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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair

2935 messages,  Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 7:49 AM

You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon


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#1665 of 2935
1992 mercury sable missing & check engine light by raney
Jun 19, 2005 (1:24 pm)
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I just had both heads reworked and R&R water pump, spark plugs&wires, cap & rotor on mom's car after she ran it hot and blew both head gaskets. I did all the installation myself.
 
The engine has a slight miss at idle but cuts out off and on at high speed. It is like the engine dies and restarts in an instant. The "check engine" light comes on after about 5 minutes of highway travel but clears when engine is turned off.
 
I need to know why the check light is coming to hopefully troubleshoot. Any ideas?
How can I determine why th eligh tis coming on?
 
All hoses appear to be on and I can't find any loose connections
#1666 of 2935
Re: 1992 mercury sable missing & check engine light [raney] by alcan
Jun 20, 2005 (1:18 am)
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Replying to: raney (Jun 19, 2005 1:24 pm)

Here's how:
 
http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
#1667 of 2935
Re: 1998 Sable Shift Problem [jamann] by dpookie
Jun 20, 2005 (5:15 am)
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Replying to: jamann (Jun 17, 2005 6:13 am)

6/20/05
Hello, I am having the same problem with my 1995 Mercury Sable as of this morning. I would like to know what is the cause for this problem? And is this a expensive repair also? Please update me about this situation.
dpookie37yahoo.com
Thanks
#1668 of 2935
Re: [guitarzan] by mechair
Jun 20, 2005 (5:33 am)
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Replying to: guitarzan (Jul 03, 1999 1:58 pm)

I am trying to remove the transmission of my 98 taurus the book says it will drop out the bottom after separating it from the engine, but it hits on the frame in the left wheel well and will not clear it. anyone know how to remove this thing?
#1669 of 2935
98 ford taurus transmission by zosos
Jun 20, 2005 (11:39 am)
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Just need some info on 98 ford taurus transmission. I am planning on replacing the shift c solenoid and the torque converter clutch solenoid. The reason I am doing this is because I had a mechanic hook the OBD II diagnostic computer to it because I had the service engine soon light come one. The codes returned stated that I have problems in this part of the transmission. What does it take to replace these solenoids because right now the overdrive does not work and at idle in drive while stopped, it seems to be engaging and disengaging.
#1670 of 2935
Radiator replaced by mkj2
Jun 20, 2005 (12:58 pm)
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I have a quick question,i have been quoted $295 to have the radiator replaced on my 92 taurus wagon.This price includes labor,is this reasonable?
#1671 of 2935
Re: couple ideas [Mr_Shiftright] by smcgrath
Jun 20, 2005 (3:58 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jun 18, 2005 7:15 pm)

I took your suggestions, inflated the tires about 2 lb. above current pressure. Drove about 25 miles today, now climbing to 17.6 mpg. Thanks!!!
#1672 of 2935
Re: couple ideas [smcgrath] by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Jun 20, 2005 (4:01 pm)
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Replying to: smcgrath (Jun 20, 2005 3:58 pm)

Quick more air! more air! (just kidding that was a joke).
#1673 of 2935
Re: Radiator replaced [mkj2] by isellhondas
Jun 20, 2005 (5:24 pm)
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Replying to: mkj2 (Jun 20, 2005 12:58 pm)

The short answer is yes. I would have guessed higher.
#1674 of 2935
Re: [mechair] by alcan
Jun 20, 2005 (5:58 pm)
Reply

Replying to: mechair (Jun 20, 2005 5:33 am)

You have removed the subframe already, right? If you haven't, the transaxle isn't going to come out. I dno't know which book you're referring to, but here's the R&R procedure:
 
Automatic Transaxle Assembly
Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide
 
To remove:
   1. Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
   2. Remove the battery and battery tray. Remove the engine air cleaner assembly.
   3. Detach the transaxle harness and the Transmission Range (TR) sensor connectors.
   4. Remove the shift cable actuator fitting (cable retaining clip) and one retaining nut and disconnect the shift cable from the shift cable bracket on the transaxle.
   5. Disconnect the transaxle cooler lines.
   6. For the 3.0L OHV engines, remove the four upper transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts and one transaxle-to-engine stud.
   7. For the 3.0L and 3.4L (DOHC) engines, remove five transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts.
   8. Install two engine lifting brackets on the engine assembly.
   9. Install a suitable engine support device.
  10. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  11. Loosen the transaxle oil pan retaining bolts and drain the transaxle fluid into a suitable container.
  12. Remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
  13. Remove both halfshafts.
  14. Detach the four Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.
  15. Remove three bolts and seven nuts securing the converter Y-pipe assembly and remove from the vehicle.
  16. Detach the two starter motor connectors, then remove the starter.
  17. Remove one bolt and one stud securing the starter motor and remove the starter motor from the transaxle.
  18. For the OHV engine, remove one bolt and the transaxle housing cover.
  19. Support the rack and pinion assembly using wire attached to the strut and spring assembly to hold it in position. Remove two rack and pinion assembly retaining nuts from the subframe.
  20. Remove two lower control arm-to-ball joint retaining nuts and separate the lower control arms from the steering knuckles and ball joints.
  21. Remove the retaining nuts from the front engine support insulators (mounts) at the subframe.
  22. Remove the sway bar (stabilizer bar) link retaining nuts at each end of the sway bar and separate the links from the sway bar.
  23. Remove the engine and transaxle support insulator through-bolts from the subframe.
  24. Place a suitable transmission jack, using a suitable subframe adapter under the subframe and support the subframe.
  25. Remove the four subframe-to-body retaining bolts. Carefully lower the subframe and set aside.
  26. Place a suitable transmission jack using Adapter 014-00461 or equivalent, under the transaxle and support the transaxle assembly. Secure the transaxle to the transaxle adapter using a strap or chain.
  27. For the OHV engine, remove one lower engine-to-transaxle bolt.
  28. For the DOHC engine, remove the four lower engine-to-transaxle bolts.
  29. Remove the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts.
  30. Remove three bolts and two nuts securing the rear engine support to the transaxle and remove the rear engine support.
  31. Remove one bolt from the right engine mount brace, then slowly lower the transaxle from the vehicle.
 
To install:
Flush the transaxle cooler lines thoroughly before installing the transaxle assembly.
  32. If removed, place the transaxle assembly on a suitable transmission jack using Adapter 014-00461 or equivalent. Secure the transaxle to the transaxle adapter using a strap or chain.
  33. Slowly raise the transaxle assembly into place. Align the torque converter studs with the appropriate holes in the flywheel and engage the transaxle housing to the engine dowel pins.
  34. Install one bolt in the right engine mount brace and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
  35. Install the rear engine support to the transaxle and install three bolts and two nuts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
  36. Install the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts and tighten to 20-34 ft. lbs. (27-46 Nm).
  37. For the OHV engine, install one lower transaxle-to-engine bolt and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
  38. For the DOHC engine, install the four lower transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
  39. Place the subframe on High Lift Transmission Jack 014-00210 or equivalent, using a suitable subframe adapter and raise the subframe into position.
  40. Install the subframe insulators, if removed and loosely install four subframe-to-body bolts.
  41. Install a 3/4 inch (19mm) outside diameter pipe or similar tool into the front left subframe and body alignment holes and align the holes. Slightly tighten the front left subframe-to-body bolt.
  42. Repeat the subframe alignment procedure on the front right subframe and body alignment holes. Slightly tighten the right subframe-to-body bolt.
  43. Check the left alignment holes again and adjust if necessary.
  44. After the subframe alignment is complete, tighten all four subframe-to-body bolts to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm).
  45. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the following:
          * Engine and transaxle support insulator-to-subframe bolts to 65-87 ft. lbs. (88-118 Nm)
          * Sway bar link-to-sway bushings and nuts to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm)
          * Rack and pinion-to-subframe nuts to 84-113 ft. lbs. (113-133 Nm)
          * Front engine support insulator-to-subframe nuts to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm)
          * Ball joint-to-lower control arm nuts to 51-67 ft. lbs. (68-92 Nm), using new nuts
          * For the OHV engine: transaxle housing cover bolt to 80-106 inch lbs. (9-12 Nm)
          * Starter motor bolt and stud to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm)
          * Converter Y-pipe three bolts and seven nuts to 26-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm)
          * For the OHV engine: four upper transaxle-to-engine bolts and one upper transaxle-to-engine stud to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm)
          * For the DOHC engine: five transaxle-to-engine bolts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm)
          * Shift actuator cable fitting nut to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-26 Nm)
  46. Connect both battery cables, negative cable last.
  47. If the transaxle is empty of transaxle fluid, add several quarts of MERCON or equivalent transaxle fluid to the transaxle.
  48. Start the engine and continue to fill the transaxle until the correct level is reached. Check for leaks and proper operation.
 
Whenever the vehicles subframe is removed or lowered, the wheel alignment should be checked.
 
  49. Check the front end alignment.
  50. Road test the vehicle and check the transaxle for proper operation.

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