Last post on Nov 22, 2013 at 9:45 PM
You are in the Ford Taurus/Mercury Sable
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Ford Taurus, Mercury Sable, Sedan, Wagon
#1550 of 3012 Re: 1999 Taurus Power steering problem [denon12345]
Apr 26, 2005 (6:01 am)
#817 of 1549 Power steering problem by denon12345 Mar 30, 2003 (8:00 pm)
Have a 1999 Ford Tauras, has about 62000km. The problem is when the car is shut off the power sterring fluid backup in to the container. But when the car starts up it sucks it all back through. If anyone know any idea what it could be, it would be very helpful.
denon: Two years late but I also have the same problem on the exact same car.
I had this problem with the old pump and changed the pump yesterday and the SAME thing is happening.
The car has 139k miles and the fluid smelled burnt and was low.
Still have the same whining noise also WITH THE NEW PUMP!
Did you ever find out what the problem was?
#1551 of 3012 Re: '98 ohv problems [nuwisha]
Apr 29, 2005 (2:43 pm)
I was wondering if you've found anything out, I've been having similar problems with my 1996 , I've noticed that it is linked to the car running hot, while the car is cool it runs great once it's hot...The speedomoter stops working and the engine doesn't want to respond to the accelerator. It feels like it gets stuck in gear sometimes and the power steering cuts in and out. But Like I Said only when it gets hot, when It starts acting up I turn the heat on high and it stops after a few minutes. No problems with the lights yet.. Feel free to respod to my email directly or post here, my email is jryskigmail.com thanks.
#1552 of 3012 Help with strange sound on 2001 Taurus at 50 mph
May 02, 2005 (7:29 am)
I have a 2001 Ford Taurus with 75,000 miles. The other day while accelerating to 50 MPH a strange noise sounded like it was coming from under the hood near the drivers left side. Now when I drive between 50-60 MPH the sound is there, like a whirring or loud humming sound. It's there faintly at lower speeds as well, but very noticable between 50-60 MPH. Does anyone have ideas what this sound could be? I would greatly appreciate any thoughts or comments on this problem as I don't have a clue what the problem could be.
#1553 of 3012 1989 Taurus SHO clutch
May 02, 2005 (8:50 pm)
Help, I need to put a clutch in my daughters car, an 89 Taurus SHO. I have had experience replacing clutches in Honda, Mazda and Geo, but this is quite different. I have the tools and a shop. Just need advise on how to pull the trans. Has anyone been in my shoes?
#1554 of 3012 Re: 1989 Taurus SHO clutch [joeg3]
May 03, 2005 (2:01 am)
They're a treat. The subframe has to come out first. Here's the routine, had to break it into 2 posts:
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Wedge a 7 in. (178mm) block of wood under the clutch pedal to hold the pedal up beyond it's normal position.
Remove the air cleaner hose.
Grasp the clutch cable and pull it forward, disconnecting it from the clutch release shaft assembly.
Disconnect the clutch cable casing from the rib on top of the transaxle case.
Install engine lifting eyes.
Tie up the wiring harness and power steering cooler hoses.
Disconnect the speedometer cable and speed sensor wire.
Support the engine using a suitable engine support fixture.
Raise the vehicle and support it safely. Remove the front wheel and tire assemblies.
Remove the nut and bolt retaining the lower control arm ball joint to the steering knuckle assembly. Discard the removed nut and bolt. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side.
Using a suitable halfshaft remover, pry the lower control arm away from the knuckle.
Be careful not to damage or cut the ball joint boot.
Remove the upper nut from the stabilizer bar and separate the stabilizer bar from the knuckle.
Remove the tie rod nut and separate the tie rod end from the knuckle.
Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor.
Remove the catalytic converter assembly.
Disconnect the power steering cooler from the subframe and place it aside.
Disconnect the battery cable bracket from the subframe.
Using a suitable prybar, pry the left inboard CV-joint assembly from the transaxle. Install a plug into the seal to prevent fluid leakage. Remove the CV-joint from the transaxle by grasping the left steering knuckle and swinging the knuckle and halfshaft outward from the transaxle. Repeat the procedure on the right side.
If the CV-joint assembly cannot be pried from the transaxle, insert a suitable tool through the left side and tap the joint out. The tool can be used from either side of the transaxle.
Support the halfshaft assembly with wire in a near level position to prevent damage to the assembly during the remaining operations. Repeat the procedure on the opposite side.
Remove the retaining bolts from the center support bearing and remove the right halfshaft from the transaxle.
Remove the 2 steering gear retaining nuts from the subframe. Support the steering gear by wiring up the tie rod ends to the coil springs.
Remove the transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts.
Unfasten the shift mechanism stabilizer bar-to-transaxle retaining bolt. Remove the shift rod-to-shift shaft retaining nut and bolt, then remove the rods from the transaxle.
Remove the engine mount bolts.
Position jacks under the body mount positions and remove the 4 bolts, lower the subframe and position it aside.
Remove the starter mounting bolts, then remove the starter motor assembly.
Remove the left engine vibration dampener lower bracket.
Using a small screwdriver, remove the backup light switch connector from the transaxle backup light switch, located on top of the transaxle.
Position a suitable support jack and adapter under the transaxle.
Lower the transaxle, remove it from the engine and lower it from the vehicle.
Loosen the six clutch pressure plate cover retaining bolts evenly to release the spring tension gradually, and to avoid distorting the cover. If the same clutch pressure plate and cover are to be installed, mark the cover and the flywheel so the pressure plate can be installed in its original position.
Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc from the flywheel.
Inspect the flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing and the clutch fork for wear. Replace parts as required. If the flywheel shows any signs of overheating (blue discoloration) or if it is badly grooved or scored, it should be refaced or replaced
#1555 of 3012 Re: 1989 Taurus SHO clutch [joeg3]
May 03, 2005 (2:11 am)
Avoid touching the clutch disc face, dropping parts or contaminating parts with oil or grease.
The clutch disc must be assembled so that the stamped notation is facing toward the engine. The three flywheel-to-clutch pressure plate dowels must be properly aligned with the clutch pressure plate. (Bent, damaged or missing dowels must be replaced.)
Clean the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces thoroughly.
Position the disc and pressure plate on the flywheel, then insert the cover retaining bolts, but do not tighten them at this time.
Align the clutch disc using Clutch Arbor/Aligner Tool T81P-7550-A or equivalent, inserted in the crankshaft. To avoid clutch pressure plate cover distortion, alternately tighten the cover bolts until the cover is fully seated, then tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm) for 1993-95 vehicles. For 1986-92 vehicles, alternately tighten the cover bolts to 12-24 ft. lbs. (16-33 Nm). Remove the alignment tool.
Raise the transaxle into position. Engage the input shaft spline into the clutch disc and work the transaxle onto the dowel sleeves. Make sure the transaxle assembly is flush with the rear face of the engine before installation of the retaining bolts.
Install the engine to transaxle retaining bolts. Tighten to 28-31 ft. lbs. (38-42 Nm).
Engage the backup light switch electrical connector.
Install the starter motor. Tighten the retaining bolts to 30-40 ft. lbs. (41-54 Nm).
Using jacks, position the subframe and raise it into position. Install the 4 bolts and tighten to 65-85 ft. lbs. (88-115 Nm).
Install the left vibration dampener lower bracket.
Install the engine mount bolts and tighten to 40-55 ft. lbs. (54-75 Nm).
Connect the shift cables to the transaxle.
Install the engine to transaxle bolts and tighten to 28-31 ft. lbs. (38-42 Nm).
Install the steering gear retaining nuts and tighten to 85-100 ft. lbs. (115-135 Nm).
Install the center support bearing retaining bolts and tighten to 85-100 ft. lbs. (115-135 Nm).
Install the right halfshaft into the transaxle.
Install the left inboard CV-joint assembly into the transaxle.
Connect the battery cable bracket to the subframe.
Connect the power steering cooler to the subframe.
Position the catalytic converter, then install retaining bolts and tighten to 25-34 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).
Connect the heated oxygen sensor.
Install the tie rod end in the knuckle and the tie rod retaining nut. Tighten to 35-47 ft. lbs. (47-64 Nm).
Position the stabilizer bar to the knuckle, then install the nut.
Install the lower control arm ball joint to steering knuckle assembly. Install a new retaining nut and bolt, then tighten to 37-44 ft. lbs. (50-60 Nm).
Install the wheel and tire assemblies.
Apply Pipe Sealant with TeflonŽ D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent, to the transaxle fill plug threads, in a clockwise direction, then check the transaxle fluid level. Add the correct type of fluid (Motorcraft MERCONŽ Multi-Purpose Automatic Transmission Fluid or equivalent) to the bottom of the fill plug hole, then install the fill plug.
Carefully lower the vehicle.
Remove the engine support tool.
Using a crows foot wrench, install the speedometer cable. Connect the speedometer cable and speed sensor wire.
Remove the engine lifting eyes.
Connect the clutch cable to the clutch release lever.
Install the air cleaner hose, then remove the wood block from the clutch pedal.
Connect the negative battery cable, then check the transaxle for fluid leaks.
#1556 of 3012 now I aks you, where else
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
May 03, 2005 (7:44 am)
can you get service like THAT?!!
Thanks Al for that information.
#1557 of 3012 Re: now I aks you, where else [Mr_Shiftright]
May 03, 2005 (9:48 am)
No problem, just a quick copy n' paste.
#1558 of 3012 Chilton or Haynes manual for >01?
May 03, 2005 (10:08 am)
Does anyone know if Chilton or Haynes will ever publish a manual for the end of the run of the Taurus and Sable? The newest Haynes manual only goes to 2001 and Chilton goes only to 1999 (!).
I have a 2002 Sable Wagon and although I know changes are minimal between 02-present and the earlier models, I'd prefer to have the right year on the DIY repair manual I buy for my car. (plus there are some subtle differences esp with the sorta stuff I'd likely do myself)
May 05, 2005 (6:09 am)
For all of those that were following by chirping and dieing engine issue, I fainlly gave up and took it into the dealer.
There WAS an engine code, but it never threw the SES light.
I didn't get the exact error message from the service crew, but it pointed at the Injector Driver module. They replaced it and some other piece that was "required" to be replaced when they replace that module, and at my request replaced the spark plugs, tire rotation (with which I now have a steering vibration at 60mph), and a good ole lube/oil/filter. Nearly $1000 later, the car runs fine, and the chirping is gone.
Thanks all for your ideas!