the subframe alignment is complete, tighten all four subframe-to-body bolts to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm).
45. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the following:
* Engine and transaxle support insulator-to-subframe bolts to 65-87 ft. lbs. (88-118 Nm)
* Sway bar link-to-sway bushings and nuts to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm)
* Rack and pinion-to-subframe nuts to 84-113 ft. lbs. (113-133 Nm)
* Front engine support insulator-to-subframe nuts to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm)
* Ball joint-to-lower control arm nuts to 51-67 ft. lbs. (68-92 Nm), using new nuts
* For the OHV engine: transaxle housing cover bolt to 80-106 inch lbs. (9-12 Nm)
* Starter motor bolt and stud to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm)
* Converter Y-pipe three bolts and seven nuts to 26-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm)
* For the OHV engine: four upper transaxle-to-engine bolts and one upper transaxle-to-engine stud to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm)
* For the DOHC engine: five transaxle-to-engine bolts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm)
* Shift actuator cable fitting nut to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-26 Nm)
46. Connect both battery cables, negative cable last.
47. If the transaxle is empty of transaxle fluid, add several quarts of MERCON or equivalent transaxle fluid to the transaxle.
48. Start the engine and continue to fill the transaxle until the correct level is reached. Check for leaks and proper operation.
Whenever the vehicles subframe is removed or lowered, the wheel alignment should be checked.
49. Check the front end alignment.
50. Road test the vehicle and check the transaxle for proper operation.
Jun 21, 2005 (5:34 pm)
I have a 97 Sable that has been very well maintained, the check eng. light came on and I got the code P1744,Tork converter system,the check eng. went off so I relaxed, well maybe to soon that is. It shifts into gear but wont go.into......R. or D,2,1. I would like to fix it myself (save as much $ as possible) if it is fixable, I've never had any problems w/trans. on this car. I've spoken to several shops and they all tell me it needs to be repaired? I cant believe thats the correct answer without looking at it. Could you please direct me in the correct dir.as to what the code really means and how I can fix it if it is fixable? Thank you.
#1676 of 3012 Hood latch cable snapped
Jun 22, 2005 (12:13 pm)
My 1998 Ford Taurus hood release cable broke somewhere under the hood. Maybe even at the latch itself. Can't fix it without opening the hood. How can I open the hood without the hood release cable?
Please help. Has this happened to anyone else?
#1677 of 3012 signal flasher
Jun 23, 2005 (5:28 pm)
im having trouble locating the flasher on my 1996 Ford Taurus sw. any help would be appriciated.
#1678 of 3012 Wiper transmission replaced
Jun 24, 2005 (3:36 am)
I had the wiper transmission replaced yesterday at a Ford dealership. I was quite surprised about the price.... 360$ labour cost (4 hours) and 257$ for the parts. Grand total for replacing the wiper transmission is 709$ including taxes. For me this looks not ok, it can't be that the wiper transmission is worse 5% of a new Ford Taurus. Any idea how this cost in the average?
Thanks for any feedback
#1679 of 3012 1997 Taurus Front sway bar end links and struts
Jun 24, 2005 (6:08 pm)
Hi! I just had my '97 Taurus at the dealer's for state inspection. Was told that I need to have replaced the front sway bar end links and both front struts. Cost is estimated at at least $500. Car has only 72,000 miles on it. While I know no one can answer me 100%, I'm interested in your opinions: Should I have it fixed? Does it really need it? Is it dangerous if I don't fix it? Should I just trade it in and get a newer car? I did just put $500 into it for rotors and a wheel cylinder.
This car has had a problem with a shake or shimmy since the day I got it over 6 years ago. Previous dealer tried everything: replaced right front half axle, alignment (which then they said they couldn't complete because they needed to grind down the strut towers-at only 29,000 miles?!) It's fixed for a while and then it comes back.
I like the car, but is it reaching the point where it's going to be one thing after another?
#1680 of 3012 Re: 1997 Taurus Front sway bar end links and struts [millege1]
Jun 25, 2005 (12:42 pm)
My cousin runs Tauri over 300,000 miles consistently, and he's on his third one. His state inspection (Utah) has never raised an issue about this stuff. I think your car may have been damaged prior to your ownership. I'd trade it.
#1681 of 3012 Re: 1997 Taurus Front sway bar end links and struts [nvbanker]
Jun 25, 2005 (2:03 pm)
Thanks for the advice! I've had the feeling that it was damaged since 3 months after I bought it. Still, it's been a good car. I should have known better when, one time I took it to the dealer I bought it from with the same old complaint about the shakes and they told me it was because of all the "Pennsylvania potholes." Yeah, right.
#1682 of 3012 1992 Ford Taurus Rear Brake Problem
Jun 25, 2005 (3:36 pm)
The rear driver side rear brake on my 92 Ford Taurus GL overheated and melted the hub cab.The ABS light came on and would not go out. My brakes became spongy and I eventually had to replace the caliper, pad and rotor. I tried to bleed the brakes on all four wheels but I could not get any fluid (or vacuum) on the rear calipers. I replaced the rear brake proportioning valve, but nothing changed. I have a one-man vacuum pump for brakes, but when I hook it up to the bleeder valve in the rear, I can not get the pressure to come up( like I can on the front calipers).It's as though there is a leak somewhere. The ABS light is still on.
Are talking about a bad master cylinder ( or is there something called an ABS pump on the Taurus)?
Could it be the brake booster?
Can the ABS master cylinder be replaced by a home mechanic?
#1683 of 3012 2000 Taurus - Problem w/ New OEM Brakes
Jun 25, 2005 (6:15 pm)
Hello everyone. I just had my front brake pads replaced today and the rear drums adjusted/cleaned. The new pads are supposedly Motorcraft OEM pads. The problem that I am having is that the brake pedal travel has not decreased since they've been replaced AND the brakes are slow to stop the car. I had a close call today and called the shop and they said that Motorcraft parts use a "harder ceramic" material that needs about 100 miles of wear-in before they work well.
Is this really the case, or am I getting the runaround?
Thanks for any help!